I've got an 1997 LX450. The motor has some movement so I plan to do the mounts soon. Has anyone done them before? I'm trying to figure out how awful it will be. Doesn't seem to awful. Also, looks like I can save $100+ on buying aftermarket vs. toyota genuine, should I risk it? Thanks!
1997 Motor Mount replacements
- Thread starter LX450man
- Start date
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Go OEM
The transmission mount is easy, the motor mounts are kind of a bitch.
It’s been a few years but I think the motor starts to hit the fire wall before the mounts clear at least one side.
I would do all three at the same time.
Also be careful not to pinch the wiring harness.
The transmission mount is easy, the motor mounts are kind of a bitch.
It’s been a few years but I think the motor starts to hit the fire wall before the mounts clear at least one side.
I would do all three at the same time.
Also be careful not to pinch the wiring harness.
The motor mounts are actually easily accessible. Not hard with a engine hoist. Remove the fan clutch, unbolt the power steering reservoir, and heater control valve/harness that runs with it on the firewall. Pry bar helps a lot.
Trans mount is easy. Just support the transmission with a jack and swap it out.
Trans mount is easy. Just support the transmission with a jack and swap it out.
Don't go aftermarket. I tried aftermarket suspension bushings and they didn't last, not nearly as good as OEM. Those mounts lasted 25 years, it's worth it to spend a little more to get another 25. I shopped around for mine and looked for promotions and got them for about $50 more than aftermarket.
You'll get varying opinions as to how difficult (or not) the project is.
For me....it was not fun at all. DO go back with OEM mounts however.
The Drivers side mount.....I had to modify. Needed to cut about 3/16" off the length of the threaded stud to get it to go in.
I have an engine hoist, multiple jacks, pry bars, etc...etc, BUT it would NOT go in without modifying it a bit.
Other's have had better luck.
For me....it was not fun at all. DO go back with OEM mounts however.
The Drivers side mount.....I had to modify. Needed to cut about 3/16" off the length of the threaded stud to get it to go in.
I have an engine hoist, multiple jacks, pry bars, etc...etc, BUT it would NOT go in without modifying it a bit.
Other's have had better luck.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Buy them from partsouq for a solid price. It is a bit of a pain but doable. If you loosen up the mounts on the block it makes it a lot easier to manipulate them into place.
Ya did all that motor was still hitting the fire wall.
I do remember having to walk away and come back to it.
Like I said it was a bitch
Go genuine I chewed through aftermarket trash in no time. Genuine, NO PROBLEMO
don't forget the transmission mount
Lots of good tips already posted here but I’ll ad this. I used a floor Jack and a piece of 2x4 vertically to reach from the Jack pad up to the very forward of the oil pan where I used a short piece of 2x4 across the oil pan to spread the load.
When I jacked the engine up I applied the upward lifting force as far to the side as I could toward the mount I was replacing. Doing this slightly rotated the engine as well as lifting upward. Leaving the opposite engine isolator and trans isolator very loose is key. Easy peasy….
When I jacked the engine up I applied the upward lifting force as far to the side as I could toward the mount I was replacing. Doing this slightly rotated the engine as well as lifting upward. Leaving the opposite engine isolator and trans isolator very loose is key. Easy peasy….
This is how I lifted as well
Thanks for sharing these tips, it’s on my to-do list (and I’ve been putting off for too long). Anybody have an idea of how long I should expect it to take? 4 hrs?
4 hours is very reasonable if all goes well......but I don't have any experience with a project all going well
Manufacturing tolerances and other factors can makes some trucks easier than others. I would hesitate to do this job if I had to have the truck available the next day. You never know if you might tweak a wiring harness, break a bolt, etc. that could cause a big delay.
Manufacturing tolerances and other factors can makes some trucks easier than others. I would hesitate to do this job if I had to have the truck available the next day. You never know if you might tweak a wiring harness, break a bolt, etc. that could cause a big delay.Thanks guy! I usually triple whatever the estimate is when it’s my first time because I’m a hobbyist and it’s supposed to be “fun”.
I would remove the trans mount and let the trans drop to the crossmember then lift the front of the eng. this should give you a little extra room 
I’ll give it a whirl in a few weeks. I have the turbo kit so another few bits to disconnect
As I recall, there is a bracket between the rubber mount and the engine block on at least one side. I think I unbolted that bracket from the block and it opened up some more options to get the new mount in there. I also lifted the engine from one side or the other depending on which mount I was replacing, which I think might allow for more vertical rise on that side than just lifting the whole engine evenly in the middle.
Trans mount is easy in comparison.
Do you have an engine hoist?
Trans mount is easy in comparison.
Do you have an engine hoist?