Build 1978 FJ40 - Lovely “Linda”

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

As a kid my mom was an antique collector and she had bronzes, and silver stuff that just looked like it really needed polishing…. “Hey Ma, I can help you clean and polish this thing…it will really come out shiny and look new”

She explained how old and crusty was its “patina” and earned from age. The I started collecting some Victrolas, Edison stuff and old motorcycles… she said “that one would look pretty if you paint it yellow”. Ma! That’s patina. 🤣
R.I.P. Mom, love ya!

EDIT; I found this photo again so yes Mom, here you go
IMG_0386.webp
 
Last edited:
Most of the Cruisers I had in my youth were dripping with patina because I couldn't afford a Cruiser in better condition.

Now I can afford not to have patina...... subsequently I've never been a fan of the 'left to fend for itself in the yard' look. But it is fun to look at.
 
lazarus18 said:
Is @Coolerman still doing harnesses? Thought I saw something about taking time off. Been debating whether to have a buddy (knows about wiring) go through mine as it looks scary… or buying a new aftermarket harness.
Click to expand...

I don’t believe he’s doing full harnesses, but still has wiring, connectors, and makes sub-harnesses. He’s an excellent resource.

I’d strongly suggest that you spend some time with the wiring diagrams and repair your original harness. An aftermarket harness like painless or autowire doesn’t make the hard part easier - it makes the easy part easier - and at a premium.

The earlier harnesses are much less complicated. I repaired my ‘67s on my workbench in overnight.

IMG_3222.webp
 
nabbasi said:
I don’t believe he’s doing full harnesses, but still has wiring, connectors, and makes sub-harnesses. He’s an excellent resource.

I’d strongly suggest that you spend some time with the wiring diagrams and repair your original harness. An aftermarket harness like painless or autowire doesn’t make the hard part easier - it makes the easy part easier - and at a premium.

The earlier harnesses are much less complicated. I repaired my ‘67s on my workbench in overnight.

View attachment 4093725
Click to expand...
That’s good information. My 70 shouldn’t be too difficult then hopefully.
 
On Friday night, I set out to do 2 things: 1) replace the battery tray, and 2) get the rest of the harness installed.

All 4 battery tray bolts snapped. So that’s a future problem. I had room 2 use 2 new bolts. Good enough for now.

I did get the rest of the harness installed. I only had one issue, which was a missing connector housing for the original coolant temp sensor. I assumed I lost it. I went to test and…no fuel pump. And no sniper.

I spent some time trying to figure out what I missed and it was simple. I forgot to hook up the ignition trigger! It was already in the housing, and also happened to be the same connector for the coolant temp. I spent some time redoing the ignition trigger wiring on Saturday, and…she runs again!

The auxiliary relay/ fuse box is handling the headlight relays and fuses, fuel pump relay and fuse, sniper fuse, and ignition relay (I left the original resistor wire in the harness), so I’m using a relay (was previously using coolerman’s HEI relay kit) for full 12V. I have room for 1 more relay and a few more fuses.

It’s not super clean, but will work for now as I sort through things.

Unfortunately, despite installing a reman Voltage Regulator from Toyota, I’m only getting a max of 13V. Might be time for an alternator rebuild after all.


Next up:
Alternator?
Parking brake adjustment
Wire harness repair
Sniper Tuning
Drive Linda to work
Terrain Tamer Lift?

IMG_0535.webp


IMG_0534.webp
 
Last edited:
When I got Norman started for the first time a whole world opened up.
Now, a .04 mile beer run is a gift as is a 400 mile road trip. I truly cherish every mile. I hope you do too. Something special about these rigs.
 
RevISK said:
When I got Norman started for the first time a whole world opened up.
Now, a .04 mile beer run is a gift as is a 400 mile road trip. I truly cherish every mile. I hope you do too. Something special about these rigs.
Click to expand...

I 100% agree with that sentiment.

I just did 13 miles in Linda. I did 186 in my ‘67 on Sunday.

I’ve said this before, but my ‘67 is very much a thing of the ‘60s. Linda is not. A lot changed in those 11 years.

Tonight, I put the fuel tank cover back on, installed the passenger seat, and drove to dinner, back to the shop, then home.

It’s so pleasant, calm, quiet. But the turn signal/ wiper circuit keeps blowing a fuse!

P.S. and once again, a huge thanks to @knuckle47 - I appreciate your help!

And to @wngrog whose knowledge I’ve been soaking up as he posts about sniper installs and more.

IMG_0604.webp


IMG_0602.webp
 
Last edited:
A milestone has been reached: Linda handled the roundtrip commute to work today. I’m not nearly as comfortable in it as the ‘67 (or as smooth at driving it), the turn signal / wiper fuse keeps blowing, the rear brakes are dragging, and I’m sure there are other issues, but those are where I’m going to start.

Next up:

Alternator - in transit
Turn signal + wiper short/blown fuses
Rear Drum Adjustment
Parking brake adjustment
Dome light install
Sniper Tuning - ongoing
Drive Linda to work
Terrain Tamer?
 
@nabbasi nice list of do-able projects however that bottom item is $$$…but wow! What a difference..so worth it
 
RevISK said:
Wait, do you work from home?
Click to expand...

Ha no, well, sometimes but it handled the actual commute along Neyland Dr to the office.

I adjusted the rear drum brakes, but they’re still too soft/ spongy, so I need to dial that in. I also adjusted the parking brake, and that works just fine. In hindsight, I should have spent a few hundred dollars more and gone 4 wheel disc.

I also attempted to trace the short. I couldn’t find anything, but have ruled out the wipers, hazard switch, and turn signal switch. I don’t remember it blowing fuses before the rewire, but did find a few blown fuses floating around cab, so maybe?
 
@nabbasi Do I recall correctly you have front disc? are you using a proportioning valve on the rear brakes?
 
knuckle47 said:
@nabbasi Do I recall correctly you have front disc? are you using a proportioning valve on the rear brakes?
Click to expand...

Correct. Front disc/ rear drums, original proportioning valve. It’s the stock 1978 OEM setup, just refreshed. I’ve attempted adjusting the push rod (I measured before installation but not sure why it felt so bad), but can’t find a happy medium. I can either have slot it travel and then have good pedal feel, or no travel, no feel and it stops.
 
Are you up for changing the proportioning valve? I am using the Wilwood version. It seems to have much more of a linear swing rather than what you described as logarithmic
 
knuckle47 said:
Are you up for changing the proportioning valve? I am using the Wilwood version. It seems to have much more of a linear swing rather than what you described as logarithmic
Click to expand...

I run the adjustable wilwood on my ‘67 and love it. But that whole system is completely new (4 wheel disc + all new hard lines + all new stainless steel hoses + new tee’s etc).

On Linda, the only thing I didn’t replace was the proportioning valve and the hard line from it to the other side of the firewall into the splitter. I had a replacement, but the tube was seized. That’s probably what I need to do next.
 
nabbasi said:
Ha no, well, sometimes but it handled the actual commute along Neyland Dr to the office.

I adjusted the rear drum brakes, but they’re still too soft/ spongy, so I need to dial that in. I also adjusted the parking brake, and that works just fine. In hindsight, I should have spent a few hundred dollars more and gone 4 wheel disc.

I also attempted to trace the short. I couldn’t find anything, but have ruled out the wipers, hazard switch, and turn signal switch. I don’t remember it blowing fuses before the rewire, but did find a few blown fuses floating around cab, so maybe?
Click to expand...
Quick update: a friend had been driving Linda occasionally for errands and it’s been running well. A few quirks to work out, but nothing too difficult. The (presumably) stock suspension is tired.

I replaced the turn / wiper fuse, and the fuse didn’t blow. So now I’m thinking the issue is the switch, even though it didn’t out of the ordinary when I took it apart. Or possibly the power back to the turn signal switch from the hazard switch.

If anybody has any ideas about the hazard switch, I’m all ears!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom