been running camry AFM for over a yr now with zero problems...
1991 MAF Interchange (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter USOffRoad
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The 3vzfe AFM inlet/outlet is physically larger than the 3vze’s so modification to the air cleaner box and intake tube to throttle body would be necessary. As I recall those that did this install in the past removed the air cleaner box and installed a cone filter (K&N style) and used either a reducer to make it fit the stock intake tube or hard piped the AFM to the throttle body with 3” piping.
although it electrically plugs right in you’ll more than likely need to mess with the cog wheel settings under the black lid. 2-3 clicks lean is what I remember as a starting point.
Don’t quote me on the settings as it’s been awhile since I played around with the AFM mod. Used to be a popular mod back in the day. These days I would just rewire the truck for standalone fuel management ala megasquirt and ditch the AFM.
They look identical, bolt right up!
What do you mean by "rewire the truck for stand alone fuel management ala megasquirt and ditch CV h the AMF."
I just bought the 80 and found out there was an electrical fire, caused the air intake tube to melt shut. PO got it running with barely any air and messed with the pedometer, cog wheel, and who knows what else and got it running. Now that I have air flowing back to the beast it doesnt want to stay running! Fires off then dies immediately. Changed the cold start sensor, water temp sensor and another one right there too, the names slipped my mind.
I want to get rid of it and upgrade, the $800, or put the supra or Corolla afm in there. Cant seem to find the original part. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Btw, first time question, hope I'm doing this right, 1991 3fe fj80 just bought it 2 months ago. Been to kingmond, az, san louis obispo, ca, no problems ran great after the first 63 mph treck to az, sand storm and all. Then SLO was not to bad 80 mph but had hard time with below 60° temps. Kept getting worse until now, fires and dies. Thanks for your time.
I have a 1992 that had a repeatable rpm swing in the driveway and intermitanly on and off the road. In park and holding the throttle to 2200 the rpm will drop to 1900 and back to 2200 endlessly. After a lot of seaching, I found a supplier in Miam selling new AFMs for $70, no core, free shipping. I can't really tell if it "new" or really remanufactured. Etherway, it solved my issue.
herko.com
True Part Inc. Mass Air Flow Sensor MAF1172 For Toyota Land Cruiser 1988-1992
Herko Online Store
herko.com
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Thanks for that link. I ordered one came yesterday, installed it along with new distributor cap/rotor, wires plugs and boy what a change! Now it barely starts, when it does black smoke, pops in the cat's that sound scarey! Ruff idle, missing bad. CEL is flashing WARNING, WARNING, WARNING WILL ROBERTSON!!
I checked the high tension cords for proper placement, all good and I can't set timing because that damn pop is so bad I dont want to do any damage.
I'll have to put this out in tech world and see what comes up.
I appreciate your help and the link CDSmith2002, you have a great day!
I checked the high tension cords for proper placement, all good and I can't set timing because that damn pop is so bad I dont want to do any damage.
I'll have to put this out in tech world and see what comes up.
I appreciate your help and the link CDSmith2002, you have a great day!
air flow meters, MAFs and such are sized to the displacement of the engine. Putting a AFM for a 3.0L engine onto a 4.0L engine will work but not work properly.
You should be able to source a good used AFM from any 3FE equipped Land Cruiser (FJ62 or FJ80) as they use the same part number.
Your original post where you claim the engine would start and then stall after it catches and you release the key from the START position points to the AFM.
The fuel pump is fired when you crank the starter. This energizes the primary fuel pump logic. The flap in the AFM opens when the motor starts to suck air and that fires the secondary fuel pump logic to keep the fuel pump running.
If there was an engine fire, it's possible that the wiring from the AFM is shorted/melted, so I would certainly look into that first.
Also, disconnect the "new" AFM you installed and try to start. If it's backfiring without the AFM connected, the issue is not with the AFM and I suspect the plug wires are not going to the correct holes.
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I unplugged the new AFM and tried to start it, no dice, it didnt want to start. Checked plug wires right down the head in order all match with numbers on the distributor cap. What I did find was this.
It looks like radiator stop leak and it was packed. The 2 bypass hoses on top of thermostat crumbled in my hands.
So I cleaned all that out and she starts but still back fires. I adjusted the idle down to 650rpm's with the golden screw, 5½ turns in clockwise. Now trying to check timing but cant see the mark's. I checked tps, isc within parameters and i replaced the three sensors up front.
I know timing needs to be set, what else EGR, PCV?
Thanks for your help
It looks like radiator stop leak and it was packed. The 2 bypass hoses on top of thermostat crumbled in my hands.
So I cleaned all that out and she starts but still back fires. I adjusted the idle down to 650rpm's with the golden screw, 5½ turns in clockwise. Now trying to check timing but cant see the mark's. I checked tps, isc within parameters and i replaced the three sensors up front.
I know timing needs to be set, what else EGR, PCV?
Thanks for your help
Well that looks like a hot mess.
Couple of things here. The "golden screw" sets static air intake at idle. Proper adjustment is 1/2 to 3/4 turn from fully seated. While it will have a temporary effect on idle speed, the idle speed is set by the ECU pushing the ISC valve. However in your case, it seems like the golden screw was severely misadjusted and the coolant path through the ISC was plugged.
The coolant paths through the throttle body need to be clear along with the rest of the coolant system. I would spend some time making sure that it's all flowing like it should, or it will never be right.
Again, the 3FE ECU has a very limited window of error correction. All mechanicals MUST be correct first. 1st generation EFI technology from 1986 on a tractor motor.
Below is a cheat for setting timing on a 3FE.
Help on adjusting timing / '91 / 3FE
In my ongoing saga of trying to get my 3FE smogged I'm nearly about to pass, but my timing is off, literally. According to the smog tech I can be off by 3-degrees +/- from factory spec. As you likely know factory is 7-degree and the tech says I'm at 13 so I need to drop it down to no more than...
forum.ih8mud.com
Thank you for the thread. I was going to continue on with the cooling system and check the wires to the AFM, I ordered a new connector this morning. I'm going to go now and see if I can set the timing and check the coolant system.Well that looks like a hot mess.
Couple of things here. The "golden screw" sets static air intake at idle. Proper adjustment is 1/2 to 3/4 turn from fully seated. While it will have a temporary effect on idle speed, the idle speed is set by the ECU pushing the ISC valve. However in your case, it seems like the golden screw was severely misadjusted and the coolant path through the ISC was plugged.
The coolant paths through the throttle body need to be clear along with the rest of the coolant system. I would spend some time making sure that it's all flowing like it should, or it will never be right.
Again, the 3FE ECU has a very limited window of error correction. All mechanicals MUST be correct first. 1st generation EFI technology from 1986 on a tractor motor.
Below is a cheat for setting timing on a 3FE.
Help on adjusting timing / '91 / 3FE
In my ongoing saga of trying to get my 3FE smogged I'm nearly about to pass, but my timing is off, literally. According to the smog tech I can be off by 3-degrees +/- from factory spec. As you likely know factory is 7-degree and the tech says I'm at 13 so I need to drop it down to no more than...
A tractor motor huh, that explaines why it keeps on pushing.
I really do appreciate your time and knowledge.
For those of you who added the Cardone 74-20070 AFM, did you install out of the box or did you pop the top off and richen the mixture? I threw one on my 91 and it seems to run smoother but just don't want to damage the engine if these run the engine lean. I don't get a check engine light or anything so I figure its fine. I still have the original and could just clean it up and pop it back on if the Cardone 74-20070 runs too lean.
You won't damage your engine by running a bit lean or rich in these tractor motors.
