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Ok so this is all flavored for only trip kind use in mind. I have a trail 40 and it is setup differently with trails more in mind.

For sliders, I like ones that will push out toward the rear. I have 4x4Labs sliders and rear bumper and think both are great. My sliders could use about an inch more outboard than they are to give a better step. I find them useful for utility more than as sliders, and I think that's worth considering if you are building more for trips than strictly wheeling. I should probably have done something clever like use them as air tanks too.

All the armor has gotten my unlocked H55/HZ around Wentworth to Loon and I used every corner of armor to do it, but that is probably the worst the truck has seen for harder core stuff. After using my setup for six or eight years, I've found I am usually coming down on the rear bumper more than anything else on the truck.

My front is going through a redesign. I am going to mount it similar to FJ454's front bumper mount (box the frame, mount it 4 bolts to a side and have through mounted recovery points, see below), and work in a front hitch to use for winching and carrying a motorcycle up front. Not sure on the rest of the front design but it will have some kind of brush feature as I end up using the one I have a lot to push through things as well as push down trees around. I tend to go where people haven't been in many years so there are usually obstacles to deal with.

I know something about frequencies of diesels you guys get. Gary will call every so often looking for a 3B or 1/2H part. It is very comforting to know the 1HZ is the longest production engine Toyota has ever made across every engine they've made, and it is still being produced, since '90, so it is a known quantity and plentiful parts-wise.

It still isn't too late to sell yours and get a good one. Georg has a few. ;)

Look at Opposite Lock and Load Ranger for tanks, or look into a custom tank. I have a homemade Aussie 50G tank so 1000 miles is not far off the maximum range without carrying fuel. Luke got about 1200 miles out of his African outfitted HJ61 but I think he had a normal main+30G or so aux. I would rather have part of the tank more forward between axles if I were to do it again.. the truck is about 2800F/3600R last I weighed it. One nice thing about the 12H-T is you get to keep your original exhaust line, the HZ is opposite from the factory 6x route. Look into v-band connection at the downpipe to make it easy to disconnect the exhaust if you have to- I want to change mine from flanges.

Also in the vein of extra fuel and weight, design to keep weight as centered and low as possible. Stay away from roof racks unless you can't stand it and feel you need one or have more than 2 people to carry. Make use of WagonGear and all the panels Kevin makes. I have them all and the seat box, mostly because I'm his guinea pig, and all that extra space is very usable. I have a long way to go in organizing storage. Need to spend a couple weeks with Kevin to work out the next evolution of my sleep/storage platform.

0002.jpg
 
Ok so this is all flavored for only trip kind use in mind. I have a trail 40 and it is setup differently with trails more in mind.

For sliders, I like ones that will push out toward the rear. I have 4x4Labs sliders and rear bumper and think both are great. My sliders could use about an inch more outboard than they are to give a better step. I find them useful for utility more than as sliders, and I think that's worth considering if you are building more for trips than strictly wheeling. I should probably have done something clever like use them as air tanks too.

All the armor has gotten my unlocked H55/HZ around Wentworth to Loon and I used every corner of armor to do it, but that is probably the worst the truck has seen for harder core stuff. After using my setup for six or eight years, I've found I am usually coming down on the rear bumper more than anything else on the truck.

My front is going through a redesign. I am going to mount it similar to FJ454's front bumper mount (box the frame, mount it 4 bolts to a side and have through mounted recovery points, see below), and work in a front hitch to use for winching and carrying a motorcycle up front. Not sure on the rest of the front design but it will have some kind of brush feature as I end up using the one I have a lot to push through things as well as push down trees around. I tend to go where people haven't been in many years so there are usually obstacles to deal with.

I know something about frequencies of diesels you guys get. Gary will call every so often looking for a 3B or 1/2H part. It is very comforting to know the 1HZ is the longest production engine Toyota has ever made across every engine they've made, and it is still being produced, since '90, so it is a known quantity and plentiful parts-wise.

It still isn't too late to sell yours and get a good one. Georg has a few. ;)

Look at Opposite Lock and Load Ranger for tanks, or look into a custom tank. I have a homemade Aussie 50G tank so 1000 miles is not far off the maximum range without carrying fuel. Luke got about 1200 miles out of his African outfitted HJ61 but I think he had a normal main+30G or so aux. I would rather have part of the tank more forward between axles if I were to do it again.. the truck is about 2800F/3600R last I weighed it. One nice thing about the 12H-T is you get to keep your original exhaust line, the HZ is opposite from the factory 6x route. Look into v-band connection at the downpipe to make it easy to disconnect the exhaust if you have to- I want to change mine from flanges.

Also in the vein of extra fuel and weight, design to keep weight as centered and low as possible. Stay away from roof racks unless you can't stand it and feel you need one or have more than 2 people to carry. Make use of WagonGear and all the panels Kevin makes. I have them all and the seat box, mostly because I'm his guinea pig, and all that extra space is very usable. I have a long way to go in organizing storage. Need to spend a couple weeks with Kevin to work out the next evolution of my sleep/storage platform.

0002.jpg

Great suggestions Esh! Thanks so much for helping out. Im already pretty deep into the 12HT, so thats the way I am going to go. The 12HT also has more torque and HP than the HZ-t, and I cant lie and say Im not looking for as much power as possible. But my family does have a fleet of 3 60's and an 80, so there are still plenty of possible diesel swaps down the road. I love the idea of using the sliders as air tanks! I never would have thought of that. Ill calculate out the possible volume, but do you think it would be work it to use one as water storage, and one as air storage? Would weight on one side cause the truck to tilt? Im just throwing idea's around, but your advice is GREATLY appreciated. Being 17 I cant act like I have a ton of experience, maybe more than the average 17 year old cruiserhead......... but any and all advice is more than welcome.

Heres another question. When I pull out my diff gears during the diesel swap, Gary suggested I drop in a set of lockers. I know ARB is the best, but between the lockers and compressor it would cost a LOT of money that I frankly dont have. Are there any other options that might come close ARB lockers? If not, would you recommend putting in a rear locker, and saving money without a front locker in order to go with an ARB?

Thanks again Esh!
 
For water, I would find someone with a plastic welder and make a custom setup. I am trying to find my uncle's FJ Cruiser custom build thread on fjcruiserforum or expo but am coming up empty. It is too much hassle working with mild steel to use for water, and you don't want sliders made of stainless. The idea with plastic welding is you can make exactly what you need, have large openings to make cleaning easier and attach whatever and however you want. Plus it is a cheap and slow way to do it as money allows.

Do ARB. It is fine wheeling unlocked until you can afford them. Look for trucks that come in with used ones.. ARBs allow you to build out an air system which you need anyways and they are selectable, strong and one of the best to quickly engage and disengage. There is a reason they cost so much and it is very much worth it. Scour craigslist, marlin forums, here and club forums for used ones. Heck I might be moving to a different kind of axle so mine might come up soon.

I would only do a rear locker. Fronts are very useful in very few situations and can cause more breakage and grief than the value they add. At least do a selectable rear locker first and don't worry about being fully locked. You aren't building a trail truck. For a compressor look at the Puma on ebay, which is extremeaire's unit, pacbrake, and others in the airbag crowd. They are all the same basic design. Again you can get by for a long time without a compressor and air lockers. I am unlocked and use CO2 in that truck. I have all the parts for an air system but it never seems to get installed. Having a York setup in the 40, though, full air system and F/R ARBs are a thing of beauty.

Since you'll be in the diffs, Gary's advice is good. It's only money, then you can put together your air system more slowly.
 
New headlights!!!!

My headlights (particularly my high beams) really weren't cutting it on or off road. Last saturday at work I asked around for what a decent upgrade might be.

I was handed a box labeled ///IPF........ The packaging wasnt very descriptive so I only know the brand unfortunately. Regardless, these lights kick ASS! Its no LED bar, but damn its AMAZING how much of a difference a good set of bulbs does!

I should have got some before/after pictures, but I didnt think about it. I might pop a bulb out this weekend and take a photo if people are interested.

The light bar will be a reality.......... eventually
 
So I'm trying to build a rough timeline for my diesel swap.

I have to pull out my 2F, the wiring harness, radiator, front and rear diff gears, and the motor mounts.

I want to be able to start putting the 12HT in as soon as it gets to the shop, yet dont want to start pulling my rig apart 10 days in advance and it just sits gutless for 8 because I started too soon.

The motor mounts for the 12HT come with the engine so unfortunately I cant start welding those in.

If anyone has any general idea for how long this whole thing might take (swap from beginning to end, or just pieces) it would be greatly appreciated.

I have a pretty solid deadline to get the truck FINISHED, but I could start pulling the rig apart as soon as I want. Im budgeting myself about 20 days to do the whole thing and have the rig 100% drivable........ let me know if you guys think that is possible/impossible, probable/improbable. Im really looking for estimations on time needed to A. Dismantle and prep, and B. Instal, test, and troubleshoot

Remember this is my first diesel swap. I do have some great guys to help me out, but they will mostly be doing the "now hook those up to that, and plug those in there" point and talk sort of assistance.
 
20 days seems reasonable to me. I mean, Ian from xtreme 4x4 can pull off an entire engine swap in like 23 minutes.


...via IH8MUD app
 
20 days is reasonable, especially that the only welding you have to do is for the motor mount relocation. Buy some good beer and invite friends over to help with the heavy lifting and you'll be golden.
 
Heres another question. With the 12HT in, how much do you guys think my rig will way? In California, if your truck is 1997 or older, runs on diesel, and is 14,000lbs or more, you are exempt from a mandatory smog check for life.............. If its not 14,000lbs, anyone have any large amounts of lead I could borrow? hahahahahaha. No way I can make that weight threshold. Do they check the vin numbers when you get a smog check? We happen to have two nearly identical red Fj60's (one of which will have gas engine that passes smog.....)

My rig is fairly stock when it comes to additional weight. Id bet its somewhere around 5,000lbs???
 
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For reference, with armor all around, 50G fuel tank, spares/fluids, and all the camping stuff- platform, food, water, fridge, dog etc. I am at 2800 front/3600 rear weight.

Smog should not be a worry. There are many conversions in Cali. If Mudrak doesn't know, ask Georg about the process for a diesel conversion. I think there are threads in the diesel forum about it here on Mud. Especially in California, don't try to trick anyone, just do it on the level.
 
DEATH RATTLE RETURNETH!

Alright. This shaking has to go. Heres what happens: Rarely (maybe once every couple weeks) above 50mph my car starts to shake. The whole car, but you can REALLY feel it in the steering wheel. Its not a side to side vibration, more of an up and down wheel rattle. The shaking grows with distance regardless of deceleration, acceleration, gear shifting, or braking. The shaking only goes away when I drop under 35mph, or drive a long, flat, straight road at around 45 or so for one or two miles. Something new happened this time though. I was headed down a hill, decent grade, nothing extreme, going a good 55-60. The shaking started slow like normal, then built. After 400 yards I hit a flat for about a mile. The shaking got bad enough that I took the exit. This time, when I gradually braked, I could feel a firm pulsing in the brake pedal. The pulse was fast, and as I pumped the brakes over about 200 yards, and my speed dropped, the shaking disapated and was gone by the time I hit 35mph. The pulsing in the pedal continued (slowing over time) until I came to a complete stop. When I got going again, it was business as usual on the highway and the shaking didnt come back.

WHAT THE F*** IS THIS!!!?????!!!!!
 
I think something is loose, but not sure why it would go away. It doesn't sound like a tire defect, but it might be worth combing over your tires for any bulges- sidewalls and road surface area. Could swap on a set from work to see if it goes away. Usually out of phase tires would be a side to side steering wheel.

The pedal pulsing could be another issue entirely, unless it only happens with the other thing happens.. maybe a loose brake component?
 
I think something is loose, but not sure why it would go away. It doesn't sound like a tire defect, but it might be worth combing over your tires for any bulges- sidewalls and road surface area. Could swap on a set from work to see if it goes away. Usually out of phase tires would be a side to side steering wheel.

The pedal pulsing could be another issue entirely, unless it only happens with the other thing happens.. maybe a loose brake component?

I just checked the tires and they all look fine.

Im starting to think its the suspension. Whats really strange is that it used to happen much more frequently. Before I changed the transmission and rebuilt the T-case it would happen every other day, now it happens once or twice a month....... So at first I though "AHA! It was something loose in the trany!" then about a week or two after the swap it happened again and I knew I hadnt solved it. Im 80% sure I replaced the tie-rod ends when we rebuilt the front end, but I'll check my records to be sure. Do you guys think that could be the issue????

This is just so annoying and somewhat frightening when it happens and I REALLY need to figure out what it is. I might pull the tires off the front and check the lugs to be sure they are straight, that the wheel is seated correctly, and that the nuts are tight enough.

Some part of me is praying its something to do with the engine or motor mounts and it will resolve itself when I do my diesel swap...... But I know thats HIGHLY unlikely
 
pulsating at the wheel or pedals usually means warped/ worn rotors or need to resurface. do check your suspension and brake calipers to see all is thight. I would also check for play at both front wheels at 12 oclock, and 6 oclock.
 
pulsating at the wheel or pedals usually means warped/ worn rotors or need to resurface. do check your suspension and brake calipers to see all is thight. I would also check for play at both front wheels at 12 oclock, and 6 oclock.

But my rotors and calipers are only 4 months old!!!!

I'll check the wheel play
 
Wheel / trunion bearings. I had very, very similar symptoms when my wheel bearings got loose.
 
My driver's side seat is really going to hell fast. Iv sewed it up 3 or 4 times now and the tears just keep popping up. Other than that I find the lack of lumbar support really uncomfortable on long trips. Does anyone have any suggestions for replacement seats? I dont think Ill go OEM. I'v heard good things about subaru WRX seats, and BMW 3-series seats.

Im looking for something that doesnt completely clash with the rest of the rig so I'll stick with cloth seats. Im not afraid of fabricating a system to bolt them in, so mechanical compatibility isnt too much of an issue as long as they fit between the E-brake and the wall.

Suggestions welcome!
 
Just read your whole thread way to go man! This is coming together quickly! I worked at mudraks last year and built my soa fj62 with h55f whilst working there! Now Im starting another fj62 build, so ill be stopping by soon! Please give my best to Chema and Gary. Tell Chema ill be bringing some rakija (croatian firewater) soon! XD
-Luka Sertic
 
Just read your whole thread way to go man! This is coming together quickly! I worked at mudraks last year and built my soa fj62 with h55f whilst working there! Now Im starting another fj62 build, so ill be stopping by soon! Please give my best to Chema and Gary. Tell Chema ill be bringing some rakija (croatian firewater) soon! XD
-Luka Sertic

Oh man Chema will LOVE that! I work friday afternoons and all day saturday, looking forward to meeting you!
 
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1400363319.425992.webp


Did some work on a BRONCO today!
(I didn't think we let fords in to Mudrak.....)
This bronco was awesome. Full resto and off-body

I updated the coolant system and replaced a leaking radiator.
 
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