For Sale 1996 LC80 Full Expedition Build

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W

WDL1982

10 Year
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Threads
1
Messages
12
Location
Concord, CA
Location
United States
NEW REDUCED PRICE
I'm selling my LC80 (1996), with just over 140k miles.
The truck is fully built for off-roading and expedition work.
The biggest highlights:
- 1996 LC80 4.5L I-6
- just over 140k miles (speedo not recalibrated for larger tires, installed at 120k miles)
- OME 3" lift
- 33" Toyo Open Country A/T with approx 75% tread and 2 spares (both 100% new) on OEM rims
- 5 OEM rims powdercoated black + 1 original finish OEM alloy (never used, purchased in 2015)
- ARB Front bumper with Warn M12000 winch with synthetic rope (100') and replacement or extension steel cable
- Rigid 28" E-series combo (flood/spot) light bar on front bumper (inside the main hoop)
- Kaymar rear bumper with 2 swing outs (1 spare and 2 plastic water jerry cans, spare tire and jerry cans included). Minor trail damage to rear bumper (bent tow attach point, but still functional). Both swing outs in good working condition
- Baja Racks utility rack (totally flat) on the roof (approx 90"x55").
- Rigid 40" S-series light bar mounted on the roof rack, in the hoop for the wind deflector
- Auxiliary fuel tank (The Long Ranger) for 38 gallon additional on-board fuel (with transfer pump into main tank). Main tank is 25 gal. Transfer pump has a on/off switch in the cab, driver chooses when to transfer fuel from aux tank to main tank. Total of 63 gal of on-board fuel. Approx 500-600 miles of range. The aux tank fills from the same filler neck as the stock, there is a lever to pull to fill the front or rear tank, but the rear also overflows into the main.
- ARB Front and Rear locker with ARB compressor under the hood
- IBS Dual battery system (one battery is showing corrosion, may need replacement)
- Center Diff Lock switch/function was added (not factory equipped)
- Safari snorkel
- Changed the gearing in the axles to 4.88:1 (wanted to leave room in case I did 35", but never did)
- All the rear seats (2nd and 3rd row) were removed and stored indoors and are in good condition. They are included.
- A custom plywood shelf is put in the 2nd row to put a large ARB fridge freezer (fridge NOT included) and other storage. (I did this myself, not a professional job, can be removed easily)
- Custom plywood boxes/drawers (not on sliders) in the rear cargo compartment. Large boxes to hold gear and flat space on top with airline track tie-down rails. (also did this one myself, can be removed).
- Cargo barrier between rear and 2nd row seat (but seats are removed).
- Large 12V compressor (Puma air) with 1 or 1.5 gal airtank in the rear cargo compartment, on top of the passenger side rear wheel well inside the car. Mounted on the custom mounting plates for LC80 inner rear wheel wells (I found that guy on this forum a long time ago). Plates are mounted on both sides
- 1250W TrippLite Inverter in the rear cargo compartment
- Includes some minor recovery gear (straps and D shackles, no Hi-Lift or Pull-pall, I'm keeping those)
- Firestone airbag helpers installed in the rear suspension coils, with fill ports mounted underneath the rear bumper (driver's side). This was done by 4 Wheel Parts in Oakland, CA)
- New brakes and pads (Powerstop) installed late summer of 2015 (limited mileage after that, maybe 5000). Also installed by 4 Wheel Parts, Oakland, CA.
- RAM MOUNTS flexible mounting arm (no device mounts included) to be bolted to seat bolts. I used to use this to mount my iPad for navigation on/off road.
- rock sliders with steps (Metaltech4x4.com)
- transfer case skid plate
- MicroStart (from Anti Gravity Batteries) included

All modifications to the drive train, suspension, ... were done by Mudrak Custom Cruisers in NorCal.
The car is located in Concord, California, USA (Norl Cal) and can be picked up here.
Asking $25,000 OBO. NEW REDUCED PRICE

Known issues:
- crack in windscreen behind the rear view minor (does not impede vision), in L shape towards the passenger side, probably 10-15 inches
- paint damage from trail driving (brush scratches)
- minor (shallow) dent in rear fuel tank, no leaks!
- minor dents in rear driver side quarter panel
- aux battery is probably dead, needs replacing and the truck needs a jump to start, I haven't driven in 2 months (both batteries drained).

I bought it as stock from the original owner in 2013, so it's a 2 owner car. It has seen a lot of trails, so it's not a show car or mall cruiser, it was actually used for real.
Reason for selling, even though I love it, is that I went bigger and more modern (RAM 3500 Cummins, AEV Prospector XL).
 
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Some pictures. I can add more if requested.

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One more known issue, the front passenger seat electric adjustment doesn't work anymore and it's stuck forward. I think it's the known common issue of the worm gears, so I have the replacement parts, but never got around to putting them in.

Anyone know of you can edit a post, in stead of adding new replies?
 
Look underneath your post for the edit button:
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I wont sugar coat this...for that asking price, that truck would have to be pretty damn close to showroom quality. As in no "issues". Seat works, windshield is brand new, no dings/dents/scratches, the paint would be almost flawless. Pictures of it doing a crazy obstacle would be good and then pics of it back home all cleaned and washed with the tires shined up. Also pics of the interior and how flawless it is as well. We can all agree that there is lots of $$ put into that truck but if you want what you are asking for it, people want to know how well the preventative stuff was done as well. The driveway pics scare me a little as you can see the dirt still embedded in the spare tire and lug areas...it makes me wonder what the undercarriage looks like. i am not saying that your rig is not worth that much, I am just saying that you need to present it that way.
 
RyRoRyan said:
I wont sugar coat this...for that asking price, that truck would have to be pretty damn close to showroom quality. As in no "issues". Seat works, windshield is brand new, no dings/dents/scratches, the paint would be almost flawless. Pictures of it doing a crazy obstacle would be good and then pics of it back home all cleaned and washed with the tires shined up. Also pics of the interior and how flawless it is as well. We can all agree that there is lots of $$ put into that truck but if you want what you are asking for it, people want to know how well the preventative stuff was done as well. The driveway pics scare me a little as you can see the dirt still embedded in the spare tire and lug areas...it makes me wonder what the undercarriage looks like. i am not saying that your rig is not worth that much, I am just saying that you need to present it that way.
Click to expand...

You are being very polite.
Dirty Truck, windshield cracked, dead batteries or other starting problem, no idea how the dual battery system works, no idea what sliders, no idea what converter, few pictures, a $40 fix for the seat not done, dents, scratches, 4.80? gears, odometer and mileage incorrect-all that for $35k.
This is not a red flag, this is the whole red army waving flags.
 
The only way I would pay 35k for a cruiser was if it came off the assembly line with all those additions. I agree with the above post, there should be 100's of pictures showing every perfect little detail as well as a professional appraisal of the vehicle. I would have to have receipts to believe it.

Another thing is don't expect to get MSRP prices for all the additions and modifications, rule of thumb in most sales is to take the price of the accessory and half it, then add that to the overall sale price of the vehicle itself. Also a more built vehicle is usually harder to sell because people don't have that much cash to spend and lots of enthusiast prefer a perfect blank canvas rather than an already painted picture.

Still GLWS and take advice from other posts.
 
Some more pics and updated info:
- 1250 W Inverter from Tripp-Lite
- Metaltech 4x4 rock sliders

Thanks for some of your feedback

I did say the price is OBO.

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Fridge is not included in sale, just to demonstrate the platform in the back.

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Nice looking rig. A few questions though.
Why 4.88s on only 33" tires? Were you previously running 35s or planning on moving up to them? Isn't that kind of a deep gear for a straight six that isn't too fond of over revving?
Any of the standard 80 maintenance done, PHH, headgasket, birfs?
Does it really only go 500-600 on 63 gallons? I know 80s aren't known for wonderful fuel economy, but 8-9mpg seems kind of low even loaded with gear.
 
fahrenheit 451 said:
Nice looking rig. A few questions though.
Why 4.88s on only 33" tires? Were you previously running 35s or planning on moving up to them? Isn't that kind of a deep gear for a straight six that isn't too fond of over revving?
Any of the standard 80 maintenance done, PHH, headgasket, birfs?
Does it really only go 500-600 on 63 gallons? I know 80s aren't known for wonderful fuel economy, but 8-9mpg seems kind of low even loaded with gear.
Click to expand...

I think 8-9 mpg is normal for a heavy loaded 80 on large tires. I consistently get around 10 mpg... not pretty...
 
gamaray said:
I think 8-9 mpg is normal for a heavy loaded 80 on large tires. I consistently get around 10 mpg... not pretty...
Click to expand...

Ouch. I've had my not well cared for '85 4Runner for about 25yrs now and even in its current state it probably gets around 17. I guess I'm too used to what a 4 banger does.
To the OP, still a nice rig, but at that mpg, maybe I need to change my thinking.
 
couple of things
- yes, 10-11 mpg is a reality
- the seat covers are the smittybilt ones, universal truck seat covers (back rest only not seat cover)
- the PCV and PCV hose, the plugs, breather hose, valve cover gasket and cylinder seals were all replaced Nov 2013 (125k miles-ish, shortly after I bought it)
- I discussed the gearing with Gary from Mudrak (a custom cruiser specialist) and we went with 4.88 to have the option to go to 35", but I never got around to it.
 
I figure the value of real estate for banks and the first thing I do to determine the value of something is find other properties that sold recently that are comparable to the subject property and within a certain distance of that property. Most people won't make an offer on something if it's not priced correctly up front. Not trying to be a smart ass but if you really want to sell your rig, you may want to take a look at what others are selling for. If your rig is better then you add to your price, if it's not, then you adjust your price downward to make up for the difference in condition, miles, or equipment. If you could care less if you sell it or not, then it really doesn't matter but you're probably wasting your time. Guys on this site know what these rigs are worth and no one is going to find a sucker that will pay more than something is worth, at least not here they won't. If I was trying to come up with a value on a rig like yours, this would be my first comp since it just sold on EP and it's located in California. I don't know what the final price was but this guy was asking $26,000 or best offer. Take a look at it, it may help you come up with a realistic asking price for your Cruiser. Then again you may tell me it's none of my business and that's okay also, just trying to help out. Regardless, GLWS

One more thing, I know how much money it takes to build a rig but that has nothing to do with the value of one. You probably have that much in your rig but from building a few myself, I know going in to a build I will probably never get my money back out of it. It's always cheaper to buy a built rig than to build it yourself but that takes all the fun out of it :)

Expedition Ready 1997 LX450 80 Series - Expedition Portal

I also like to look at the current competition when trying to come up with a value. This one is not sold but his asking price is the same as yours.
1995 Toyota Landcruiser w/ 4BT Cummins 3.9L Turbo Diesel Conversion, Interior Build - Expedition Portal
 
Price reduction: $ 30,000 $25,000
 
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for 22K Id be looking hard. Bear that in mind
 
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