Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration

[dmaddox]

I apologize for the terrible photo - the cruiser is incredible difficult to move by myself and the lighting in my horrible garage is garbage, but this shows the installed side cover (oh, and the new motor mounts and hardware):

Well, next is the shameful grime-ball lurking in the corner of my garage:

This is AFTER powerwashing:

The FSM (No. 98154) calls for SST [09330-00020], or in my case, a chunk of curtain rod with two holes drilled in it:

To protect the threads on the studs, use tape or bike tire tubing:

 

[Curtice]

Your transmission and tcase look way better than mine did after powerwashing. There is some grime I couldn't get off no matter what. Also, love the SST - i'm gonna use that!

 

[dmaddox]

I wonder if the seals were bad? And yes, I was a giant doof and drained the trans, but forgot to drain the t-case. It is drained now. Luckily I had a paint tray nearby to catch the rest. My wife asked "what is that foul smell?" He he he.....

SST [00CurtainRod] in action:

Following along in the FSM, disassembling the transfer case, using the seal/bearing driver to punch out bearings and races:

Quick work of the throw-out bearing as well:

Out with the old, in with the new:

 

[dmaddox]

Clutch fork spiffed up:

T-case disassembled, ready for cleaning and inspection:

Hot soapy water and scrubbing. A buddy of mine here on mud said this builds character. That it does!

Heavier grime required the trusty toothbrush and mineral spirits:

More scrubbing and cleaning:

 

[Curtice]

Are you going to repaint your tcase, or just clean it up really well?

 

[dmaddox]

I am still debating on what to do there. The aluminum is cleaning up very nicely. I have seen quite a few high temp coatings that will work on aluminum, but if I do choose something I would want it to be a gloss, so that it can be easily cleaned. Any of the aluminum paints I have used (even two part) are pretty flat and porous. The problem with that is the second grease gets flung on it or you splash through an oily puddle, cleaning it will be tough. You could of course power-wash, but then you'd want to use a 2 part epoxy paint so that when you power wash it, it doesn't flake off.

Great question, still kicking this one around. I'll make a decision soon and update shortly.

 

[SteveH]

How about a high temp engine type clear coat spray over the clean aluminum? It won't yellow under the truck due to UV.

 

[dmaddox]

Great idea (high temp clear). I love eastwood products, and due to them being close I pretty much get next day service. I was eyeballing a few products, includings Eastwood Matte Silver High-Temp Ceramic Coating. However I will probably shy away from a paint, because of the difficulty in spraying and also, the unnatural look. However, the clear idea is great! More soon on how this will come together.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Sweet Sharp prep work Dallas !

Post kleaning , I get all aluminum parts media blasted , just my OCLD .....
“ obsessive compulsive land cruisers disorder “ step I must have done

then I do use and apply several light to medium mist coats of Clear Engine enamel ceramic based

this will give you a day 1 some time back in 1978
PLANT A11 look and feel that will last well into the future ....

its a timeless look and fits your build based on our
Numerous discussions on the topic

Now let’s take the PLANT A11 day 1 look a step further for a moment shall we ...

Any and all new OEM silver , yellow , gold or other plated new or restored hardware and related metal
Objects I install on and in the whole engine or power train chassis topic get 2 pre-install coats of
The engine ceramic clear for starts

then a final mist coat or 2 post install

this seals in the deal PUN intended !


your proudly placed with care fasteners like our special plated special jis P2 hex Phillips side cover screws can be now preserved and there Timeless & sharp current look for the foreseeable future ....

DO NoT use any clear exhaust paints aerosols they yellow in my experience....

just engine enamel med temp type

remember powertrain chassis parts like your t case and trans do not see and super high heat Like a cylinder head for example

Lastly : a word of wisdom ...

ceramic Engine clear in particular is and has MEGA
Toxic poison fumes !

you must wear a 3-m mask with the triangle removable charcoal filters on it to survive .

if not your wife will find you on the floor passed out
From fumes

Fans and open air are the best method here

just my experience from passing out and wife calling 911 years ago doing all above first time


but all well worth it in the end when the AISIN cast alloy Pops like PLANT A11 day 1 !

Again looks sharp Dallas can’t wait to see more progress

also , last tidbit , obtain a tube of 00295-01281
Factory transaxle sealer the orange semi hardening
Fipg , assemble all gear box new gaskets and all parking brake splines and face to face parts with it
You will have zero leaks or seeps of any kind

I never do

 

[dmaddox]

Now that I am conscious from paint fumes (lol, Matt!), I need some transfercase advice and help.

I am at Fig. 3-141 and upon inspection of the teeth, am a little concerned. Further, let me add that there was a persistent "buzz" from the t-case that was incredibly annoying, and required holding onto the shifter or a passenger leg rested against it to shut it up.

Ok, back to the FSM on Fig. 3-141:

What I am concerned about how "groovy" and not in a good way the gears are!?

Here is the Low Speed Output Gear:

Here is the High Speed Output gear:

I thought that perhaps there was a burr on the Idler Gears?? The smaller of the two only has a little groove:

I have never rebuild a t-case, but this (based on the photos in the FSM) doesn't look normal - and I can only guess this could potentially cause some buzzing/vibration.

What is strange is that I can't see/locate anything in there that would cause these grooves/wear pattern.

I need some advice and thoughts on how to proceed.

Thank you.

 

[Ocho77]

Just read your whole thread. Sorry that you are dealing with what you are dealing with. How frustrating and disheartening. Pretty impressive how you are remedying the situation. It's looking amazing and will definitely be a hit at 'Carburetors and Coffee', no doubt.

 

[dmaddox]

All is well Ocho77. I am over the loss. The only thing that bugs me now, is that I am into this thing 40K and I am seeing some really sharp FJ40's for that kind of money, even some survivors, you know?

With that being said, I have wanted to give up on this thing multiple times. But, I look for inspiration along the way from the people on 'mud, friends I have collected along the way, who have contributed massive amounts of data and photos I consume daily, and shows like Petrolicious on youtube.

I am estimating probably about a year before I finish this, so next fall I should be good to go. Thank you for the kind words and message.

I am knee deep in transfer case. I should be able to post something soon. Happy Friday everyone.

PS. I am finding the manuals about 75% helpful, a lot of detail left out or no photo. Which means 5% ingenuity/experience and 20% luck.

 

[Curtice]

Lol you made me feel so much better when you said "I am into this thing $40K" . Right there with you...

 

[dmaddox]

lol - including the purchase of the vehicle im well into the 30's, out of sheer annoyances I will round up to the nearest 10k, lol. Not counting the 100's of hours!

We will have some great cruisers when completed, I hope!

 

[mrboatman]

All is well Ocho77. I am over the loss. The only thing that bugs me now, is that I am into this thing 40K and I am seeing some really sharp FJ40's for that kind of money, even some survivors, you know?

I totally understand what you are saying I've had mine for over 30 years and just figure that I've put about a $1,000 a year into it and it don't hurt as much You are doing a great job on it

 

[dmaddox]

Transfer Case Rebuild:

First, I made a choice on painting the case, using a 2-part can. Very cool design. If you have not used these, you punctures a hardener inside the can by removing a cap and pressing the bottom. This releases the hardener. The downside is, you have to use it within 24 hours.

I've used this before and it hardens nicely, like a 2-part paint would.

Releasing the hardener:

Now that everything is painted and clean - Time to start the re-assembly. The FSM is good but not great, and I will point those steps out.

First, a SST is used to drive in the rear output shaft bearing. Nothing is said here, but there is not a "bottom out" or lip this seats in. Essentially you can drive it all the way through the case, so, just seat it in, with about a 1/4" lip for now:

The next step is on the front drive main shaft (the shaft that is inside the cone, powers your front axle). Install the bearing, rubber mallet it on, using a couple 8x8 blocks, etc. It will indeed seat against that lip:

 

[dmaddox]

Then, after the bearing is seated property, drop the shaft into the (what I call) the front drive cone:

Oddly, @cruiseroutfit front axle brake hub socked with a little tape to for protection worked perfectly to set the bearing into place:

Once seated (yes, you'll feel a change in the sound/feel of driving it in), re-install the retaining clip:

Another @cruiseroutfit upgrade: Part number shown. These are the Marlin seals (consequently the same seal for both differentials as well):

 

[dmaddox]

Seal installed, admittedly a bit of a bugger. Might suggest a little dielectric grease or some other magic. I tried a tube of f-bombs, not ideal - but it went in.

No, I didn't use that mini-sledge, but I wanted to.

Now, we can set the cone aside and focus on the 2/4 selector shaft for a bit. I tried to clean and polish it as best as I could.

While it may be obvious, there is a lip/groove for this dust boot to slide into:

There is a sneaky O-ring in the housing the FSM will not point out. Carefully pry out the old, install the new:

...and yes, the shaft slides into the housing, with the rubber secure around the base of the shaft. He he he. Birds, bees, t-cases....

Affix, the rubber boot, and then re-install the bolt through the shaft into the shift fork:

 

[dmaddox]

As luck would have it - the two access ports on this housing are the two 2F oil drain plugs, early and late. Sweet.

Oil drain plug and gasket in the shift fork access port:

FYI, on this little housing, I just steel wooled the heck out of it and clear coated it with a satin clear.

2/4 selector spring and bearing in next, bearing first obviously. Note that on my spring, one side was clearly flattened as to not marr up the bearing, I suggest you take a look at yours as well.

Once down the hatch, use the late model drain plug. (Or re-use your old gear, whichever).

Done! Set this aside for later.

Now, you are all going to hate me, but in the excitement of the build, I dropped the ball and failed to take pictures on the idler shaft and gears.

All I'll note is that the bushings/washers on the ends are a pain in the keyster. The t-case kit from @cruiseroutfit comes with a new idler shaft, bearings, etc.. What I did was se the new idler shaft (which has a rubber grommet on the rear of it) to hold one bushing and my index finger through the access hole on the front to hold the other while I carefully slid the gear set (with new bearings and spacer in between them) into place, while applying pressure on the idler shaft, and it all went in nicely.

I then used an oil can (the old Wizard of Oz style, even makes the same sound) to squirt a little 80/90 into the hole in the idler gears to help lubricate the bearings. Again, sorry I just zipped through this section and forgot photos. Idler shaft retainer, epoxy black:

 

[dmaddox]

Now, get ready for some pain in the back side.

Output shaft - the shaft where the magic happens. First, after you put the high speed gear onto the shaft (mind the direction) more rubber mallet / wooden block work here. Note that the spacer/washer will not seat directly against it. I assembled the whole thing to find out that this is normal.

So, after inspecting the inner diameter of the high/low gears (A) and the outer diameter (seats) of the output shaft (B) and did the math (A-B) less than a mil, I assembled the shaft/gears.

Note the normal gap between the washer and gear:

At this point my neighbor came out and was like "dude what are you doing now?" I replied "This device, when held up in the sunlight, will alert me when dumbasses are near....and, well....here you are."

Ok, I was thinking that, but what came out was "just working on the cruiser, documenting things."

Another missed photo is the low speed gear, washer and bearing held in place (I just rested them on my finger through the rear opening) and then you insert the whole shaft, along with the shift clutch:

Here is where it gets difficult, because there is no exact spacing of the rear bearing. Anyone else fuss with this?