1981 Pick-up Build (5 Viewers)

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I'd truss it but you can always do later especially since you're down to hours to get the thing trail ready. We can always do a mudship via GSMTR if needed.

Speaking of, you still want my old interior cage? I can throw in the back of the truck for next weekend.
 
Got roped into the garden today, so the truck is still sitting on jack stands. So, I'll be looking for a seat next weekend as I'm traveling on business this week.

Ted - I think I'll pass on the cage given the mods I'd likely have to do. I've got enough on my plate as it is. I appreciate the offer though.

I may take you up on the tire transport. Let me talk more with Rocky before we go too far down that road.
 
Got some work done today.

Mocked up the axle and pseudo-flexed it checking my shackle angles.
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Added a piece of 3/16 angle to help align the hanger, make up the gap along the front crossmember, and add some surface for welding.

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Got the hanger burned in and all the components painted.

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And got some unexpected help cleaning up 34 yrs of rust and dirt.

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Now once the paint dries, the axle will find its home again under the truck.

Next task: power steering.
 
Hit a milestone tonight which feels pretty good. I needed to make some progress to keep me motivated. Problem is that I don't think the 33s are going to cut it.

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And I think I got the shackle angle pretty good. I might need to get a little longer shackle as it might bottom out on the frame in compression.

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Ted - I just read through the first 12 pgs of your build, and if I'd known I was going down the same road I would have put my money toward lottery tickets. Based upon your progression, I hope to keep the mods as I currently envision and try and get addicted to something else to keep me from continuing to tinker on this thing.

I do think I'm going to need some 35s though - sh*t...it's already happening.
 
Ted - I just read through the first 12 pgs of your build, and if I'd known I was going down the same road I would have put my money toward lottery tickets. Based upon your progression, I hope to keep the mods as I currently envision and try and get addicted to something else to keep me from continuing to tinker on this thing.

I do think I'm going to need some 35s though - sh*t...it's already happening.

yup, sounds like it. Do yourself a favor, jump to the last pages and go ahead and exo the thing now because pretty soon Durhamtown isn't going to hold your attention. A trailer and tow rig might be creeping up the list too. :slap:
 
Can't decide if I need to move the box forward more. Its close to parallel but probably only an inch of clearance. If I'm gonna move it, it's going to be a pain in the arse.

What do y'all think?
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I'm a crappy person to respond, my truck was built to run 37s originally and you see how that worked out. So, it all depends on where this is going? If the plan is to stop at 35s then you're probably fine. If the plan is t go bigger one day then you're probably going to want to move the axle forward.
 
The clearance between the two arms or axle and the arms, or the spring and the pitman arm? I'd say as long as they don't bind from lock to lock and the pitman doesn't hit the springs at full compression then you should be fine.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I cycled the suspension and everything clears. Worst case, I may end up with a flat pitman arm. I did move the axle forward ~ 1-3" as based on the shock tower mounts.

I got the PS pump bracket welded on today and started mocking up the front shock towers. Hopefully I'll make some more progress tomorrow and will have some pics.
 
Not much progress but did a little mock up.

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Front end things to finish:
-Weld on shock hoops
-Paint brackets, steering links, etc
-hook up steering shaft to pump
-mount PS steering res and attach lines
-torque bolts to spec
-install bump stops - I'll probably wait til it's drivable so I can flex it out better to determine placement
-probably end up swapping stock shackles for some boomerangs but I'm waiting on this.

Then it's off to the rear which I'm cautiously optimistic will be pretty easy and quick.
 
The front is finally done minus hooking up the PS lines and figuring out shocks. Wish I could go to gsmtr as I think I'll probably be done by next week.

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Wish I could go to gsmtr as I think I'll probably be done by next week.

Looks good, Do it!! GSMTR gonna be a blast.
 
As much fun as it sounds like will be had, I don't think my first shake down run should be a 4.5hr drive + several days of wheeling + 4.5hr drive home. I probably got a little ahead of myself anyway - I think I'm going to get bogged down in buttoning up all of the little things.

In regard to this and for those adding power steering (at least with the TG kit), TG did not supply, and my PS box did not come with, a low pressure outlet fitting. So I got to looking around, and the Pirate Bible indicated to use these fittings available from PSC (high pressure outlet on left, low pressure outlet on right):
PSC_PS Box outlets.JPG

Well the problem is that the TG hose kit does not have a threaded fitting for the PS Box side. So, I got to looking further and found this which is an easier option:
OEM PS Box Low Pressure Return.JPG


I got pissed off because the shipping was more than the parts, so I tried to source the fitting directly from Toyota. Well apparently they don't sell these fittings independently (at least that is what the hack parts counter guy said). So, I have to wait on more parts to ship across the country to get the steering buttoned up.
 
Not super knowledgeable about differentials, but this deal seems kind of interesting. Given the damage, does anyone have any thoughts on any potential damage that could have occurred to the ARB? Thinking about going to take a look - anything that I should be looking for specifically to diagnose the condition of the ARB? I'm geared 4.88, so I don't care about the gears.

https://athensga.craigslist.org/pts/4990018297.html

Edit: I just spoke with the seller and he said that 1 of the 4 pins in the locker came loose and caused the damage to the pinion gear. I'll do some more research, but I would appreciate anyone's thoughts potential damage/problems to the ARB.
 
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Someone with more extensive knowledge with ARB's can weigh in, but if the cross-shaft came out then the retainer wasn't installed properly or it loosened up and backed out. The damage to the case could be superficial or it could be major. If the pins backed out it could have allowed the spider gears to move which could have caused damage to the internals of the locker as well as what you see on the outside of the case.

I'd try to air test it, but the real damage won't be known until it is opened up and examined. Parts could put you at the cost of a new unit before it was over.
 
jynx has better knowledge than I do but if you do go that route I'd be interested in the 5.29 R&P set assuming they're still usable.

edit: oops, just looked at the 2nd pic. :bang:
 
Thanks for the words of caution Jynx. With that said, I did a fair bit of reading and it sounds like this failure was common with the older ARB lockers that weren't set up properly. The cross pin would loosen and get into the pinion gear. A new pin is ~ $60 and in many instance online ARB warrantied it for free. I'm going to take a look and see if there is any additional damage to the rest of the parts. Given that I'm already set up for air lockers (although it has been a historic problem) I may take the risk.

Ted- it sounds like the ring gear is fine and you are welcome to it if it isn't damaged.
 
Picked up the potential expensive paper weight today - got it for $300 (we'll see if that ends of up being a good deal or not). Had it air checked and it simply looks like one of the seal housing o-rings is leaking. My main concern is the damage that occurred to the case, but I hope that is superficial. I spoke with ARB and they will rebuild the locker with the required new parts with no labor charge. Worst case scenario, I think I end up with an ARB for about 50% of a new unit.

Now it's time to start breaking birfs!

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