1996 Toyota Land Cruiser A343F transmission control observations OEM controller

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I recently swapped a 4bt Cummins Diesel into my cruiser utilizing the stock auto transmission and OEM computer. The computer controls the engine and transmission and was worried about it functioning without the engine inputs.


It is installed and tuned with 90-95% of where I want it so I thought I would document my findings and methods I have about 180 miles on an original 230k transmission and feels great.


Valve Body/rail pressure:

I had the trans rail pressure set to ramp up quick and firm as well as the 3rd setting internal with a TransGo “truck setting valve body modification which is suppose to increase pressure and flow for more clutch holding power and cooling affects.

Torque converter:

I was planning on running it stock but broke the input pilot off not paying attention so I sent it off to a shop the tightened the fins for lower lock up. From what I could find the stock was around 2000rpm stall. There are not billet options and was told they could lower it a few 100 with fin adjustment. So 1700'ish stall. It's not an exact science but based on feel it didn't change much from stock but that was with a different engine so it's hard to tell.


Wiring:
basically using the Factory WD for the tranny I made sure to include all those inputs. The EGR temp sensor I replaced with a 10k ohm resister which should represent a functioning sensor once warm. I unplugged it after about 150 miles and have not noticed a difference. I also made sure to use all 3 original engine temp sensors, one is specific to the trans control. During installation I broke the connector off this sensor and it has not seemed to affect the function or shift. I do plan on adding it as I have a replacement but it doesn't seem necessary.


TPS: (discussed in a % based on scan gauge output)

I made a bracket that would give me a bunch of flexibility for adjustment. It would give em rotational change and pivot point. This gave me the ability to adjust total TSP swing as wells a cam affect both on the low side and high side. I haven't adjusted to every possible potential but made large swing changes in the first 20-30 miles to get in the ball park of what felt right and will get into details of the fine tuning.


TC lock-up:

OD off TC lock up at 43mph

OD on TC lock up at 55mph

TC will unlock with 35% plus of TPS input


Shift:

my best guess is there is a table to speed and TPS input that controls shift points.


With a TSP 0- full trottle range observations:
0-70% will not shift
0-20% shift very quickly as it thinks your moving very fast with very little input will shift into OD at 30mph
Idle switch is of at 12.5-14% when idle switch is engaged it wants to coast and not be engaged.


range: 11.5-70% quicker ratio high %
cruise: 30-40% (45mph-65mph)
to get it to shift I would have to let off the gas to the 15-25% range based on speed to get it to shift. The slower moving the lower amount of TPS% for shift point.
On highway down shift wants to occur at 55-65% (helpful for some engine swaps but with a diesel you never want an down shift)

range: 10-50% mild ratio high %
cruise 20-30% (45mph-65mph)
drive ability was much better but still had to drive like a manual lifting to let it shift. At 50mph TC would unlock at 30-35% higher at higher ratio

range 10.5-40% pretty linear with throttle.
cruise: 18-30% (45mph-65mph)
very drivable. Steady input with comfortable shifts. more throttle firm shift at higher rpm under hard acceleration slight lift of the foot allows shifts boost drops about 5psi during this time. With very little input 1-2 shift are very quick 5mph will hold to ~15 mph with more peddle input but will shift hard and firm. TC lockup as expected and OD as expected. No OD TC unlock noticed yet up through 80mph.

This set up is where I will start fine tuning with more miles and each adjustment for more indepth observations.


Other observation:
OD: will shift below the 45MPH mark with TPS under 20% otherwise at the 45mph mark.
PWR Button: turns it into more of the manual shift feel letting off 5-10% TPS for shifts. Will be very nice for hills and towing to really have good control with out having to manually use the shifter. All from the foot control.


These are my observations as of now. I plan on putting a TC lockup switch/indicator light so I can confirm that I am not having it unlock when I don't want it to. I am confident I can get the setup to lock up when I want without having to mess with a switch for the sake that anyone could jump in it. The goal is feel confident that my wife can get in it and drive cross country.


I will update as I notice new things or firm up my numbers as I am not taking data point to figure out the exact TPS/speed but believe this will help people considering a swap and help in deciding if a stand alone is needed/necessary.
 
Lots of information hopefully I am understanding it. You are using the original shift logic with the 4bt? But you are just figuring out how to drive around the shift points that are higher than the diesel's redline?

For example if you floor it the transmission will want to hold until like 4800rpms. Way over redline, so youre just moderating throttle position so you lightly press the throttle and get it to shift up more quickly?

And then while driving also carefully moderate the throttle to make sure it doesn't downshift?

Not a huge deal with an auto but is there some possability of over Rev? Probably not if you're careful but I would imagine a possability where the trans is coming to a stop and downshifts to soon.
 
Close. I am limiting TPS range.

To get the original to red line 4800 you would have a 70-80% TPS input ad a faster speed for the shift point. If my injection pump is seeing 90-100 input and the trans through TPS adjustment is only swinging to 40 it's redline is at a shift point just as it did before at 70% (or what ever that exact value is) Based on the speed and TPS input it will shift with out me changing my pedal input.

Now when I had full range 70% or pwr button which raises the shift point it is as you described, I have to adjust my foot to get the trans to shift. I'll have to take some video.

Hope this makes more since.

It drives close to stock without me thinking about it and shifts through the gears with my range of 40% TPS input but full injection pump input. It just shrinks the shift table down. To work with my lower redline and torque management.

Yes with a down shift it will over rev but it's not an issue I'll take a video of that as well all it does is govern out and free spins until the gov redline is meet again and then fuels again. You can run these engine at redline all day long and let the governor keep speed.

When I bought my original delivery truck I drove it 7 hours foot to the floor 2500rpm and got 19mpg it would fuel and spool the turbo as needed when the rpm started to droop.
 
The a343f rail pressure is controlled by the "kick down cable". It operates off injection pump input and is adjusted tight for firm shifts. Newer transmissions eliminate the cable and go to a variable electronic solenoid of some sort probably directly tied the TPS

Definitely something to consider when looking at the newer transmissions though. Say the a750f....
 
No I don't think that is entirely correct. There are 4 solenoids, inside the A343F. 2 are shift solenoids, 1 is torque converter and 1 is a pulse width modulated solenoid to adjust the pressure. I am pretty sure it is controlled by the ECU in response to throttle.

Here is a good video on the A343F, I have posted before.

 
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that's a nice generic video. the A343F in the fj80 landcruiser only has 3 solenoids. i would 100% agree that newer trans do use a variable control solenoid for the rail pressure as the 4th. now is that the 100 series or the 4runner of tacoma i don't know. they use this 4 speed with updates for many more years past the 80 series. some changes and updates could occur. over the years they use this basic trans up to almost current tacoma's with the smaller engine and 4 speed auto. was used as a standard till 2004 when the 5 speeds started taking over.
 
Yeah its been a while since I have been inside my 343 but I am pretty sure it has 4. Could be wrong I will see if I can find some pics. 4runner and Tacoma don't use the 343f only the 80 and 100 series in the US. The 4runner and Tacoma use the 340.
 
Ya I'm trying to look for some pics too. I did the vb mods about 8 months ago. Did most of my heavy thinking on the system then.

The 4runner Tacoma references I should have made as 34X. That series of transmission. All very similar constructions. With much newer versions.

I haven't been around the toyota specific items as long as other brands but know the designs stay very consistent with sometime the only visual difference being a plug type or location. Little things like that will be the external visual difference between a small 4cyl gas and the big v8 diesel in the early ford for example.
 
here is a great thread to add about valve body modifications:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/improving-transmission-shifting.349909/

the first post have valve body pics. the pulley which attached to the "tranny kick down cable" as many reference it for this model is for this version of the A343F the rail pressure adjustment cable. new versions(34X maybe even the 100series 343 i have not confirmed) this gets replaced with a pulse width modulated solenoid that is electronically controlled and require very specific inputs to operate properly.
 
Ok cool but you don't have it hooked up to throttle cable? You have it running off of injector pump? Just trying to make sure when you're seeing full torque you're also seeing max pressure
 
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Pictures are worth a 1000 words.

The cable on the very top is the tranny reference. The bottom right is the peddle and the TPS bottom left

The peddle and TPS are on the same pivot. Which is spring loaded down to the injection pump lever and tranny reference for rail pressure.

In theory the injection pump/tranny moves first before the spring overload for increase TPS signal. At this point I don't thinks its necessary but it's the linkage that was on the engine and used it. Obviously the bracket is a little crude so I could quickly make adjusts.
 
1500 mile update:

I have had a mix Hwy city off-road and it's not seamless for my application. I have to downshift manually when needed. Basically if I'm cruising down the road at 45 in 3rd or OD and slow down to pull into a parking lot or side street at 20-30 it will not down shift. There is a point that it does I haven't pin pointed as a quick flick of the wrist fixes it. It will pull fine just more TC slip than I want to put it through.

Conclusion at this point is it would be really nice to have more control ability to make it drivable by anyone to jump in and go bit I'm happy ill add a TC lock up and hopefully get a touch better mpg. 16-17 is all I'm seeing
 
over 2500 miles in the set up still haven't added a TC lock up. got it dialed in pretty good but would never get out of the endless do loop of manually downshifting occasionally which has me looking for more. still shifts strong runs through the gears 20-30 psi of boost and shifts firmly which tells me the tranny is working and locking clutches.

I found a line on a PCS TCU-2000 to install to give me a little more control. I'll be gathering sensor info over the coming weeks to start programming before I pull it off the road to cut up the wiring harness to see if I can cause some real damage.

goals:
keep 2nd gear start button
keep pwr button (a sencond shift pattern tow mode A vs B)
keep OD lock up button
add TC lockup
have 3rd and 4th gear TC lockup without touching a button (PSC has unlock delay in between shift to not shift with a locked up converter)

I might come up with more as i dig into it more and understand the PCS unit to it's fullest.

I'll do my best as I build sensor data information as I go.
 
I put 5000 miles on the OEM computer with my 4bt cummins diesel but now enters the new Era

I have my tcs-2000 installed and starting to tune took longer than expected but I also baught a used unit and had to repin conectors and things you wouldn't have to do with a new unit.
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You have sick since of fun then. I have had the contoller for several months with a spare engine harness and kept putting it off.

Not going to lie with just a few hours of tuning I think I already like it better. I'm not typically and electrical kind of guy. I don't even mess with stereo equipment much.

I try and grab a video of function it's very nice all the push button functions and dash lights as they should. I'm not going to fine tune this set up as my 3.54 gears just arrived and I'll get those in and go from there. Should be a few weeks before much of an update on those.
 
Video

sorry it's really just me talking started the gear install last night. so once that is finished I'll get it out side with better light and run it down the road. you can see how versatile this is vs a basic USshift or compushift unit, but it comes with a trade off as it is a little more complex with wiring and programing
 
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