Could you hook up a test light to the respective wire and count it that way?
1993 FZJ80 Transmission slips in forward gears
- Thread starter spdwaver
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Could you hook up a test light to the respective wire and count it that way?
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- #62
This is what I am hoping for, but not sure if the signal actually passes through the diagnostic port. I will have to check that out.
Replace the bulb...? As mentioned before, use a test light on the wire to the bulb, but if you're in that far you might as well change the bulb.
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- #64
Yes, and while I am there I will change the "D" light.
But then again, if I change the "D" light bulb, will I be removed from the club? Not sure if I want to do that.
Yes, and while I am there I will change the "D" light.
That stupid 'D' light will do nothing but piss you off. It annoys me in my wife's truck. Should have come from the factory without a light in the default position, only lighting when you're in an odd gear.
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- #66
D = Dumb, got it.
I should have said 'In my opinion...', you do whatever floats your boat.
I'm sure there are people that have fixed it and love it.
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- #68
I should have said 'In my opinion...', you do whatever floats your boat.
Honestly, I really don't care; if anything, it was an attempt at humor in explaining the purpose of the ever-elusive "D". My '91 had it and this one has it; I am accustomed to knowing what gear I am in by the shifter alone, anyway.
Back on topic: aside from pulling the cluster out and replacing the bulb, is there another means by which to pull the codes? This question is solely for future reference.
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Have you checked the wire harness/connectors going to the trans? At least one local had a connector corrosion issue that caused shifting problems.
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- #70
I talked with CDan the other day and he mentioned something similar - and I am now starting to wonder if this is the route I should be taking.
But, to answer your question, no - I have not. I will go through the FSM tonight and see where I need to start, because I have zero familiarity with the wiring in this truck.
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- #71
I was finally able to duplicate the shifting issue several times tonight:
When facing uphill in neutral, I would allow the vehicle to roll backward very slowly, then put it into drive. It causes the problem to happen every time, without fail. I could feel the transmission engage, but very slow forward motion at about 1800 RPM.
When facing uphill in neutral, I would allow the vehicle to roll backward very slowly, then put it into drive. It causes the problem to happen every time, without fail. I could feel the transmission engage, but very slow forward motion at about 1800 RPM.
were you able to shift it into L to see what happens?
as for electrical issues, that's not uncommon in just about any vehicle with that kind of milage. heck, most of them never make it that far.
i would unplug all the connections at the trans and t-case on at a time. blow them clean with an air nozzle and then apply some dielectric grease before clipping them back together. inspect for any bent or corroded tabs.
i think getting the diagnostic port working again should be a top priority...
one more question: how are you checking the fluid level? engine running or not? what gear do you have the trans in? on level gound or in your driveway? ......
hth
georg @ valley hybrids
as for electrical issues, that's not uncommon in just about any vehicle with that kind of milage. heck, most of them never make it that far.
i would unplug all the connections at the trans and t-case on at a time. blow them clean with an air nozzle and then apply some dielectric grease before clipping them back together. inspect for any bent or corroded tabs.
i think getting the diagnostic port working again should be a top priority...
one more question: how are you checking the fluid level? engine running or not? what gear do you have the trans in? on level gound or in your driveway? ......
hth
georg @ valley hybrids
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- #73
I was able to shift it into 'L' to get the vehicle moving in an effort to get it moving in a forward direction; although the RPMs are high even when in 'L'.
I went ahead and took an air nozzle to the various connections, the solenoid plug being the first, but it still did the same thing.
I will be getting into the dash *hopefully* tonight then attempt to find a replacement bulb at some auto parts store.
I check the fluid when the engine is running and the trans is warmed up, of course; in park, on level ground.
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- #74
I tore into the dash tonight and swapped the '2' bulb for the 'O/D OFF' light since I was not able to source a replacement bulb. At least now I know exactly how to tear the whole dash apart.
I ran the diagnostic: no codes at all. To verify operation of the diagnostic port, I disconnected the plug to the solenoids on the transmission, then started it, then put it into various gears. I then shut the truck off, plugged in the SST, and checked again: this time, it threw a 62 and 63; meaning that there was a severed wire at the solenoids, which is what I was looking for.
I went ahead and connected the solenoid plug and took it for a test drive. As I mentioned earlier, I was able to duplicate the problem by allowing the vehicle to roll backward slowly while it is in neutral, then put it into 'D'. Only this time, it did not happen; not even after four attempts.
This must be either a faulty solenoid or valve body or...I just don't know at this point. I am considering buying a valve body for around $250.00 locally, and take my chances on it.
I ran the diagnostic: no codes at all. To verify operation of the diagnostic port, I disconnected the plug to the solenoids on the transmission, then started it, then put it into various gears. I then shut the truck off, plugged in the SST, and checked again: this time, it threw a 62 and 63; meaning that there was a severed wire at the solenoids, which is what I was looking for.
I went ahead and connected the solenoid plug and took it for a test drive. As I mentioned earlier, I was able to duplicate the problem by allowing the vehicle to roll backward slowly while it is in neutral, then put it into 'D'. Only this time, it did not happen; not even after four attempts.
This must be either a faulty solenoid or valve body or...I just don't know at this point. I am considering buying a valve body for around $250.00 locally, and take my chances on it.
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- #75
Latest update:
Now that I have my 'O/D OFF' light, I am able to see what was not seen before, such as diagnostics and the obvious.
This morning, while travelling at about 45MPH, the O/D OFF light began flashing steadily, then intermittently, then it just disappeared altogether.
Me thinks there might be a loose connection somewhere or it is evidence of some other issue. I will scour the FSM and post my findings.
Now that I have my 'O/D OFF' light, I am able to see what was not seen before, such as diagnostics and the obvious.
This morning, while travelling at about 45MPH, the O/D OFF light began flashing steadily, then intermittently, then it just disappeared altogether.
Me thinks there might be a loose connection somewhere or it is evidence of some other issue. I will scour the FSM and post my findings.
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Did you look carefully at the connectors? On the later rigs this connection is near the starter, so susceptible to heater hose leaks, etc, dripping on, corroding them.
By playing with the plug, you may have changed/improved the connection. The connection can fail from corrosion, a pin being pushed back into the plastic housing, being bent so it doesn't properly clamp/contact the other half, etc.
Did it set a code?
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- #77
Interesting to know about the connectors. When I first unplugged them, I did this in an effort to clear out all of the mud that the PO had gotten all over everything (the PO mentioned that he took the truck "mudding" prior to selling it to me; mud was found all the way up to the distributor). Would you suggest buying a new plug with pig tails and wiring into that?
But, overall, the connectors look really clean; but that's not to say that there could be a pin pushed up as you mentioned. But, if that were the case, the first attempt at pulling codes should have yielded, in it's memory, that the line to the solenoids had been 'severed', correct?
I did not, however, notice a plug or any related connection or wiring near the starter or near the exhaust, so I will have to get back to you on that one.
If it did throw a code, I did not check it yet. I still have not cleared the code from the disconnect test I performed last night. I will go ahead and clear the codes and see if anything will pop back up after I drive it home tonight.
Thanks for your help. Hopefully this whole experience will yield some good tech for future reference.
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If they have a big problem yes, if not no need. Most I have been able to repair.
This is from my '96 LX450, don't have an early manual. But have repaired a FJ62 harness in the same spot for start/neutral switch issues, so would guess they are in the same place on the '93. Connectors marked EC1 & EC2 are the main disconnect point for removing the trans. They are over the starter, near the PHH, kinda bad access spot.
My guess is it will set a code if there is a bad connection and/or bad solenoid. The solenoid can fail from being bad or if it's not getting power (bad wire connection), both can happen intermittently. Not saying it a bad connection, but would suck to buy new ones and find out it's a bad connection?
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- #79
Now that you mention the location, that would make sense why I did not find it and why it may be my salvation here.
As mentioned earlier, the PO mudded this truck to the distributor, so the engine needed a good cleansing.
Being that the entire engine was completely covered in mud, I pressure-washed the engine (knowing that it would take time to blow everything out and wait for certain components to dry, but it was well worth it - to a point), so there is a chance that the pressure-washing could have done something to adversely affect a plug or two.
Also, there could be corrosion caused from a past PHH issue that I am not aware of.
Here's the '93 routing:
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- #80
I disconnected the plug that Tools R Us mentioned, cleaned it up, plugged it back in.
A test drive did not yield any negative results. so I will have a better idea tomorrow when I take it for a 250-mile test drive.
A test drive did not yield any negative results. so I will have a better idea tomorrow when I take it for a 250-mile test drive.