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- #41
Pictures:
1976 FJ40 BUILDUP - Chief $*itty Pants
- Thread starter 4x4 Station Wagon
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- Thread starter
- #42
Ok here are some progress pictures
Blasted - Cost 150.00
Blasted - Cost 150.00
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- Thread starter
- #43
They are not kidding when they said dont get it on you or it wont come off!!!! Just an FYI it barely sprayed out of my gun!!! I recommend thinning it. The Chassis coat is thicker than the por-15 ecapsolater. IT NEEDED THINNED FOR ME!!! I had a hard time keeping it thick enough to hide the dry look.....
Oh and I really really wish i would have used a respirator!! Yes i am an idiot but i am trying to prevent you from being one to......
And one more
Oh and I really really wish i would have used a respirator!! Yes i am an idiot but i am trying to prevent you from being one to......
And one more
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- #44
I cut and ground all the crap off the front end to clean it up for the spring over. ONCE AGAIN like a idiot i left a little of the old weld to see so i could have a reference for the new pads and after slight flash rust HMMMM...... Its ok i drove around town untill i found someone with a landcruiser, knocked on their door with a tape measure and looked like an idiot... LOL
Front is tacked rear is out and tacked but not back under yet. I have u-bolts and pads ordered from ruffstuff - they were good on the phone.
Ohh i pulled my new perches out of the box, tacked them on, slid them under and went
they are 2.5" not 2.75. They will work for now i will order new ones and later when i pull the axles back out to set the pinion angles etc. I will burn the new perches down.........
Check this out you think it ever got hot ??????
Front is tacked rear is out and tacked but not back under yet. I have u-bolts and pads ordered from ruffstuff - they were good on the phone.
Ohh i pulled my new perches out of the box, tacked them on, slid them under and went
they are 2.5" not 2.75. They will work for now i will order new ones and later when i pull the axles back out to set the pinion angles etc. I will burn the new perches down.........Check this out you think it ever got hot ??????
hot
yikes, must of been glowing hot!
frames looking great
yikes, must of been glowing hot!
frames looking great
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- #46
I know can you imagine how hot it actually was......
It has been crazy hot here and even though i covered the frame with chasis paint it is starting to dull quickly so i am busting a tarp out today!!!!
Thanks and yours is coming along nicely also! Everyone is right you are going to have to explain to everyone now why its name is Ugly Betty!!!
It has been crazy hot here and even though i covered the frame with chasis paint it is starting to dull quickly so i am busting a tarp out today!!!!
Thanks and yours is coming along nicely also! Everyone is right you are going to have to explain to everyone now why its name is Ugly Betty!!!
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- #47
OK BSMITH123 you just cost me a lot of money I now have one gallon of black and one gallon of dark grey with extra UV both textured coming from durabak. 
Yours looks to damn good to not follow your lead!!!! I was going with lizard skin but then i found out you have to purchase the sound deadener seperate which is another 140 or so..... plus the first 140 and 50 for the applicator.
My exterior will be a dark grey so hopefully the two will go together fine??? Question for ya - What do you think about just doing a coat of the POR15 and while it is microscopically tacky rolling the durabak on??? Did you read something that said it would not bond? Is the topcat a must 
I also have more por15 and chassis coat along with rear discs ordered.
Yours looks to damn good to not follow your lead!!!! I was going with lizard skin but then i found out you have to purchase the sound deadener seperate which is another 140 or so..... plus the first 140 and 50 for the applicator. My exterior will be a dark grey so hopefully the two will go together fine??? Question for ya - What do you think about just doing a coat of the POR15 and while it is microscopically tacky rolling the durabak on??? Did you read something that said it would not bond? Is the topcat a must I also have more por15 and chassis coat along with rear discs ordered.
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- #48
I got the rear end stripped of backing plates etc. Along with lots and lots of cleaning on the drivetrain.
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- #49
Check out my drain plug on my PTO - Former PO even before my grandfather.
Does any one need any of this stuff? It is all blasted ready for paint, everything works as far as i know and it looks. The price is free plus shipping so it would be hard to complain if it didnt!
Does any one need any of this stuff? It is all blasted ready for paint, everything works as far as i know and it looks. The price is free plus shipping so it would be hard to complain if it didnt!
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- #50
FYI - Machined Rotors showed up from Poser QUICKLY and look great
U-bolts and pads showed up from Ruff Stuff and dang that is a chunk of metal.
Scout box on its way - Thanks ORANGEFJ45
I am still waiting for the POR and chasis coat along with thinner and Durabak both gray and black for the tub.
I do have some rust and am thinking about having the tub sand blasted. I will get some pictures on here tomorrow for you to look at along with an idea of a price for you guys to toss around if it is worth it. My thought is blast it and POR15 the entire tub, seal the joints, then roll on the black Durabak underneath and Dark Grey inside along with the front of the firewall and their wouldnt be much left to paint.......... Any thoughts? has anyone done minor body work over the por? I am thinking if i epoxy primed over it while it was dry but tacky it might be good to go.... Then i could slowly scuff and work, scuff and work.
U-bolts and pads showed up from Ruff Stuff and dang that is a chunk of metal.
Scout box on its way - Thanks ORANGEFJ45
I am still waiting for the POR and chasis coat along with thinner and Durabak both gray and black for the tub.
I do have some rust and am thinking about having the tub sand blasted. I will get some pictures on here tomorrow for you to look at along with an idea of a price for you guys to toss around if it is worth it. My thought is blast it and POR15 the entire tub, seal the joints, then roll on the black Durabak underneath and Dark Grey inside along with the front of the firewall and their wouldnt be much left to paint.......... Any thoughts? has anyone done minor body work over the por? I am thinking if i epoxy primed over it while it was dry but tacky it might be good to go.... Then i could slowly scuff and work, scuff and work.
[QUOTE= Its ok i drove around town untill i found someone with a landcruiser, knocked on their door with a tape measure.....
and this is why I love the landcruiser crowd. "Sure...whatever you need....you need any parts?"
build looks great.
and this is why I love the landcruiser crowd. "Sure...whatever you need....you need any parts?"
build looks great.
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- #52
That was exactly how it was!!! Thanks
por
I did the POR all over but not on the outside of the tub I figure a good two part epoxy primer plus polyurethane paint will keep it all good and there's no areas for water to just collect and sit plus with no clear coat minor fixes will be easy.
I did use por inside my windshield vent and down into the drains for it and will por or rust bullet the area where the rubber windshield gasket sits
The top coat primer for the por can also be used like a regular primer to paint over though. You could POR it, Top Coat it and then Paint the final coats. The Top Coat primer seems pretty high build too. But if you already have your primer it would not hurt anything to shoot it over the Top Coat. I think they probably invented top coat because of adhesion problems with other primers. Personally I think if you painted over tacky POR or scuffed it good it probably be alright but the tub final paint is not something you want to do over so I'd probably stick to the OEM instructions for that
I think the durabak will stick to anything though!
Looking forward to seeing progress on "the Chief"
I did the POR all over but not on the outside of the tub I figure a good two part epoxy primer plus polyurethane paint will keep it all good and there's no areas for water to just collect and sit plus with no clear coat minor fixes will be easy.
I did use por inside my windshield vent and down into the drains for it and will por or rust bullet the area where the rubber windshield gasket sits
The top coat primer for the por can also be used like a regular primer to paint over though. You could POR it, Top Coat it and then Paint the final coats. The Top Coat primer seems pretty high build too. But if you already have your primer it would not hurt anything to shoot it over the Top Coat. I think they probably invented top coat because of adhesion problems with other primers. Personally I think if you painted over tacky POR or scuffed it good it probably be alright but the tub final paint is not something you want to do over so I'd probably stick to the OEM instructions for that
I think the durabak will stick to anything though!
Looking forward to seeing progress on "the Chief"
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- #54
I agree. I dont know if the POR is needed if it was blasted. however i do like how hard it got. What i mean is that it would take one heck of a big rock to chip it back to bare steel allowing future rust... However my main goal is to get it to where i can put the tub back on the frame, bolt the drivetrain in, and throw a tarp over it to get through hunting season. That would mean basically blast it, por at minimum the underside and inside, spray epoxy primer on the rest, caulk the seams, durabak the underside, and bolt away.... I took a bunch of pics but i am a dip stick and forgot the memory stick at work so i am screwed. It is mostly small pitted surface rust (very small pitts). The rear sill is shot but what do you expect right
I will fix the sill no prob! There was a backyard repair done to the tub behind the driver seat involving the rear fender well. Maybe a minor T-bone.... Fairly extensive It is to hard to explain the pictures tomorrow will better show. I wasnt real excited when i found it but what is a guy to do at this point besides I will with the help of a hammer and my trusty miller 175 whip it back into shape Pics to come tomorrow - sorryOhh and the blaster quoted me 100 an hour and that the underside would take a little over an hour due to undercoating and the rest about another hour so 250 ish. He had an older Bronco in there and it looked good (if anything maybe a little to aggressive)
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- #55
These show the two spots i am concerned with and the one showing the fenderwell to tub will have to be cut out and treated anyway or i will be fighting it forever (pushing a bubble)
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- #56
Other than that it is all surface rust.
This picture shows the rust at the top of the fenderwell pushing a bubble
This picture shows the rust at the top of the fenderwell pushing a bubble
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- #57
And a few more in general:
I also wanted to mention I recieved RuffStuffs u-bolts and pads and as i suspected I got every bit of my 180 dollars worth!! These things are sweet and would hold up to a tank. I never doubted RuffStuff i just dont own a tank.......
I also wanted to mention I recieved RuffStuffs u-bolts and pads and as i suspected I got every bit of my 180 dollars worth!! These things are sweet and would hold up to a tank. I never doubted RuffStuff i just dont own a tank.......
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- #58
Well my mind is made up it is getting blasted first thing next week.
Here are some pics of it stripped. I have a quart of por coming to spray the areas that are common problems or have the potential of holding water. I spoke to POR today and they said I would be find to spray an epoxy primer over it either while it is almost dry or sand it later and spray. It looks like laquer primers are what you have to worry about.
Here are some pics of it stripped. I have a quart of por coming to spray the areas that are common problems or have the potential of holding water. I spoke to POR today and they said I would be find to spray an epoxy primer over it either while it is almost dry or sand it later and spray. It looks like laquer primers are what you have to worry about.
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- #59
Any ideas on a patch panel for this?? Does someone offer something or does someone have a pile of crap tub that they could cut and sell me a patch cheap? If not i will just trim it up to where i can get tools in there and pull it back out as close as possible and then re-cut it square for a patch??
Loaded on trailer headed to get blasted!
Loaded on trailer headed to get blasted!
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- #60
Attended a Rock Crawl comp today. It was pretty good! The locals did good however some southern boys (and girls) came up and handed people their $SS's. The blue samurai was a trail tough or something close to that custom build The gold tracker was a wicked home build that his wife was driving.
