1985 Minitruck 1UZ swap - Bed mounted radiator - Ideas? (1 Viewer)

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Box Rocket

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I've been researching this for a few months now and trying to get a good knowledge of how to approach this but I wanted to solicit ideas from the group here also. I've searched existing threads here, I've searched Pirate and read through just about all I could find there (some was helpful, a lot was just noise) and I've looked at lots of different race car and trophy truck setups to get ideas.

Here's some context. I've got an '85 minitruck with a flatbed that I've been building with my son. We're close to completing a 1UZ swap, which is the main reason for the radiator relocation. Most people that have done this motor swap in one of these trucks either do some firewall clearancing and/or a bodylift to get the motor positioned back far enough to fit a radiator in the standard location in front of the motor. I didn't want to do a body lift, and also didn't want to mangle the firewall. Additionally, even if I had done either of those options the room in front of the motor was still very tight to fit a good radiator and fan, but more importantly was so tight that replacing the belts would have been nearly impossible without dropping the radiator. So...here I am with the obvious (although a bit inconvenient) solution of moving the radiator to the bed. I'm not opposed to it being behind the cab on this truck but have a few questions/concerns.

First off, I could use any suggestions from anyone reading this about things to do or things to avoid, materials to use for plumbing, parts suggestions etc.

I currently have 3 radiators I can use. I have a factory radiator from a '96 Tacoma (used) I could use but I also have a generic 3-core radiator from Summit (new) and a aftermarket radiator for a 1KZ hilux (new, and recommended by a number of individuals that have done 1UZ swaps in Australia and NZ). I'm leaning toward using the 1KZ radiator since it's the largest and building a shroud to house twin Taurus electric fans. I think that should move enough air to compensate for the radiator not being up front and getting the benefit of airflow from the moving truck. I think I'm going to use stainless tubing for the plumbing to the rear of the truck, but I've heard of many people using galvanized fence posts without issue. The fence posts will obviously be cheaper. Does this approach sound like a bad idea to anyone? What would you change?

Couple of questions:
1: This will likely by my son's daily driver for a while. Are there any concerns with the radiator and electric fans being more exposed to the elements that they would be in a traditional front mount setup? For example, if the fans get covered in snow is it going to hurt anything? Don't think so, but wanted to check.
2: Those with experience using Taurus fans, do you think dual Taurus fans will move enough air to cool the V8 in a location that would have the same airflow as a front mounted setup?

Any other thoughts or ideas would be appreciated!

Here's the truck. The motor is in and mated to a A340F automatic from a 4Runner and a single 4.7 geared tcase. I just need to get the cooling system and fuel system sorted to finish it up. Some fuel system questions might get asked later on.

Don't judge too much here, this is just after getting the motor placed. It's much cleaner in there now.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
Cool build so I'm going to follow along. What front fenders are you running? They're huge.

I have zero experience putting a radiator in the bed but I remember a build where a booster pump was needed for coolant flow. With all the research you have done I would guess you have this handled one way or another.
 
Cool build so I'm going to follow along. What front fenders are you running? They're huge.

I have zero experience putting a radiator in the bed but I remember a build where a booster pump was needed for coolant flow. With all the research you have done I would guess you have this handled one way or another.
Fenders are Hanneman fiberglass. Not sure you can still get these, but the same style is also sold by ToyotaFiberglass.com and a couple others I think.

The jury is out on a booster pump. I've heard it's needed, and I've heard it's not. More people saying it's not necessary so I'm leaning that way at the moment.
 
Unfortunately no experience with rear mounted rads but you had me at hilux + 1uz... :popcorn:
 
In my race car I used a Griffin Radiator with dual elec Spal fans and their shroud. plug and play. I used the correct size exhaust pipe to run the coolant from the front to the back, had exhaust shop bend the pipe but you could weld elbows together. Then use the proper silicone or rubber radiator hoses to connect it all. It takes a little while to bleed, may need a steam port on your engine?? Keeps my LS happy!
 
I have done a few rear mounted rads and I have found that putting a shrader valve on the four highest corners helps when it comes to bleeding the system out. I like using the jeep xj rads as they are wide and short. They fit nicely into behind the seats in a few buggies I have helped out with and cool pretty well. Also the inlet and outlet are on either side so running the coolant down one side and up the other works out pretty well.
On my sons buggy we ran the coolant in the two main frame tubes at the bottom of the chassis. Maybe you could run the coolant tubes inside the frame ?
 
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Thanks for the input so far. I like the idea of the shraeder valves to help bleed the system. @matzell thanks for the response. I'll take a look at the Griffin rad and Spal fan setup. That could be a good solution. I still need to sort out exactly where I'm going to put it and sizing. Been planning on the 1KZ rad but I'm not married to it. It's pretty tall and a wider/shorter radiator could be a better solution.

Would love any additional input from anyone that has any.
 
Another option would be to cut the core support and stuff the rad in there. A few inches forward of the usual mounting. Seen it done before but still requires some added support up front.
 
I would build some sort of shroud above the fan to prevent snow from accumulating on/into it. I can’t see water or snow hurting the fan unless it got packed in there tight enough to prevent it from turning and you live somewhere that can get a lot of snow. Example, you park the truck and then snow melts down in and freezes as the truck cools potentially seizing up the fan at restart.
 
I would build some sort of shroud above the fan to prevent snow from accumulating on/into it. I can’t see water or snow hurting the fan unless it got packed in there tight enough to prevent it from turning and you live somewhere that can get a lot of snow. Example, you park the truck and then snow melts down in and freezes as the truck cools potentially seizing up the fan at restart.
This is kinda what I have planned as well. I've even looking at putting the radiator under the bed but I want to be sure it can get enough airflow. But some kind of cover to keep rain/snow from freezing and restricting the fans from turning would be key.



Just a few ideas.
Thanks for that.
 
Are you absolutely sure you can't sneak a rad up front? Mine is fairly small with a single 12" fan. My car will get hot towards the end of a session, but never in normal driving.

20210807_151804.jpg
 
Are you absolutely sure you can't sneak a rad up front? Mine is fairly small with a single 12" fan. My car will get hot towards the end of a session, but never in normal driving.

View attachment 3234798
The only way I could fit it up front is to cut out the core support and move it forward. If I put a radiator and fan up front it will be so close to the front of the motor that I would have to pull the radiator to change the belts. I'm not wanting to be forced to do that.
 

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