1976 2F swap into 1966 Fj40

[kindoflikerambo]

Mudders,

I am seeking knowledge on a few idiosyncrasies of the swap mentioned in the title. Yes there are many considerations but I'll keep my questions bulleted and concise. First a few important considerations:
-I pulled the stock 1966 1F and have all the engine mounts and goodies. Engine ran great (only had 89k original miles) but I'm sick of adding lead additive and the 1bbl carb, while the MPGs are the best of any Cruiser I've driven, the power trade off doesn't quite suit my needs. Anyone looking for a complete running early 1F let me know and we'll make it happen on good terms for both parties.
-I have a complete 1976 2F stock with the exception of a brand new never installed Non-USA later OEM Aisin Carb.
-My 1966 fj40 is stock.

Questions:
1) Will I have height clearence issues dropping in my 1976 2F into my engine bay? If so how do you solve? Swap engine motor mount brackets? Air cleaner heights? What have you observed (not heard)?
2) How will I solve my (early early) style accelerator to mate with my newer carb? (I purchased a complete factory 1976 2F accelerator linkage package and a (mid-later vintage) style orange boot accelerator pedal but would rather seek options for ease that people have observed (not heard). Is there a good cable option that would make my life easier?

If you have read this far thank you for you time! I have conducted a lot of research over the years in anticipation of this swap and there are many rights and wrongs and opinions. I am hoping for first hand observations or knowledge from the sage Landcruiser omnipotent pros who know! You know who you are out there and thank you for all the knowledge you have imbued on us Cruiser folks!

Once I'm finished with this swap I'll have some early Landcruiser drive terrain goodies. Have some other odds and ends I'll be losting to clean out too so let me know. Not trying to make a buck. Trying to keep the quality OEM parts in circulation for eveyone to enjoy!

Thanks again!

 

[kindoflikerambo]

Attached are some old pictures of my setup with a blow up from SOR. On the SOR image I attempted to draw the direction of tension while applying the accelerator pedal before the sandman takes me away this eve. When I get home this weekend I'll send better pics behind firewall now that I pulled the engine a couple weeks back for it's new heart.l transplant. I found one I took with the beaty rib showing a friend after the pull but it's a grainy picture.

Let me know if anyone knows the direction needed for the non-us spec Aisin 2F carb from (probably) the mid 1980's. I would like to keep the inside of the cab as "untouched" as possible. Engine bay firewall side, clean is good but function over form is best for me! I'll try to get a pic of my carb this weekend. Thanks in advance for everyone's input!

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[brian]

I'm putting a 78 2F in my 61.
Throttle cable to the non usa oem carb and carb to air cleaner fitment are the last hurdles.

 

[brooklyn]

Here is a picture of how I did the carb linkage. I did have to shorten it - cut and reweld to make it fit.

 

[kindoflikerambo]

I'm putting a 78 2F in my 61.
Throttle cable to the non usa oem carb and carb to air cleaner fitment are the last hurdles.

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Wow Brian! We're in the same boat!! Glad to see this post will hopefully serve you as well! Your accelerator linkage still looks different than mine but all else looks the same. I have had my transmission tunnel cover off since the first year I purchased mine in 2014. (My third fj40.) Driving it nearly made me deaf and with a giant hole in my floor a terrified passenger once referred to it as similiar to a flinstone-like experince as their feet could've touched the ground. I'll tell ya though in Montana winters, driving to work in the morning when it's -25°F, nothing beats that direct engine heat after a religiously plugged in old school super hot core heater that did the trick for me every AM as it was my daily for a while. The tunnel was missing because a 4spd on the floor trans + originals 3spd t-case combo was one of my first projects on my "stamped" 1966 (probably 1964) rig. Seeing yours really sends home that I need to be careful with altering my accelerator position too much as it already fits tight with that cover that I long forgot about. Never had the heart to drill into that tunnel (because our oldies didn't have any holes like yours) since I didn't know my final setup. Now I already have rebuilt a 4spd trans mated to a brand new never intalled Fairey Overdirve (yes I know the risks of not maintaing them) + OEM Toyota PTO Winch that will all be sticking though my virgin trans tunnel. I plan to keep my original T-case control on the dash because it's cool.

Please notate the issues and potential fixes you have observed first hand in your build! Thanks for dropping in!

 

[kindoflikerambo]

Here is a picture of how I did the carb linkage. I did have to shorten it - cut and reweld to make it fit.View attachment 4132073

Brooklyn, nice configuration! I see how you fabricated a part to get that cable to work. What does that look like inside your cab by your accelerator pedal and then on the firewall? Thanks for posting helpful pics!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Non-US spec air cleaner makes life simple.

 

[kindoflikerambo]

View attachment 4132081

Non-US spec air cleaner makes like simple.

Interesting. I didn't know they looked so differnt from the USA 2F air cleaners. I'm guessing there's no way one of my older style air cleaners from an F-engine would work? Thanks for the pictures!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Interesting. I didn't know they looked so differnt from the USA 2F air cleaners. I'm guessing there's no way one of my older style air cleaners from an F-engine would work? Thanks for the pictures!

You might be able to have a spacer machined to mate the old air cleaner to the non-US carb.

I feel like I've ran across one that is commercially available, maybe Redline Cruisers in Colorado Springs.

 

[ryanwk628]

Mine is an 11/69 (was vac retard) now running what I think is a clone of your new carb with a DUI. The cable brackets Im using all came with a Trollhole Carb and fit onto the City Race Fuji carb.

 

[mtn biker]

Mudders,

I am seeking knowledge on a few idiosyncrasies of the swap mentioned in the title. Yes there are many considerations but I'll keep my questions bulleted and concise. First a few important considerations:
-I pulled the stock 1966 1F and have all the engine mounts and goodies. Engine ran great (only had 89k original miles) but I'm sick of adding lead additive and the 1bbl carb, while the MPGs are the best of any Cruiser I've driven, the power trade off doesn't quite suit my needs. Anyone looking for a complete running early 1F let me know and we'll make it happen on good terms for both parties.
-I have a complete 1976 2F stock with the exception of a brand new never installed Non-USA later OEM Aisin Carb.
-My 1966 fj40 is stock.

Questions:
1) Will I have height clearence issues dropping in my 1976 2F into my engine bay? If so how do you solve? Swap engine motor mount brackets? Air cleaner heights? What have you observed (not heard)?
2) How will I solve my (early early) style accelerator to mate with my newer carb? (I purchased a complete factory 1976 2F accelerator linkage package and a (mid-later vintage) style orange boot accelerator pedal but would rather seek options for ease that people have observed (not heard). Is there a good cable option that would make my life easier?

If you have read this far thank you for you time! I have conducted a lot of research over the years in anticipation of this swap and there are many rights and wrongs and opinions. I am hoping for first hand observations or knowledge from the sage Landcruiser omnipotent pros who know! You know who you are out there and thank you for all the knowledge you have imbued on us Cruiser folks!

Once I'm finished with this swap I'll have some early Landcruiser drive terrain goodies. Have some other odds and ends I'll be losting to clean out too so let me know. Not trying to make a buck. Trying to keep the quality OEM parts in circulation for eveyone to enjoy!

Thanks again!

From the 1F to the 2F the air cleaner ( millennium falcon style) air cleaner goes from the side of the block to the top of the valve cover. If yours is like mine and you have the split hood the prop rod won't fit in the original location. Having said that you can still use the old air cleaner still for the 2F if that is the aesthetic that you want. The mounting holes for the motor mounts on the 2F are a little bit larger but still the same thing basically. The 1F and 2F are pretty much the same size and dimensions but what makes the 2F different is the .3L more displacement and it has better oil circulation than the 1F. I got an adaptor from SOR that joins the early throttle pedal to the later style 2 barrel carb. That worked pretty well with some creative cable routing over to the millennium falcon style cleaner bracket.

On a side note we, speaking for everyone on here want to see a build thread for this project, maybe turn this into the build thread

 

[ryanwk628]

You might be able to have a spacer machined to mate the old air cleaner to the non-US carb.

I feel like I've ran across one that is commercially available, maybe Redline Cruisers in Colorado Springs.

Would probably be cheaper to draw it in CAD and have it printed by one of those services that will 3D print parts out of metal - Craftcloud or Protolabs

 

[kindoflikerambo]

Mine is an 11/69 (was vac retard) now running what I think is a clone of your new carb with a DUI. The cable brackets Im using all came with a Trollhole Carb and fit onto the City Race Fuji carb.

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So awesome! I'm going to chase down this avenue. While I don't have the carb in fornt of me, when I go home this weekend I'll snap some pocs but memory serves that I believe you are correct as mine I think does look like those! What does your firewall bracket and accelerator pedal configuration look like?Thanks for the pics and your contributions!

 

[kindoflikerambo]

Would probably be cheaper to draw it in CAD and have it printed by one of those services that will 3D print parts out of metal - Craftcloud or Protolabs

Never heard of those vendors! Thanks for the tip!

 

[mtn biker]

Would probably be cheaper to draw it in CAD and have it printed by one of those services that will 3D print parts out of metal - Craftcloud or Protolabs

City racer has some

 

[kindoflikerambo]

From the 1F to the 2F the air cleaner ( millennium falcon style) air cleaner goes from the side of the block to the top of the valve cover. If yours is like mine and you have the split hood the prop rod won't fit in the original location. Having said that you can still use the old air cleaner still for the 2F if that is the aesthetic that you want. The mounting holes for the motor mounts on the 2F are a little bit larger but still the same thing basically. The 1F and 2F are pretty much the same size and dimensions but what makes the 2F different is the .3L more displacement and it has better oil circulation than the 1F. I got an adaptor from SOR that joins the early throttle pedal to the later style 2 barrel carb. That worked pretty well with some creative cable routing over to the millennium falcon style cleaner bracket.

On a side note we, speaking for everyone on here want to see a build thread for this project, maybe turn this into the build thread

AWESOME INSIGHT! I do have the split hood and while I still have the "Millennium Falcon" style air cleaner plus the original bracket but I'm not married to the esthetics if there is a less expensive "Toyota or like" option. I will likely start a build thread that will encompass more questions but this is primarily focused on the two questions regarding 1) 2F height considerations in an early engine bay and 2) accelerator solutions to mate to the later non-us spec carb. Thanks so much for helping me out with these questions!

 

[igotta40]

Very helpful! Awsome configuration! I replied to your pic with drawn arrows in the photo of which direction I assume the tension increases when you apply the accelerator. Is this correct? When it ends at that point where does it hook to the carb and which way does the tension continue? Thanks for posting! Showing me anytjing is possible with a lottle creativity.

View attachment 4132024

No, it pulls the other way.

 

[kindoflikerambo]

No, it pulls the other way.

Got it!

 

[igotta40]

Got it!

Close up of the cable end

 

[brian]

Put a '83 2F from a 60 series in my '69, I found:

1) No height issue but you will need newer style engine mounts.

2) A 1976 accelerator set up has the cable to a bell crank to the linkage to the carb that works.

Show us some pictures of what you have.

Here's the bell crank from a '76 that you will probably need, believe it was originally zink coated but I painted mine. You will also need a return spring fitted to it to keep the carb from getting stuck at full acceleration...DAMHIK....

View attachment 4131805

That is not a federal spec part.
76s would have had a linkage arrangement. 75(at least, maybe even from 73) to 79 or newer all had a very similar linkage arrangement.

 

[brian]

Wow Brian! We're in the same boat!! Glad to see this post will hopefully serve you as well! Your accelerator linkage still looks different than mine but all else looks the same. I have had my transmission tunnel cover off since the first year I purchased mine in 2014. (My third fj40.) Driving it nearly made me deaf and with a giant hole in my floor a terrified passenger once referred to it as similiar to a flinstone-like experince as their feet could've touched the ground. I'll tell ya though in Montana winters, driving to work in the morning when it's -25°F, nothing beats that direct engine heat after a religiously plugged in old school super hot core heater that did the trick for me every AM as it was my daily for a while. The tunnel was missing because a 4spd on the floor trans + originals 3spd t-case combo was one of my first projects on my "stamped" 1966 (probably 1964) rig. Seeing yours really sends home that I need to be careful with altering my accelerator position too much as it already fits tight with that cover that I long forgot about. Never had the heart to drill into that tunnel (because our oldies didn't have any holes like yours) since I didn't know my final setup. Now I already have rebuilt a 4spd trans mated to a brand new never intalled Fairey Overdirve (yes I know the risks of not maintaing them) + OEM Toyota PTO Winch that will all be sticking though my virgin trans tunnel. I plan to keep my original T-case control on the dash because it's cool.

Please notate the issues and potential fixes you have observed first hand in your build! Thanks for dropping in!

Pedal is an oem from an early 70s that's cable linkage...I just straightened all the bends while flapping my grills. I was not into drilling holes in the firewall...but since I didn't disrespect the tub elsewhere I sent it.
Now all I need is a bracket to catch the other end of the aftermarket oe throttle cable