1975 2F Piggy with Weber 38 carb and DUI dizzy...need some insight please:)

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Thanks Carm. Yeah, like you said, it's a lot of check/re-check of all systems. Which of course leads to a LOT of second-guessing about what I am and am not seeing. I've gone 2F-crazy! :)
 
Yes on the first one but make sure the connector is the right one for your app.

The second one looks like a voltage regulator as well although it says ignition cable. I'm not sure on a '75 but my ignition cable on my '78 is in the steering column and it looks nothing like that. Besides, you don't need a new ignition cable.
 
mydogpea said:
Sorry rsbcruiser for volunteering your parts, just was figuring your dizzy is known to be "good" and a quick swap to see if jdog's truck ran better as a result. At least we would know if it is the dizzy or not. I'm thinking it and the coil is the culprits.
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Just joking with you.

JohnnyC said:
i dont know which one he has...maybe he can post up the part# from the original reciept...i do knotice that it has a black cap on it and looks to be a DUI: Performance Distributors - High Performance and Racing Ignition Systems

however...the one on the site for a toyota 6 is a blue top :hhmm:

he can bring it to any auto zone or place like that and have it tested as they do for an HEI...that would rule out the coil and ign module if it checks out.

where it was said that theres a voltage drop is interesting....as a dui needs 12 to work right

I might have misunderstood jd here


so far if i were you :) (thank goodness i'm not him i think i would loose my ramaining hair and start drinking and smoking again) I was just thinking this right? or did i type that out loud :hhmm: :hillbilly:

i would check this laundry list of things out :) doesnt matter which you try 1st...just do it :D


1) check the fuel pump? flow to the carb?

Checked it and it's fine

2) take the regulator out of the equation? how does it push after the regulator? go right to the weber from fuel pump

3) try a temperary wire direct from battery to dui + power....(this is only temporary!!!) you must remember to remove the wire after you are done testing...you dont want 12v constantly to the hei/dui....you'll burn out your ign mod!!!

4) you can remove the dui and bring it to most every auto parts store for them to test also

5) you could also try and remove all fuses from fues block except fueses to run and then test

6) try and put your hand over the carb and block the air going in (makes it rich and compensates if the choke is inop)

we did this, no change at all

7) also try pouring a little fuel in and see if it accels? (tool lean)

same here, no change

8) also you might want to try starting with it floored and see if it will fire at all or just turn over




PS kidding about the drinking and smoking thing :) sometimes i like stupid humor :)
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jdog35 said:
Is this one acceptable:

FJ40 FJ55 Toyota Land Cruiser Voltage Regulator - eBay (item 320620601301 end time Dec-21-10 13:28:36 PST)


And this was listed as well but I'm not sure it was on the 'check-list':)

FJ40 FJ55 Toyota Land Cruiser Ignition Cable Switch - eBay (item 320623104526 end time Dec-27-10 09:37:20 PST)

Thoughts?
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Where are you going here, jd? I'd say that new a voltage reg is not going to fix your problem. There is a simple test to figure this out. Just get the motor running and then test voltage across your bat leads.

cruiserheads said:
Might be a long shot, but what about a chassis ground. The ground from engine to chassis.

Neil.
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Good point
 
"The voltage drop was checked at idle at that wire that plugs into the carb"

Not trying to split hairs but voltage drop is a different check and it is a handy one to know, so you were just reading voltage--- a 10 volt drop during a volt drop check would be a huge smoking gun!

check out this link for a good explanation
Voltage Drop Testing

I am thinking you were reading 10 volts while cranking it?

if not I would track that down---you should read 12 volts, 10 volts means high resistance in the circuit or a possibly a short somewhere in the ignition dragging down the voltage

the way around this though without tsing to a fault first is to use the bypass wires instead of relying on your ignition circuit---no reason you couldn't run a jumper to the carb as well
 
thats odd ...do you have an autozone or adavnced auto by you?

they definatly test control modules and coils...

...maybe carquest can't test the whole unit...but...they can test the individual components? i'm very surprised that they dont test Ign Mods and coils?
 
Yeah. The Carquest near here is kinda small. There's a NAPA too. But I forgot about Autozone (think there's one nearby enough). Thanks Johnny!
 
were you able to test the ign module or coil yet?
 
i hear ya about the prego...wives and kids as fun as they are ....they do suck the time away from working on the fun stuff :)

A friend just ran into the same issue as you...same issue dies right after putting alil gas into it...also a DUI...very odd...i'm thinking its a ign module problem myself

I have two kids who are 7 and one that just turned 2...they love the truck and playing with the matchbox 40's :)
 
Yeah our kids love the fact they can 'play in the pig':) I'm sure they'll love it even more when they actually go for a RIDE in the pig:)

That's encouraging to hear another person had a similar issue and it was ignition/dizzy related. That's at least something I can fix by just buying a new part. Lots easier than having to tear everything apart...again!

Thanks Johnny!!!!!!!!
 
thru reading some GM threads and HEI links...it sure seems like its that dui...every thread leads to people replacing back their points dizzy and it working just fine :meh:

but...since you dont have that option....you will need to have what you got tested
 
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