1973 FJ40 "Herman"

[sarca]

I always feel quite useless unless I break a bolt off..

Here's a thread - I look at it whenever I dont feel like Im making much progress - it makes me laugh everytime.

 

[Phares]

I got all the stuff back from the powder coater yesterday so hopefully once I am done with my chores I can start working on Herman. and get everything back into one piece...Pictures and reports to follow.

 

[Phares]

I have been learning a lot about powder coaters lately.
1) Tape it yourself. If I hadn't gone by the shop they would have powder coated my oil pan drain plug into the oil pan.
2) Remove all removable parts prior to delivery to the powder coater...if you don't do this go ahead and order any removable parts to save yourself time.

So I got everything up top put back together last night and I noticed my valve cover was missing the rubber grommets (valve cover seals according to SOR)
But everything looks really good. I will be tackling the infamous oil pan gasket this morning after the trip to the farmer's market...wish me luck.
I fixed the engine temperature sensor wire. That turned out super easy but I broke the tubing coming from what I believe is the ABV (looks like a modern day EGR valve) right under the distributor and runs to the vacuum box(???). It was brittle and just cracked in half when I tried to move it. Maybe that was my infamous whistling noise culprit???
If someone could post a picture of their valve cover with the correct location for the F155 sticker I would appreciate it. AAtlas' stickers are amazing looking and really add the finished look to the projects.
Thanks everyone.
Here are some photos.

 

[sarca]

Looks good! Im kinda jealous!! Sounds like the powdercoater is a real PITA. Ill check that manual and see if it has any pics of the sticker on it today.

 

[Phares]

Got everything back together and Herman is up and running again. The oil pan gasket was a PITA to reinstall. Thank goodness for the FAQ. No leaks so far though so hopefully that works out. I torqued the bolts to 75-80 in-lbf per the factory spec of 32-108 in-lbf.
The valve cover gasket was leaking a little bit. I couldn't find a torque value in the book and don't think there is one. I don't think that area is pressurized but I could be wrong. Any advice there is welcome.
The off-gas whine is still there. I figure this has to be a generic problem so I have begun searching for it on the forum. I don't think this a 40 specific problem either, I just don't have the experience to properly identify it and I don't want to start the replace a part, hold my beer, check it now, process. Exhaust gasket leak? Carb gasket leak? Any ideas?
All in all though I am very happy to be back in the 40 and driving it around. Best thing on the road. Ever.

 

[sarca]

Im still fairly jealous that you have the aux fuel tank..when you've got some time to fart around, could you take some pics of it? Im wondering if it was an original dealer install . I know you told me it does fine - but Im very interested in installing one and making it the main fuel line negating the gas tank directly under the passenger seat.

Also threw that drive in the mail today; I included every other pdf Ive found as well as a bolt spreadsheet (most of which I amassed from the minds of mud)

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Super clean rig Chris

 

[Phares]

Now that the weather is finally warming up again and the Porsche finally got sold I am able to dive back into working on Herman again. In the last week all I have done is added Zombie Assualt Vehicle stickers to the side windows which added about 10 Ft-lbf of torque and 20 HP. At the wheels! I also gave Herman a good wash down and vacuum. I have been running on the Aux. fuel tank for the last wo weeks with no issues. So that has tested SAT. Total fuel capacity:40 gals. (If the Aux tank is in fact 22 gallons)
We are having a pretty big gathering here at the end of April so the first task is going to be revitalizing the brakes. They have started to squel when braking. Should be able to order parts in the morning. The valve cover is leaking so I'm going to pop that back off and check the gasket and re-install. The oil pan isn't leaking at all so that has been a great success. That will be it except for minor interior fixes until after the April meeting. Then it is on to part Deux of the upgrades.

I've decided to wait for new tires until I can install the 2.5" HFS lift kit at the same time. I want to go with 33x10.5s and believe they will rub without the lift. New TREs in an attempt to tighten up the steering. Rebuild the knuckles while I am in there. Pretty ambitious but I think it is possible by the end of Summer. Which of these jobs will require alignment? If I am thinking correctly each of those jobs will need an alignment upon completion so I am thinking of combining the TRE/Knuckle rebuild.

Here we go again...

 

[Phares]

I ordered the following for the brake job. Please let me know if you think I am missing something. This will be the first foray into Drum Brakes...

Shoes and Drums - Toyota Dealership
(8) Cylinders and Spring Kit - CCoT
Brake spring washer tool, Drum brake spring tool, Brake adjusting spoon - Sears
Master Cylinder - Cruiser Corps
FSM - SOR
Fluid - Local Shop

Hopefully no lines will be broken, no threads will be stripped, and they will actually work when complete. I have searched for a step by step thread on this job but have been unlucky so far. It seems like everyone just upgrades to Discs but I like keeping it old school and original. Plus the excuse to adjust my brakes gets me into the garage.

On another note I think I have decided to go with 31x10.5x15R tires and not lift the truck but replace with new original height springs...But who knows.

Again, if you have any links that might help, or think I need additional tools please feel free to let me know.

 

[jmdaniel]

I ordered the following for the brake job. Please let me know if you think I am missing something. This will be the first foray into Drum Brakes...

Shoes and Drums - Toyota Dealership
(8) Cylinders and Spring Kit - CCoT
Brake spring washer tool, Drum brake spring tool, Brake adjusting spoon - Sears
Master Cylinder - Cruiser Corps
FSM - SOR
Fluid - Local Shop

Hopefully no lines will be broken, no threads will be stripped, and they will actually work when complete. I have searched for a step by step thread on this job but have been unlucky so far. It seems like everyone just upgrades to Discs but I like keeping it old school and original. Plus the excuse to adjust my brakes gets me into the garage.

On another note I think I have decided to go with 31x10.5x15R tires and not lift the truck but replace with new original height springs...But who knows.

Again, if you have any links that might help, or think I need additional tools please feel free to let me know.

You may regret getting those cylinders from CCOT; others have. That brake adjusting spoon from Sears is worthless, I hope you kept the receipt. A simple standard screwdriver will be all you need. I like to use Speedbleeders, makes bleeding a one man job. Buy a short section of brake line at Autozone or the like, and cut it to make two pieces that you can use to bench bleed the master on the truck. I have a picture here on MUD of what that looks like. Remember that the cylinders are specific to their location, don't mix them up. Or ask me how I learned that. Good luck!

 

[Chamba]

You may regret getting those cylinders from CCOT; others have. That brake adjusting spoon from Sears is worthless, I hope you kept the receipt. A simple standard screwdriver will be all you need. I like to use Speedbleeders, makes bleeding a one man job. Buy a short section of brake line at Autozone or the like, and cut it to make two pieces that you can use to bench bleed the master on the truck. I have a picture here on MUD of what that looks like. Remember that the cylinders are specific to their location, don't mix them up. Or ask me how I learned that. Good luck!

True. I've regretted everything I've purchased from ccot, sadly. They are like JC Whitney for Cruisers, except if you try to return it they hang up on you.

 

[Phares]

Should I spend the extra money and get the OEM Cylinders? Solid copy on the specific locations of the cylinders. Why do people regret buying the cylinders from CCoT? Difficult to bleed?

 

[jmdaniel]

Should I spend the extra money and get the OEM Cylinders? Solid copy on the specific locations of the cylinders. Why do people regret buying the cylinders from CCoT? Difficult to bleed?

What I have read on here indicates low quality. I don't have any experience on that, one way or the other, as I went with new OEM.

 

[Phares]

Tires

While waiting on my brake parts to arrive I have been reading/researching tires. I decided I wanted to stick with original vehicle height for now because I like how the stock 40s look. I like the lifted ones too but it seems like there are fewer and fewer that are staying stock (for lots of good reasons). So the first thing I did was look at what tires are on the 40 now.

Big Foot P235/75R15
235 (Tire width in Millimeters)
75 Aspect ratio (Height of the sidewall in relation to the tire width)
15 Rim Size

So if you do some math:

[(235 millimeters multiplied by .75) x2 (Two times to account for the bottom and the top of the tire sidewalls)] /25.4 millimeters/inch+ 15 inches(Rim diameter)
(176.25 millimetersx2)/25.4 millimeters/inch +15 inches
13.88 inches +15 inches
Approx. 29 inches tall

235 millimeters /25.4 millimeters/inch = 9.25 inches wide

So my current tire and wheel setup is 29 inches in diameter and 9.25 inches wide.

All of this seemed important to me because all the tires I am looking at are measured in inches and read as 31x10.5R15 Etc... So I needed to know where I started before I head to where I am going.
So I am currently entertaining either a 32x9.5, 31x9.5 Super Swamper TSLs or the 31x10.5 trXus MT Super Swampers. These shouldn't require a lift to fit without rubbing. I like how the tread pattern looks on the TSLs but I think I would get more life out of the MTs. So if anyone has any experience with SS in general (all my tires have been Mickey Thompsons) or these tires in particular please chime in. If you see an issue with my math, please chime in. Herman does not have power steering nor will he get it so I want to stay skinny...Thoughts? and Thanks.

 

[sarca]

I love the look of SS TSLs. I read somewhere that theyre good for around $30K miles..I figured since I'll only put an average of 1000 miles a year.. then they'd outlast me. I've heard they wear easily if you don't keep them properly aired or in.proper alignment .

Just my 2 pennies.

 

[Phares]

Late last night I began working on the front grill. One of the POs did a respray and didn't bother taping anything up so everything on the outside is white. I don't think it is even cygnus white based on what I reveal in areas that weren't sprayed. It doesn't matter in the end because I am leaning towards Breath Green when I repaint it down the road. So it the short term I am trying to make it look less mail truckish and respraying the screen black. Everything was going well until I broke the wire for the PS horn and then when I was trying to restore the Toyota emblem that broke too! It was my fault. It got caught in the bench wire wheel and snapped. That is an expensive fix but at least the new one will let everyone know it is a Toyota! I will button everything up when the new emblem arrives.

 

[Phares]

Out with the old and in with the new! New pieces for the transfer shifter thingamajig. Not sure how they had access to a second shift knob but not a 4 wheel drive knob. Fixed now.

 

[Titan]

dump the wire wheel, head over to tractor supply and buy the $99 blast cabinet. and 2 pails of glass bead medium..best money I ever spent, of course I already had the big ass air compressor, but getting gunk off small pieces is now fun. I plan to buy the gravity fed blast tank, and totally trash my warehouse. Remember..glass bead, the other mediums clog and don't blast as well..looking good Amigo

 

[Kayaker]

I have been learning a lot about powder coaters lately.
1) Tape it yourself. If I hadn't gone by the shop they would have powder coated my oil pan drain plug into the oil pan.
2) Remove all removable parts prior to delivery to the powder coater...if you don't do this go ahead and order any removable parts to save yourself time.

So I got everything up top put back together last night and I noticed my valve cover was missing the rubber grommets (valve cover seals according to SOR)
But everything looks really good. I will be tackling the infamous oil pan gasket this morning after the trip to the farmer's market...wish me luck.
I fixed the engine temperature sensor wire. That turned out super easy but I broke the tubing coming from what I believe is the ABV (looks like a modern day EGR valve) right under the distributor and runs to the vacuum box(???). It was brittle and just cracked in half when I tried to move it. Maybe that was my infamous whistling noise culprit???
If someone could post a picture of their valve cover with the correct location for the F155 sticker I would appreciate it. AAtlas' stickers are amazing looking and really add the finished look to the projects.
Thanks everyone.
Here are some photos.

Here's a photo of my valve cover decal, it's the original placement for a 3/72 1F.

 

[Phares]

View attachment 740427

Here's a photo of my valve cover decal, it's the original placement for a 3/72 1F.

Thanks! I will have to move mine next time it is out if possible. It looks like I placed mine a couple inches back. Your engine bay looks amazing. Do you have a thread running because I would like to see more pictures. What does your control panel look like? (With the fan/windshield wiper levers) Where are you jack levers stowed? I am pretty sure they go under the passenger side jumpseat. Confirm? I will definitely be asking you lots of questions. Thanks.