- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Threads
- 265
- Messages
- 9,822
- Location
- Ashland, OR
- Website
- www.jeffersonstatecruisers.com
Well hopefully you solved your problem..... But I know that simply making a decision can be the hardest part.... 
1980 Beater Build!!
- Thread starter 4x4 Station Wagon
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #142
I need to correct something I stated and will go back and edit referring it to this post. The last thing I want to do is be responsible for giving someone bad info:
You can see how generic advanced adapters info is. I now realize the 1.090 is the OD and the id is the difference which will not work for me. I need a steel bushing that reduces the diameter of the crank pilot opening or increases the OD of the pilot bearing... however you want to look at that. As mentioned before AA doesnt list it (Part number 716155) on their site but refers many adapters to needing it so I guess it must be something they have on their shelf just not on the website. I will find out tomorrow
You can see how generic advanced adapters info is. I now realize the 1.090 is the OD and the id is the difference which will not work for me. I need a steel bushing that reduces the diameter of the crank pilot opening or increases the OD of the pilot bearing... however you want to look at that. As mentioned before AA doesnt list it (Part number 716155) on their site but refers many adapters to needing it so I guess it must be something they have on their shelf just not on the website. I will find out tomorrow
- Thread starter
- #143
Contacted AA today and they had 32 of the #716155 steel sleves that are intended to adapt the 99 and up GM cranks to the smaller GM crank pilot hole size. For $27.xx I said send me one..... Later to add on $13.xx in shipping so on the flip side I have 41 more reasons to stick to a 22R for you guys!! For 41 maybe I should have fired up the lathe.
In however many years 3-4? on this site I have seen advise given and the requestor simply ignores it and asks 20 more questions. Chop Shop/2nd Gen I want to point out that I respect your advice and actually agree and would not go back down this path if I didnt already have 95% of the parts. Hopefully you will not roll your eyes at me and continue to help where you can. Honestly I rolled my eyes at the others and each time wanted to say THEY TOLD YOU SO.....
For 41 maybe I should have fired up the lathe.In however many years 3-4? on this site I have seen advise given and the requestor simply ignores it and asks 20 more questions. Chop Shop/2nd Gen I want to point out that I respect your advice and actually agree and would not go back down this path if I didnt already have 95% of the parts. Hopefully you will not roll your eyes at me and continue to help where you can. Honestly I rolled my eyes at the others and each time wanted to say THEY TOLD YOU SO.....
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Threads
- 265
- Messages
- 9,822
- Location
- Ashland, OR
- Website
- www.jeffersonstatecruisers.com
I don't blame you for forging ahead... Fingers crossed that it's not much more $$$ for you! 
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2009
- Threads
- 35
- Messages
- 1,603
- Location
- Southern Oregon
- Website
- www.fjcruiserforums.com
..
..
..
- Thread starter
- #146
2 bolts away from lifting the 20r tranny and t-case back out. I would say I just officialy threw in the towel for the rest of this mud season. 
I didnt have much of a choice anyway my throw out bearing was screaming everytime I touched the clutch. I knew this was temporary so I threw in old used parts. It would have been a lesson learned if I wasnt pulling it back out anyway. Don't laugh at the air filter its all I had at the time. Back when I was having MPG problems I borrowed a stock housing and filter and it was no difference.
I didnt have much of a choice anyway my throw out bearing was screaming everytime I touched the clutch. I knew this was temporary so I threw in old used parts. It would have been a lesson learned if I wasnt pulling it back out anyway. Don't laugh at the air filter its all I had at the time. Back when I was having MPG problems I borrowed a stock housing and filter and it was no difference.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2009
- Threads
- 35
- Messages
- 1,603
- Location
- Southern Oregon
- Website
- www.fjcruiserforums.com
I think the Air filter fits the truck!
- Thread starter
- #148
................................
- Thread starter
- #149
41 dollar pilot reducer showed up today. It wasnt lathed out of gold after all. It is about 3/8-7/16" thick. I would have expected a wider bushing as the extended pilot is probably 1.5" long if I had to guess. They are machined surfaces obviously so it probably isnt a problem and will most likely support the extended pilot in alignment.
- Thread starter
- #150
The bushing above measures .400 thick with a 1.707 OD and a 1.092 ID. I swung by an acquaintances house that has put the exact same motor in a samurai even though he used and auto and most likely had not been through my challenges. Come to find out he had just pulled the auto and was working on a manual. I was able to share this pilot bearing difference as well as I brought over an appropriate bolt pattern standard 168 externally balanced flywheel and compared it to the flywheel that he had that came with these types of motors and there are a lot of differences. For one the v6 flywheel was way heavier! I had read about that due to torque. We also noticed about a 1/16th of an inch difference in the v6 flywheel being thicker as well as maybe a slight bolt flange backspacing difference. It is definitely going to be a trial and error with a throwout bearing for proper clearance/throw but looks attainable.
- Thread starter
- #151
What a difference in weight moving the 20r out of the way and the 4.3 over there...... No clutch or flywheel in there just mocked so I can put it and make mounts. Then I will yank it back out and weld everything up where I can get to it. I had been wondering if the 20r was a tooth off. I pulled the cover and yep the whole time my 20r was a tooth off. Surely the answer to my MPG problems. It ran good a tooth off. Probably would have ran great if it wasnt
- Thread starter
- #152
It would fit with the long water pump on it and with a short pump it is going to be fairly decent. The exhaust will be less than fun. I will be amazed if I do not have to do sometype of redneck hood scoop to allow the air filter to clear but I am not willing to drop the motor anymore as I refuse to limit any uptravel due to this swap. The 4.3 motor mounts line up with the factory toyota mounts. I think I am going to be able to adapt to the factory mounts with out it being oakie.
- Thread starter
- #153
Here is my attempt at that. I traced the factory mounting flanges for both the 4.3 as well as the toyota. Now I will use some poly bushings and tube with a couple tabs. Of course I can only find 3 of the 4 needed poly bushings laying around
I am not sold on this idea even though I have cut them out. I may modify the chevy mount to accept the stock toyota rubber motor mount and then chain it down fairly tightly. I do not mind the thought of vibration when I am on it but idling and putting around not so much. 
I am trying to get this mocked quickly as I just ran out of spare time. My friend was voted alternate for the top truck challenge so we are ripping his motor out so we can raise it as well as the drive train, installing the Rockwell's, building new wheels, new links, tying up a few loose ends to ensure we can pass the safety inspection, etc. Then after all of that work we will be
Hoping he gets a chance to compete
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #154
So I know this is a toyota site but thought I would post a quicky as to confirm the possible lazyness of my future progress. We had to run out today and winch the rockwells onto the trailer for the upgrade to the willy. My friend spent 900 dollars on just rockwell parts today anywhere from perches to diff mohawks, to link brackets, pinion disc brakes, etc. TTC here we come!
- Thread starter
- #155
I came home to find the flywheel I needed sitting on my porch. 
I am very excited and owe that friend a huge favor. As you can see from a distance it looks similar to the standard externally balanced 168 tooth flywheel
But here is the back of the standard flywheel
Here is the backside of the v6 flwheel you can see how much heavier it is and trust me you can feel it as well. It was intended to increase the torque on the v6s. More importantly the flywheel is in deed about a 1/16 thicker than the regular style.
I am not intending to state the standard one will not work and you MUST get the one that came on them I am only saying I didnt want to take the chance and wouldnt mind the weight in hopes to take an act of congress to pull the life out of the motor with that chunk of flywheel
I am very excited and owe that friend a huge favor. As you can see from a distance it looks similar to the standard externally balanced 168 tooth flywheelBut here is the back of the standard flywheel
Here is the backside of the v6 flwheel you can see how much heavier it is and trust me you can feel it as well. It was intended to increase the torque on the v6s. More importantly the flywheel is in deed about a 1/16 thicker than the regular style.
I am not intending to state the standard one will not work and you MUST get the one that came on them I am only saying I didnt want to take the chance and wouldnt mind the weight in hopes to take an act of congress to pull the life out of the motor with that chunk of flywheel
- Thread starter
- #156
well i am not sure if I stuck to my goal and didnt go ghetto on the mounts but I trimmed the ears off of the stock toyota mounts that mount to the 22r motor as well as cut and drilled motor mount pads for the SBC standard triangle and then just trimmed until I finally got the right fit for both sides. I then welded the factory trimmed toyota piece to the pad I built. It didnt take long and it is solid. I will certainly chain these as toyota mounts are not the strongest in the world but I have not heard of any failing when chained.
I do atleast think I accomplished two of my goals:
1. I shouldnt have vibs due to poly bushings as I was going to use
2. If this doesnt work out I can simply go back to a 22r as I did not have to cut the factory mounts off the frame.
I also cut my crossmember mounts back off and relocated it as well as cut the previous tranny mount off and welded the newer tranny mount on my tube crossmember. So,,,,, At this point the engine tranny and tcase are in. I am almost ready to pull it all back out and weld/clean it up. I just need to check exhaust manifold clearance first
I do atleast think I accomplished two of my goals:
1. I shouldnt have vibs due to poly bushings as I was going to use
2. If this doesnt work out I can simply go back to a 22r as I did not have to cut the factory mounts off the frame.
I also cut my crossmember mounts back off and relocated it as well as cut the previous tranny mount off and welded the newer tranny mount on my tube crossmember. So,,,,, At this point the engine tranny and tcase are in. I am almost ready to pull it all back out and weld/clean it up. I just need to check exhaust manifold clearance first
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #157
I have been swamped with trying to get ready for top truck challenge. I have not worked on my toyota at all. We have been at it everynight after work till 10 to 11 and weekends daylight to midnight or last night 2:30 am painting.
But in the meantime I have ordered some parts. I picked this distributor up on ebay pretty cheap it is suppose to have good juice and a friend has ran one with good luck so far on quality.
I also just ordered the Centerforce disc and pressure plate as I was only going to save a small amount trying to piece junk together. I didnt want a cheap tacoma disc as I have read a lot of issues with them. A factory was as much as the CF disc. I found the disc and pressure plate for 280 new at I think streetsideauto.com and I googled a discount coupon that saved a couple more bucks. That trick has been working fairly well lately
But in the meantime I have ordered some parts. I picked this distributor up on ebay pretty cheap it is suppose to have good juice and a friend has ran one with good luck so far on quality.
I also just ordered the Centerforce disc and pressure plate as I was only going to save a small amount trying to piece junk together. I didnt want a cheap tacoma disc as I have read a lot of issues with them. A factory was as much as the CF disc. I found the disc and pressure plate for 280 new at I think streetsideauto.com and I googled a discount coupon that saved a couple more bucks. That trick has been working fairly well lately
- Thread starter
- #158
I had a few minutes today of not working on my friends jeep so I pulled the 4.3 back out today. I drained the oil in my mystery motor and it had a magnetic drain plug which looked great! That had me a bit fired up so I flipped it over on the engine stand and pulled the pan along with one main bearing. First off inside of the crank case was spotless and the bearing looked shy of new! I have pulled the main caps and examined bearings at least 10 times in my life and lets just say I am very excited right now! Centerforce pressure plate showed up today as well.
- Thread starter
- #159
A while back I posted on my build as well as chat and asked for some help getting my friend and I voted into 2011 Top Truck Challenge since he had gotten lucky enough to make the top 50. I am not sure if it helped at all but regardless we were voted in. We just got back from Hollister, CA and I am happy to say we won. So thank you very much if you voted for us. Now I can get back to this build as well as my FJ40......
I am going to go to the chat page and post a thank you on that old request as well.
I am going to go to the chat page and post a thank you on that old request as well.
- Thread starter
- #160
A good friend of mine has been having yota troubles on a 22re since he bought his truck a couple years ago. It started out with a bad clutch which I replaced for 
. Since he purchased the yota it would start up and run fine but soon would idle terrible and in the mountains on steep hills (just typical logging gravel roads) at times we would wonder if it was going to pull first gear to the top.... He has had it looked at by a few back yard yota gurus of which one de smogged it. I have given it a tune up for him a couple months ago but still no luck. It runs and drives fine on the street but any steep gravel hill in the mountains and you think you are going to have to pull over and put it in 4 low. He has been asking me to look at it but I have been tied up with TTC. He dropped it off tonight and I checked the obvious... Cam timing yep, distributor at 11 oclock at TDC yep, plug wires right yep, I have been trying to avoid a compression check as a last ditch effort because the PO advised it had a questionable heli coil in one of the spark plug holes. I got to looking at it and 
all of the exhaust valves were tight! as in way tight (full turn). I called the neighbor over to ensure I wasnt crazy and we adjusted them up. We took it out for a test drive, got it warm, and pulled up our steepest local hill lugging in second gear high or spinning on demand in 1st which is where a 4 cylinder yota with 31s should be. How did it not burn valves since it has been this way for a couple of years???????????
As far as my personal yota project goes I pulled all the main caps and some rod caps and the bearings are all in really good shape but since i am in there I ordered bearings and gaskets. I also purchased a new short water pump. I scored a 4 core alluminium vertical tank radiator the other day that is just a bit to wide to sit between the frame rails. It is the exact same height as the stock radiator so my thought is that I am hoping I will be able to angle the radiator forward clearing the hood and creating enough room that I can recess my winch..... I am about 6% confident that I will pull this off but if I do I am going to have a pretty wicked approach angle. I also need to use up my 500$ gift cert for superior axle and gear that we won at TTC so I am thinking gears. I hate to do it prior to getting the yota up and running but I think it is more less between 4.88s and 5.29s. My train of thought has always been that 4.88s were tough and 5.29s were possible to survive but 5.71s were toast. According to all my internet searches, local input, as well as superior the 5.29s still have 2 teeth contacting the ring gear as do the 4.88s unlike the 5.71s not that I would even consider them. So sinced I am most likely going to take my opportunity to get swampers at cost and agree with a fellow ih8mudder who recently told me that 38.5s were the perfect yota size yet I will be slightly pushing my luck up to a 39.5x14 irok with the thought that they are both fairly true to their size and 1" wont kill me. Any advice on the gear selection??? 4.88 or 5.29s? Again this is with a 4.3 vortec. I will be running a v6 tranny not the turbo that has the lower first.
. Since he purchased the yota it would start up and run fine but soon would idle terrible and in the mountains on steep hills (just typical logging gravel roads) at times we would wonder if it was going to pull first gear to the top.... He has had it looked at by a few back yard yota gurus of which one de smogged it. I have given it a tune up for him a couple months ago but still no luck. It runs and drives fine on the street but any steep gravel hill in the mountains and you think you are going to have to pull over and put it in 4 low. He has been asking me to look at it but I have been tied up with TTC. He dropped it off tonight and I checked the obvious... Cam timing yep, distributor at 11 oclock at TDC yep, plug wires right yep, I have been trying to avoid a compression check as a last ditch effort because the PO advised it had a questionable heli coil in one of the spark plug holes. I got to looking at it and all of the exhaust valves were tight! as in way tight (full turn). I called the neighbor over to ensure I wasnt crazy and we adjusted them up. We took it out for a test drive, got it warm, and pulled up our steepest local hill lugging in second gear high or spinning on demand in 1st which is where a 4 cylinder yota with 31s should be. How did it not burn valves since it has been this way for a couple of years??????????? As far as my personal yota project goes I pulled all the main caps and some rod caps and the bearings are all in really good shape but since i am in there I ordered bearings and gaskets. I also purchased a new short water pump. I scored a 4 core alluminium vertical tank radiator the other day that is just a bit to wide to sit between the frame rails. It is the exact same height as the stock radiator so my thought is that I am hoping I will be able to angle the radiator forward clearing the hood and creating enough room that I can recess my winch..... I am about 6% confident that I will pull this off but if I do I am going to have a pretty wicked approach angle. I also need to use up my 500$ gift cert for superior axle and gear that we won at TTC so I am thinking gears. I hate to do it prior to getting the yota up and running but I think it is more less between 4.88s and 5.29s. My train of thought has always been that 4.88s were tough and 5.29s were possible to survive but 5.71s were toast. According to all my internet searches, local input, as well as superior the 5.29s still have 2 teeth contacting the ring gear as do the 4.88s unlike the 5.71s not that I would even consider them. So sinced I am most likely going to take my opportunity to get swampers at cost and agree with a fellow ih8mudder who recently told me that 38.5s were the perfect yota size yet I will be slightly pushing my luck up to a 39.5x14 irok with the thought that they are both fairly true to their size and 1" wont kill me. Any advice on the gear selection??? 4.88 or 5.29s? Again this is with a 4.3 vortec. I will be running a v6 tranny not the turbo that has the lower first.