1999 UZJ100 intermittent crank, no start

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Joined
May 6, 2026
Threads
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Messages
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Location
Norway
Hey,
i have a 1999 UZJ100 with around 348000km that suddenly has intermittent starting issues. Cranks just fine but no sign of life. Everytime this has happened i have eventually connected my diagnostic tool, and the car starts right up first try after connecting it. After it starts up it runs absolutely fine until its been sitting a few hours and the problem is back. Have tried with different keys and checked the EFI fuse and relay, this all looks to work as it should. You can clearly hear/feel the relay click when ignition goes on, and the security light comes off when the key is inserted, and stays off when cranking. The Engine light and atf-temp light comes on when i turn the key. Looking at the live data i cant see any clear issues, all sensor inputs except from the bank 2 sensor 2 O2 sensor and maybe the IAT sensor shows expected values. PNP works as it should when checking with the diagnostic tool. I am pretty sure at least one of second O2 sensors is bad since this always shows 0V, and the IAT read 36 degrees celsius after cranking for 5 seconds while the outside temps where about 6. After driving around and getting it up to temp the IAT showed 48 degrees celsius. Also tested the fuel pump with the diagnostic tool when having starting problems and it runs fine. I have looked at a few threads and seen some of the common issues, especially the EFI realy/fuse issue. But from what i can see all of these either get fault codes, flashing security light while cranking, no CEL and ATF-temp light when turning the key, melting plastic in fusebox or other signs that mine is not showing. Anyone have any suggestions to what can cause this?

After buying the car 5 months ago i have done all of the below related to the engine:
Replaced timing belt, thermostat and water pump.
Replaced all coils and plugs.
Replaced battery.
Replaced oil, oil-filter and air filter.
Replaced the fuel tank, fuel filler neck, fuel filter, and all fuel lines.
Replaced belt, pulleys, fan bracket and tensioner.
replaced the radiator.

The car needed a lot of work when i bought it 5 months ago, it had been sitting since 2015 when someone else started taking it apart for a respray but never finished it. I have used a tonn of time and money on it and love the car. Other than the issue im having now there is a vibrations that gets bad when going above 85km/h that im gonna look at next. Also feel like it looks really tall in the rear vs. the front. Seller said it had a 40mm OME lift on it, from what i can see the rear springs and front shocks are OME, but rear shocks are Koni. Unsure if the torsion bars are oem or not, i have adjusted these so theres about 60mm dropp in the front. But still looks way to tall in the rear. Inputs on this would alse be appreciated.

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Did the EFI fuse show any signs of heat? The EFI fuse issue will not throw a code or blink the security light. And it may not necessarily produce any melted plastic.

These trucks are supposed to have a stink bug stance to them. Takes a bit to get used to.
 
Did the EFI fuse show any signs of heat? The EFI fuse issue will not throw a code or blink the security light. And it may not necessarily produce any melted plastic.

These trucks are supposed to have a stink bug stance to them. Takes a bit to get used to.
I could not see any sign of heat at the fuse no. replaced the fuse and it felt tight. I saw someone wrote that their CEL and ATF-heat light would not come on when turning the key while having this problem. mine does come on and if i remember correctly the CEL glows when cranking too.

Do you know if there is a way to temporary bypass the fuse and relay for testing? think i saw someone adding a wire straight from the battery to one of the pins of the relay.
 
Yes, to pin F I believe on the relay harness
 
Check this out. Here's a complete fix, if the EFI fuse holder is the issue. POST
 
Okay, i will try bypassing the relay circuit. thanks for the help!
If you use the "wire from postive battery to F slot" option to crank vehicle, make sure to take it out when not running or battery will run down.
 
I don't see fuel pump R&R. But yet: tank, filter, neck and line. Which those (except filter) R&R, are unusual to R&R.

Next time crank no start. Pull fuel line off fuel filter. If fuel, doesn't squirt out with some pressure, it a likely fuel starvation issue. FSM states check fuel pump circuit. I find with your symptoms and factory or non OEM fuel pump. OEM fuel usually needed.
 
I don't see fuel pump R&R. But yet: tank, filter, neck and line. Which those (except filter) R&R, are unusual to R&R.

Next time crank no start. Pull fuel line off fuel filter. If fuel, doesn't squirt out with some pressure, it a likely fuel starvation issue. FSM states check fuel pump circuit. I find with your symptoms and factory or non OEM fuel pump. OEM fuel usually needed.
This morning i went out too start it up, and it would not start. connected the diagnostic tool, and it miraculously started right away. After sitting for 5 hours after this it would not start again. This time it would not start after connecting the diagnostic tool like all the previous times. Ran the pump through the diagnostic tool and, it made some noise but was clearly not running ass it should. Did some measuring and everything had power, also tried the relay/fuse bypass wire and having the fuel hose of the fuel filter. Could not get the fuel pump to run. Eventually tried setting power directly to the fuel pump through the BC1 connector, and still did not run.

Found a GSS342 pump at a local shop which fit exactly like the oem pump in the pump hanger, only had to swap out the connector since the GSS342 use wider pins. Tested the new pump with the hose off of the fuel filter and it shot a stream across the engine bay. After this the car started right up. Pretty sure the pump was factory, decided not to replace it when doing the fuel tank since i didn't think of replacing it before i was reinstalling everything and didn't want too wait for a new one. The fuel tank, lines and neck was replaced because of rust holes.

I'm probably gonna order a new pump to eventually replace this one, since this one is from a "budget" store and is basically an unbranded pump with unknown origin. Guessing denso is the best option? Local dealer prices have become so insane that buying from them is not an option.
 
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