Anyone have a working old alternator for a 75 2f? Mine is working but is loud so guessing it is failing. Bascally looking for one to swap to be sure that s where the noise is coming from. Engine is a relatively fresh rebuild and new after pump so thinking the alt is the noise.
Let me know what you might have and. Soft shipped to 60048.
Been here but no projects lately. Hope you are well!
Was going to disconnect the belt but wondered if it might be the water pump. It got loud a week ago so i cut the AC belt thinking that was the source but no change.
Wouldn’t mind having an extra in the stash if this one’s isn’t the cause. Had engine out and completely redone by Jim C. Carb guru dude. So pretty sure its not the water pump but will see.
Here are some images of the alt to be sure i grab the right one.
Truck is almost silent without alt belt on but the water pump is not spinning. That seems to sound supe quiet and smoothly.
Might just go for another alt and see if it quiets down and then try hard to find an oem nice one.
Truck is almost silent without alt belt on but the water pump is not spinning. That seems to sound supe quiet and smoothly.
Might just go for another alt and see if it quiets down and then try hard to find an oem nice one.
Take it off and run it by a parts store, they can put it on their machine to test it and that will tell you if the bearing is bad since it will make a heck of a racket when they turn the machine on. Any Napa or similar parts store will have the ability to test it.
jumping into removing your Alternator , is a missed / skipped FSM step by steps here
- you have your belt / belts off now , good ...
- take a good leather glove so you do not slice your hand wide open 5+ stitch's like ....
- your GenuineNipponDensoalternator has a GIANT and HEAVY Gyroscope in-fact already built into it so as to contain momentum by default of the several pounds of copper wingdingsspun around the commutator several hundred times ....
- this intern allows you to give it you best possible free-hand spin humanly possible to listen for a Front Frame end Bearing issue , or a Rear End Frame bearing issue , typically they fail at the same general moments if factory originals like your tech photos above suggest ... - then switch-up to the slow and steady human hand flesh-feel approach , try to both listen but more importantly feel a grinding or resistance sensation in your finger tips or through the back side of your bare hand you rest on top center of the alternator as you hand rotate it slowly with the other hand too at same time ., this approach works well for me in the past and will continue to in the future ....
- a remote field bench test , will only confirm and verify the Electrical functions of your alternator , not any metallurgy related issues like you may indeed have as you outline above ......fyi
- see my TECH. video below , this is what i do for a living , so if your 27020-61011 is mechanically faulty or both mechanically and electrically too , i can assist you from a OEM TOYOTA andGenuineNipponDensoJapan Spec. Parts approach as well , but confirm and verify the above first so you actually know the facts in full , this way you can make a informed decision moving forward ...