1999 LX - Did I pay too much? (1 Viewer)

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Apr 6, 2021
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Calgary, AB, Canada
99lx1.MP.jpg
99lx2.jpg


PURCHASE PRICE: 8000CDN\6350USD for a rusty (weirdly the body is worse than the undercarridge) 280KM\173k MILES local (Alberta, Canada) Hundy. Factory Electric Rear Locker. Near everything works, because the column and cruise are broken.

Clean bill of health mechanically/all fluids changed/checked. (~$100 not sure exact price.)
T-belt, water pump, pulleys done before purchase at 279KM.
Swaybar Bushings+150CDN\119USD
AHC is "flushed" and operating within spec.
Duratracs - 1400CDN\1100USD - I chose them because 1) they were on sale, although still pretty expensive. and 2) figured I like the aggressive look, and they're supposedly good in the snow, which we have a lot of.

So about +/- $9500CDN\7550USD so far for a mechanically sound (not perfect obviously) 100 with the brand new tires of my choice.

BUT! The RUST you scream. Ya I know. Wait til you see the drivers side. Reminiscent of a certain tangy cheese. Is it even worth fixing a bad body? It's eating all 4 corners at least. I also can't spend any more on it for a few months. Let me know what you think. Am I cruising in style or losing by miles?
 
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Can't say. Because LXs are rare as hell to find used in Canada. But usually they're always cheaper than US LXs because Canada alone takes a heavy toll on vehicles. If its not salt, its rock chips and freezing -40c winters that take a toll on the drivetrain.

100s were dirt cheap in Canada until 2018 or so. I'm talking Canadians and exporters bought slighty rusty 2006/07s LX470s with under 250k kms for $10k. Thats why you don't find very many now in Canada. Prices are all over the place for a 100 series in Canada.

Your A pillar is toast from a s***ty botched windshield repair. Your ECUs and fuse boxes are next.

Don't be shy, lets see up its skirt and see all the rest of the rust.
 
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ramangain

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It is IMPOSSIBLE to overpay for an LX in Canada with an engine block heater.

If they all came with the engine block heater, my statement still stands.
 
Joined
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Can't say. Because LXs are rare as hell to find used in Canada. But usually they're always cheaper than US LXs because Canada alone takes a heavy toll on vehicles. If its not salt, its rock chips and freezing -40c winters that take a toll on the drivetrain.

100s were dirt cheap in Canada until 2018 or so. I'm talking Canadians and exporters bought slighty rusty 2006/07s LX470s with under 250k kms for $10k. Thats why you don't find very many now in Canada. Prices are all over the place for a 100 series in Canada.

Your A pillar is toast from a s***ty botched windshield repair. Your ECUs and fuse boxes are next.

Don't be shy, lets see up its skirt and see all the rest of the rust.
I'll send some more pics when I get a chance with some decent lighting.

By A pillar being toast what exactly do you mean? Is it unrepairable?

I should note I bought it last year in June, and been DDing it since. No problems so far. We had a gnarly stretch of -45 this year and it never missed a beat.
 
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It is IMPOSSIBLE to overpay for an LX in Canada with an engine block heater.

If they all came with the engine block heater, my statement still stands.
I haven't even looked if I have a block heater, but even in the coldest part of winter here I didn't need it, started every time. My wife's 2010 outback needed a boost but not the LX
 

AlpineAccess

Overlanding is an expensive word for car camping.
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Ya sorry I only took the good side photos. If you look closely the logo on the hatch is rusting, and there's bubbles at the wheel wells. The drivers side has a hole about 3 inches by 2 inches.

Sounds like quite a bit has started. Still a good daily driver if you live in the salt belt.
 
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What's the plug for then?

What's the plug for then?
Probably the block heater, but haven't confirmed that it works. Why is it a particularly desirable thing anyway? Just curious as personally I've never bothered with them on gas vehicles, only diesels. My cars have always started regardless of the temp, am I missing the point?
 
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What's the plug for then?
Its the world's only plug in hybrid 100 series.

The rust on the a pillar is from the windshield installer using screws not rivets. It then caused water to rust out your a-pillar. You can also see how mangled the trim is. If the rust looks like that, it most likely is enough to let water in, which leads directly to a passenger fuse block and ecus.
 
Joined
Dec 19, 2020
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Ottawa
View attachment 2637720View attachment 2637721

PURCHASE PRICE: 8000CDN\6350USD for a rusty (weirdly the body is worse than the undercarridge) 280KM\173k MILES local (Alberta, Canada) Hundy. Factory Electric Rear Locker. Near everything works, because the column and cruise are broken.

Clean bill of health mechanically/all fluids changed/checked. (~$100 not sure exact price.)
T-belt, water pump, pulleys done before purchase at 279KM.
Swaybar Bushings+150CDN\119USD
AHC is "flushed" and operating within spec.
Duratracs - 1400CDN\1100USD - I chose them because 1) they were on sale, although still pretty expensive. and 2) figured I like the aggressive look, and they're supposedly good in the snow, which we have a lot of.

So about +/- $9500CDN\7550USD so far for a mechanically sound (not perfect obviously) 100 with the brand new tires of my choice.

BUT! The RUST you scream. Ya I know. Wait til you see the drivers side. Reminiscent of a certain tangy cheese. Is it even worth fixing a bad body? It's eating all 4 corners at least. I also can't spend any more on it for a few months. Let me know what you think. Am I cruising in style or losing by miles?
I think you did ok. I got mine a month ago. 2002 with 233k miles but with zero rust and a perfect service history from new at Lexus. Everything works on it. All manuals etc. So far replaced a headlight that had a crack and bought the latest navigation DVD at the dealer. Paid USD 9500 and got it shipped to Ottawa. Best car I have ever owned.

CR
 
Joined
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Messages
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Calgary, AB, Canada
I think you did ok. I got mine a month ago. 2002 with 233k miles but with zero rust and a perfect service history from new at Lexus. Everything works on it. All manuals etc. So far replaced a headlight that had a crack and bought the latest navigation DVD at the dealer. Paid USD 9500 and got it shipped to Ottawa. Best car I have ever owned.

CR
Ya I figure for what I spent it still leaves some room for body repairs. I may patch it up and do a bedliner paintjob, I haven't decided.
 
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Feb 2, 2021
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Louisville, KY
I think you did ok. I got mine a month ago. 2002 with 233k miles but with zero rust and a perfect service history from new at Lexus. Everything works on it. All manuals etc. So far replaced a headlight that had a crack and bought the latest navigation DVD at the dealer. Paid USD 9500 and got it shipped to Ottawa. Best car I have ever owned.

CR
Denver - Meet your Lexus's Kentucky Cousin... I purchased the exact same trucks (1998 with 237k on the clock). Mine is the same rare color (Smokey Topaz Micah). I had similar rust issues. I can talk rust all day long! Mine was mainly on the undercarriage and four corners. Rust is the enemy... get rid of it where you can, cut it, sand it, paint it. Get rid of it! That being said here is my rig. The body panels are done with truck bed liner.



IMG-0736.jpg


I started at one end and went completely through mine. There are some good things about a rusty LX - it will never be "cherry" so you can have some fun. I would have never painted body molding on a pristine LC or LX, I just wouldn't! Once you've been liberated by the rust... you can get to playing. I'm so glad I used the bed liner... and the results are amazing!

IMG_0583.jpg


IMG_0592.jpg

CUT IT OUT! The great (or really bad thing) about the LX is body panels cover most of the spots that are prone to rust. I shaved 2" off the bottom of the rear passenger side corner, wedged in some foam core behind for support and through in some fiberglass. I'm eventually mounting a ladder here so the ruff body work doesn't matter.

83992.jpg

Again - not perfect but the "spot" is now coated with bed liner and will eventually be covered by a low profile tool box and ladder.

IMG_0578.jpg


Pay close attention to areas where rust will hide. I'm telling you now, rust will be in places you never imagined. I spent a month "de-scaling" my undercarriage with a drill and wire brush. The good news is things can look horrible when "scaly" with rust, then will clean up better than you thought. Learn to tell the difference between "brown meddle" and "cancer." Surface rust cleans up easily and in some cases isn't even necessary to address right away. Though I treated and painted everything with a rust preventive / converter even if I planned to revisit the spot later. In my opinion (and that is based on my experience alone), it's better to get it treated, ground down, sanded... whatever it takes, then put some Rustolium on it. Even if you plan to come back latter... stop the madness. The added paint will help you ID surface rust from cancer later. DO NOT JUST PAINT RUST - this is not what I'm suggesting, at least treat it. But best case, grind it down and at least get some primer on it. I'll post more on my build later - good luck!
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
Denver - Meet your Lexus's Kentucky Cousin... I purchased the exact same trucks (1998 with 237k on the clock). Mine is the same rare color (Smokey Topaz Micah). I had similar rust issues. I can talk rust all day long! Mine was mainly on the undercarriage and four corners. Rust is the enemy... get rid of it where you can, cut it, sand it, paint it. Get rid of it! That being said here is my rig. The body panels are done with truck bed liner.



View attachment 2638969

I started at one end and went completely through mine. There are some good things about a rusty LX - it will never be "cherry" so you can have some fun. I would have never painted body molding on a pristine LC or LX, I just wouldn't! Once you've been liberated by the rust... you can get to playing. I'm so glad I used the bed liner... and the results are amazing!

View attachment 2638970

View attachment 2638971
CUT IT OUT! The great (or really bad thing) about the LX is body panels cover most of the spots that are prone to rust. I shaved 2" off the bottom of the rear passenger side corner, wedged in some foam core behind for support and through in some fiberglass. I'm eventually mounting a ladder here so the ruff body work doesn't matter.

View attachment 2638976
Again - not perfect but the "spot" is now coated with bed liner and will eventually be covered by a low profile tool box and ladder.

View attachment 2638985

Pay close attention to areas where rust will hide. I'm telling you now, rust will be in places you never imagined. I spent a month "de-scaling" my undercarriage with a drill and wire brush. The good news is things can look horrible when "scaly" with rust, then will clean up better than you thought. Learn to tell the difference between "brown meddle" and "cancer." Surface rust cleans up easily and in some cases isn't even necessary to address right away. Though I treated and painted everything with a rust preventive / converter even if I planned to revisit the spot later. In my opinion (and that is based on my experience alone), it's better to get it treated, ground down, sanded... whatever it takes, then put some Rustolium on it. Even if you plan to come back latter... stop the madness. The added paint will help you ID surface rust from cancer later. DO NOT JUST PAINT RUST - this is not what I'm suggesting, at least treat it. But best case, grind it down and at least get some primer on it. I'll post more on my build later - good luck!
Ya I totally agree, I would rather do nothing then just paint over rust lol. Your truck looks great with the black cladding and bumpers! I will probably steal your idea, although I'll have to go above the wheel arches with the bedliner
 

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