1991 lift questions… (1 Viewer)

[TheMindofJ]

I have a 1991 fj80 that i am looking to lift. I am considering the OME 3“Heavy lift, as I will be putting on 35s and bumpers. My question is do I need to get the additional parts such as panhard rod, upper/lower trailing arms, and front tracking bar? How critical (or not) are those additional parts?

If i decide to do the 2.5”OME lift instead, will I need to get those additional parts or just the base suspension system? Still would run 35s.

 

[CrabCake]

It's a very slippery slope...I would say that you could do either one without the extras and be drivable. That said, additional things to consider would be....sway bar drop kits, radius arm caster bushings, longer brake lines, and maybe most importantly...gearing. The 315's will really take a toll on the 3FE's power. You have options of either a re-gear in the axles or the 10% under drive gear kit in the transfer case to help out here.

When I got mine, a '94, the PO did the OME 2.5", caster bushings, adjustable upper trailing arms, 4.56 gears, and brake lines...running on 285's (with front and rear heavy bumpers). Although I was perfectly happy with this overall, since then, I've added/changed: 315's, sway bar drops, bump stop drops, Delta 3 radius arms & rear panhard bracket, Dobinsons 3" VT springs, Dobinsons 4-5" IMS shocks....still looking to add a front adjustable panhard bar, heavier lower rear trailing arms, 10% under drive transfer case gearing, and I think I'm "done". That said, if I come across a set of 37's that I can't pass up, I may try those too. As I added groups of parts in stages, each time I'd say to myself, "wow, I didn't know it could be this much better!"

If there's a chance that you can find someone with a 3FE powered rig close to you with larger tires to take a ride in, it may make some decisions for you on how much to add to yours. Sorry if I didn't really answer your question, but hopefully put things into perspective a bit. One note, I picked my rig up from AZ, and it was set up very well with the 285's to handle a LOT of AZ terrain...I'm on the east coast, and have added parts needed for harder core sharp rock crawling through the woods/mountains in my area.

At a minimum, if you can deal with the power, I'd say yes to either lift, but also include at least radius arm caster bushings, longer brake lines, and drop blocks for the front sway bar. Bumpers would be later on my list as you may want to save some budget for other suspension or gearing upgrades.

 

[TheMindofJ]

It's a very slippery slope...I would say that you could do either one without the extras and be drivable. That said, additional things to consider would be....sway bar drop kits, radius arm caster bushings, longer brake lines, and maybe most importantly...gearing. The 315's will really take a toll on the 3FE's power. You have options of either a re-gear in the axles or the 10% under drive gear kit in the transfer case to help out here.

When I got mine, a '94, the PO did the OME 2.5", caster bushings, adjustable upper trailing arms, 4.56 gears, and brake lines...running on 285's (with front and rear heavy bumpers). Although I was perfectly happy with this overall, since then, I've added/changed: 315's, sway bar drops, bump stop drops, Delta 3 radius arms & rear panhard bracket, Dobinsons 3" VT springs, Dobinsons 4-5" IMS shocks....still looking to add a front adjustable panhard bar, heavier lower rear trailing arms, 10% under drive transfer case gearing, and I think I'm "done". That said, if I come across a set of 37's that I can't pass up, I may try those too. As I added groups of parts in stages, each time I'd say to myself, "wow, I didn't know it could be this much better!"

If there's a chance that you can find someone with a 3FE powered rig close to you with larger tires to take a ride in, it may make some decisions for you on how much to add to yours. Sorry if I didn't really answer your question, but hopefully put things into perspective a bit. One note, I picked my rig up from AZ, and it was set up very well with the 285's to handle a LOT of AZ terrain...I'm on the east coast, and have added parts needed for harder core sharp rock crawling through the woods/mountains in my area.

At a minimum, if you can deal with the power, I'd say yes to either lift, but also include at least radius arm caster bushings, longer brake lines, and drop blocks for the front sway bar. Bumpers would be later on my list as you may want to save some budget for other suspension or gearing upgrades.

thanks so much for the in depth response!

 

[BILT4ME]

thanks so much for the in depth response!

One of the guys here has modified his 91-92 much to the description of what you lists.

Over 2.5" lift and you'll start chasing driveline and handling issues.

I'll let him fill you in.

@Marco Lau

 

[Marco Lau]

I have a 1991 fj80 that i am looking to lift. I am considering the OME 3“Heavy lift, as I will be putting on 35s and bumpers. My question is do I need to get the additional parts such as panhard rod, upper/lower trailing arms, and front tracking bar? How critical (or not) are those additional parts?

If i decide to do the 2.5”OME lift instead, will I need to get those additional parts or just the base suspension system? Still would run 35s.

HI,
What is your intended use for your 91? Overland/rock crawl/daily? To fit 35s, and 35s only, i would just go with the 2.5" OME lift or similar. You can get away without the f/r panhards, or perhaps upgrade later on if needed to go taller lift. Once you step up to 37s, you will need a whole lot more in supporting mods. longer front control arms, longer rear CA, panhards, regear, taller bump stops, brakelines, DC driveshafts, etc etc.

Hope this helps.

ML

 

[TheMindofJ]

HI,
What is your intended use for your 91? Overland/rock crawl/daily? To fit 35s, and 35s only, i would just go with the 2.5" OME lift or similar. You can get away without the f/r panhards, or perhaps upgrade later on if needed to go taller lift. Once you step up to 37s, you will need a whole lot more in supporting mods. longer front control arms, longer rear CA, panhards, regear, taller bump stops, brakelines, DC driveshafts, etc etc.

Hope this helps.

ML

Intended use for my 91 is a weekend road-tripper/something to hit dirt roads with light to moderate off-roading. No rock crawling or anything. At most driving a few miles in to find a good camp spot. All my adventuring occurs in northern Arizona, if that helps.

If I were to get the 2.5” OME, I could just get the base lift with no additions correct? Would it be okay to add 30mm front and rear coil spacers for that extra clearance without modification?

 

[TheMindofJ]

Intended use for my 91 is a weekend road-tripper/something to hit dirt roads with light to moderate off-roading. No rock crawling or anything. At most driving a few miles in to find a good camp spot. All my adventuring occurs in northern Arizona, if that helps.

And, I just want 35s because they look sweet

 

[Marco Lau]

Intended use for my 91 is a weekend road-tripper/something to hit dirt roads with light to moderate off-roading. No rock crawling or anything. At most driving a few miles in to find a good camp spot. All my adventuring occurs in northern Arizona, if that helps.

If I were to get the 2.5” OME, I could just get the base lift with no additions correct? Would it be okay to add 30mm front and rear coil spacers for that extra clearance without modification?

are you intend to load up the rig heavy? RTT, tools, camping gear, front/rear bumpers, roof rack, accessories, etc? In my experience, the driver rear on the 91 seems to be heavier and you can add a 30mm rubber spacer to level up the rig. 35s will be perfect for a 2-3inch lift IMO.
Below is a pic of my rig on 35s. it has a winch/arb bumper, sliders, Icon 2.0 3" lift with no rear bumper and a roof rack. I did have a Landtank caster plate for added caster when the lift was installed and i would strongly suggest adding that to your OME lift. and avoid using caster bushings...
Also if you do not have a spare tire carrier, Wits End used to make a kit so you can fit 35s in the factory spare tire location. Otherwise, do a search, you can modify the factory spare tire carrier to accept 35s IIRC.

 

[TheMindofJ]

are you intend to load up the rig heavy? RTT, tools, camping gear, front/rear bumpers, roof rack, accessories, etc? In my experience, the driver rear on the 91 seems to be heavier and you can add a 30mm rubber spacer to level up the rig. 35s will be perfect for a 2-3inch lift IMO.
Below is a pic of my rig on 35s. it has a winch/arb bumper, sliders, Icon 2.0 3" lift with no rear bumper and a roof rack. I did have a Landtank caster plate for added caster when the lift was installed and i would strongly suggest adding that to your OME lift. and avoid using caster bushings...
Also if you do not have a spare tire carrier, Wits End used to make a kit so you can fit 35s in the factory spare tire location. Otherwise, do a search, you can modify the factory spare tire carrier to accept 35s IIRC.

View attachment 3470464

Dude. That thing is badass. Yes I do plan on putting a rear bumper with tire carrier, and rooftop tent.

 

[Marco Lau]

I would go OME heavy if that is the case.
My rig is on the heavier side as well, about #6700 lbs without ppl in it. It is on 37s and occasionally i do load it up with Kayak, awnings, etc. when i am not rock crawling. It is currently on 3.5" Dobinson IMS shocks and HD Slinky 4" springs. You will love the OME lift and 35s.

 

[TheMindofJ]

I would go OME heavy if that is the case.
My rig is on the heavier side as well, about #6700 lbs without ppl in it. It is on 37s and occasionally i do load it up with Kayak, awnings, etc. when i am not rock crawling. It is currently on 3.5" Dobinson IMS shocks and HD Slinky 4" springs. You will love the OME lift and 35s.

View attachment 3470516View attachment 3470513

Awesome. Okay last question.

I’m only planning on doing a rear bumper and more or less keeping the front bumper stock, should I still get heavy coils for the front or should i do medium up front heavy in the rear? (How I like my women)

Thanks for your time and input

I would go OME heavy if that is the case.
My rig is on the heavier side as well, about #6700 lbs without ppl in it. It is on 37s and occasionally i do load it up with Kayak, awnings, etc. when i am not rock crawling. It is currently on 3.5" Dobinson IMS shocks and HD Slinky 4" springs. You will love the OME lift and 35s.

View attachment 3470523View attachment 3470516

View attachment 3470526

 

[Marco Lau]

Awesome. Okay last question.

I’m only planning on doing a rear bumper and more or less keeping the front bumper stock, should I still get heavy coils for the front or should i do medium up front heavy in the rear? (How I like my women)

Thanks for your time and input

So no winch and front bumper? Do you ever plan on upgrading the front in the future? I would do medium in the front and keep the rear heavy if that is the case.

 

[TheMindofJ]

So no winch and front bumper? Do you ever plan on upgrading the front in the future? I would do medium in the front and keep the rear heavy if that is the case.

Correct. No winch will be added. Thank you

 

[TheMindofJ]

So no winch and front bumper? Do you ever plan on upgrading the front in the future? I would do medium in the front and keep the rear heavy if

Correct. No winch will be added. Thank you

Brakes on 35s - do I need to upgrade them?

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Brakes on 35s - do I need to upgrade them?

It would certainly be helpful. A FJ80 will have mediocre braking with OEM tires. BTW, you realize that for the intended use of your 80 absolutely no mods are required, right?

 

[TheMindofJ]

It would certainly be helpful. A FJ80 will have mediocre braking with OEM tires. BTW, you realize that for the intended use of your 80 absolutely no mods are required, right?

Yup

 

[White Stripe]

You'll definitely want to make sure the brakes are in good shape. Repair any leaking axle seals so oil isn't getting on the brakes. Check for brake pad and shoe wear level, check for cracks and oil contamination. Replace the lspv, brake booster, brake master, and all rubber hoses if original. Also check for worn or loose wheel bearings. Will also need to most likely rebuild or replace the rear turnbuckles.

 

[Marco Lau]

Aside from lifts and larger tires, the usual upgrades most ppl tend to do when buying an 80s. I would strongly suggest you upgrade your EFI relay if you have not done so. Upgrade to a newer style plastic EFI relay from Toyota or get a few spare aftermarket plastic ones just in case. It is not a matter of IF, but a matter of WHEN. Your rig will render a no start and the most obvious symptom is no check engine light when the key is in the ON position. I relocated the relay inside the firewall and built a custom heat shield around the fuse box and never had a problem since. Do a search and you can get most info. on MUD. Otherwise, you can PM me and i can walk you thru it. Just dont want you to get stranded out in the middle of nowhere for when that happens. As for braking, the factory pads are adequate for stock application. I found the braking to vastly improved when swapping out better pads and if you have lift more than 2.5"-3", adjusting the proportioning valve in the rear above the axle to be most effective. I have never found my rig to not have enough braking on 37s and upwards of 6000lbs. Dont waste your time on 100s pads and rotors IMO.

 

[Bombatron]

Where are you guys buying your OME lift kits from? I’m looking to get the 2.5” kit also.. weekend driver, no crawling or extreme off road stuff. Occasional dirt roads to campsites. Any good sales going on?

 

[BILT4ME]

Where are you guys buying your OME lift kits from? I’m looking to get the 2.5” kit also.. weekend driver, no crawling or extreme off road stuff. Occasional dirt roads to campsites. Any good sales going on?

Cruiser Outfitters
@cruiseroutfit

I'll let Kurt post the site.

Oh, and CALL them and talk to a human about what you want, what you really, really want.