- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks for adding the link to your build. It will be a great reference for me.
Build 1972 FJ40 Restoration Project
- Thread starter kvanoort
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Thanks for adding the link to your build. It will be a great reference for me.
- Thread starter
- #22
My old '75 FJ40
Just thought I would add a few photos of my first FJ40 -- photos are circa 1979.
Just thought I would add a few photos of my first FJ40 -- photos are circa 1979.
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- Thread starter
- #23
2F Refresh
At this point in the project, I'm ready to check the crankshaft and connecting rod journals for their respective run clearances on the supposedly running 2F transplant motor. I've done numerous searches and feel I'm ready to check the thrust clearances and remove the bearing caps to determine if the engine will need a complete rebuild, a refresh or just a cleanup. From searching, here's the information I have compiled:
1) Using a feeler gauge, measure the thrust (side) clearance of both the connecting rods and the crankshaft.
Connecting Rods
Check the crankshaft thrust clearance at the third bearing.
Crankshaft thrust clearance (standard) 0.0024/0.0065 in (0.06/0.16mm)
Crankshaft thrust clearance (maximum) 0.012 in (0.3 mm)
Source: Haynes ARM
2) Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps to ensure they are reinstalled correctly. Rotate crank to access connecting rod bearing cap nuts. Remove nuts and take off bearing cap one at a time. Inspect and measure journals and run clearances.
Connecting Rods
Rod journal dia. 2.1252/2.1260 in
Using Plastigauge, measure condition of bearings.
Install the connecting rod cap and tighten the rod nuts to 35~55 ft-lb (4.8 - 7.6 m-kg) torque.
Rod run clearance 0.0008/0.0017 in
Source: Motor Power, Inc. - www.motorpowerinc.com/specs/2f.html
Rod bearing oil clearance (standard) 0.0008/0.0024 in (0.02/0.06 mm)
Rod bearing oil clearance (maximum) 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
Source: Haynes ARM
3) Crankshaft
Crankshaft journal diameter - standard:
Front: 2.6366 ~ 2.6378 in (66.97 ~ 67.00 mm)
Second: 2.6957 ~ 2.6969 in (68.47 ~ 68.50 mm)
Third: 2.7547 ~ 2.7559 in (69.97 ~ 70.00 mm)
Rear: 2.8138 ~ 2.8150 in (71.47 ~ 71.50 mm)
Source: Toyota F Engine Repair Manual
Using Plastigauge, install the bearing cap bolts:
Torque - Front, second & third: 90 ~ 108 ft-lb (12.5~15 m-kg)
Torque - Rear: 76 ~ 94 ft-lb (10.5 ~ 13 m-kg)
Oil clearance should be 0.0014/0.0018 in (0.035/0.045 mm)
Limit is 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
Source: Toyota F Engine Repair Manual - Will also check Haynes tomorrow
To be continued...
At this point in the project, I'm ready to check the crankshaft and connecting rod journals for their respective run clearances on the supposedly running 2F transplant motor. I've done numerous searches and feel I'm ready to check the thrust clearances and remove the bearing caps to determine if the engine will need a complete rebuild, a refresh or just a cleanup. From searching, here's the information I have compiled:
1) Using a feeler gauge, measure the thrust (side) clearance of both the connecting rods and the crankshaft.
Connecting Rods
Connecting rod thrust clearance (standard) 0.004/0.009 in (0.11/0.23 mm)
Connecting rod thrust clearance (maximum) 0.012 in (0.3 mm)
CrankshaftConnecting rod thrust clearance (maximum) 0.012 in (0.3 mm)
Check the crankshaft thrust clearance at the third bearing.
Crankshaft thrust clearance (standard) 0.0024/0.0065 in (0.06/0.16mm)
Crankshaft thrust clearance (maximum) 0.012 in (0.3 mm)
Source: Haynes ARM
2) Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps to ensure they are reinstalled correctly. Rotate crank to access connecting rod bearing cap nuts. Remove nuts and take off bearing cap one at a time. Inspect and measure journals and run clearances.
Connecting Rods
Rod journal dia. 2.1252/2.1260 in
Using Plastigauge, measure condition of bearings.
Install the connecting rod cap and tighten the rod nuts to 35~55 ft-lb (4.8 - 7.6 m-kg) torque.
Rod run clearance 0.0008/0.0017 in
Source: Motor Power, Inc. - www.motorpowerinc.com/specs/2f.html
Rod bearing oil clearance (standard) 0.0008/0.0024 in (0.02/0.06 mm)
Rod bearing oil clearance (maximum) 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
Source: Haynes ARM
3) Crankshaft
Crankshaft journal diameter - standard:
Front: 2.6366 ~ 2.6378 in (66.97 ~ 67.00 mm)
Second: 2.6957 ~ 2.6969 in (68.47 ~ 68.50 mm)
Third: 2.7547 ~ 2.7559 in (69.97 ~ 70.00 mm)
Rear: 2.8138 ~ 2.8150 in (71.47 ~ 71.50 mm)
Source: Toyota F Engine Repair Manual
Using Plastigauge, install the bearing cap bolts:
Torque - Front, second & third: 90 ~ 108 ft-lb (12.5~15 m-kg)
Torque - Rear: 76 ~ 94 ft-lb (10.5 ~ 13 m-kg)
Oil clearance should be 0.0014/0.0018 in (0.035/0.045 mm)
Limit is 0.004 in (0.10 mm)
Source: Toyota F Engine Repair Manual - Will also check Haynes tomorrow
To be continued...
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- Thread starter
- #24
2F Refresh to 2F Rebuild
Well, I have now completely disassembled my '75 2F motor. This project started out by purchasing a supposedly running 2F that I was just going to clean up a bit and drop into my '72 FJ40 project. But, after reading more and more info. on MUD and advice from the Rising Sun 4x4 Club in Denver, I now have internal engine parts neatly organized all over my workbench.
I haven't spent any time measuring parts to determine wear on all the various bits and pieces but from a quick visual inspection it looks like the crank is in good shape and the cylinder bores are okay but the cam is worn. At this point, I'm going to have the cylinder head cleaned up and checked out along with the crank and block. I'm also going to have a machine shop install new cam bearings and freeze plugs.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a machine shop in the Denver area to do the work? I'm looking for someone who knows 2Fs and is honest. I really just want to clean, check and measure everything and not do machine work because that's what they do. I've used Heads by Paul before but I'm open to other suggestions.
I'll post pictures soon.
Well, I have now completely disassembled my '75 2F motor. This project started out by purchasing a supposedly running 2F that I was just going to clean up a bit and drop into my '72 FJ40 project. But, after reading more and more info. on MUD and advice from the Rising Sun 4x4 Club in Denver, I now have internal engine parts neatly organized all over my workbench.
I haven't spent any time measuring parts to determine wear on all the various bits and pieces but from a quick visual inspection it looks like the crank is in good shape and the cylinder bores are okay but the cam is worn. At this point, I'm going to have the cylinder head cleaned up and checked out along with the crank and block. I'm also going to have a machine shop install new cam bearings and freeze plugs.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a machine shop in the Denver area to do the work? I'm looking for someone who knows 2Fs and is honest. I really just want to clean, check and measure everything and not do machine work because that's what they do. I've used Heads by Paul before but I'm open to other suggestions.
I'll post pictures soon.
- Thread starter
- #25
2F Update and Parts List Request
Just thought I would post an update on my 2F engine rebuild and ask if anyone has a good list of all the parts I'm going to need for the project. I took the block, crank, head, and all the pieces to Smith Racing in Northglenn, Colorado today. Tom Smith was highly recommended by Kip Valdez of Metal Works Performance Engineering. Tom doesn't usually work on imports but he has done one other 2F in the past. So, I dropped everything off and Tom measured the bore to determine if it had ever been machined before and it hadn't. Tom also had a 2F Factory Repair Manual on hand which made me feel a little better about taking my motor project to him.
With that as background, does anyone have any suggestions, advice, things I should pass along to Tom before he gets started. Since I bought the 2F motor as a used motor that hasn't been running since who knows when and since the cylinder bores are a little rusty and scored I'm going to have them machined to the first oversize. The crank is in good shape but has a few grooves. It's right on the borderline so I'm just going to have that turned too. I really want to do everything right the first time on this motor so that I know the powerplant solid.
As for parts, if nobody has an existing list of all the various parts, gaskets, etc. for rebuilding a 2F that they could share I would greatly appreciate it. Otherwise, I'll go ahead and create one and share it with the board. Are there any specific parts that should be OEM? I'm willing to pay for OEM if they are truely better parts.
Thanks in advance for your help. Let me know if you would like to see any pictures of the progress.
Just thought I would post an update on my 2F engine rebuild and ask if anyone has a good list of all the parts I'm going to need for the project. I took the block, crank, head, and all the pieces to Smith Racing in Northglenn, Colorado today. Tom Smith was highly recommended by Kip Valdez of Metal Works Performance Engineering. Tom doesn't usually work on imports but he has done one other 2F in the past. So, I dropped everything off and Tom measured the bore to determine if it had ever been machined before and it hadn't. Tom also had a 2F Factory Repair Manual on hand which made me feel a little better about taking my motor project to him.
With that as background, does anyone have any suggestions, advice, things I should pass along to Tom before he gets started. Since I bought the 2F motor as a used motor that hasn't been running since who knows when and since the cylinder bores are a little rusty and scored I'm going to have them machined to the first oversize. The crank is in good shape but has a few grooves. It's right on the borderline so I'm just going to have that turned too. I really want to do everything right the first time on this motor so that I know the powerplant solid.
As for parts, if nobody has an existing list of all the various parts, gaskets, etc. for rebuilding a 2F that they could share I would greatly appreciate it. Otherwise, I'll go ahead and create one and share it with the board. Are there any specific parts that should be OEM? I'm willing to pay for OEM if they are truely better parts.
Thanks in advance for your help. Let me know if you would like to see any pictures of the progress.
- Thread starter
- #26
OEM 2F Pistons
Are oversized OEM pistons still available for my 2F project? Toyota dealer says they are no longer available.
Are oversized OEM pistons still available for my 2F project? Toyota dealer says they are no longer available.
I just got some oversize 3F pistons and rings from Toyota. Call Dan at American Toyota and if they exist he will be able to find them.
- Thread starter
- #28
Thanks for the reply. When talking with Dan, he mentioned that oversized 2F pistons were no longer available so I guess they're really gone.
Great thread
Keep the posting pics.
I would like to see that work bench with all the goodies
Keep the posting pics.
I would like to see that work bench with all the goodies
- Thread starter
- #30
More pics
Still working on the parts list with pricing. But, here are a few pictures of all the engine pieces. I'll try to get some pics of the block and crank after they have been machined.
Still working on the parts list with pricing. But, here are a few pictures of all the engine pieces. I'll try to get some pics of the block and crank after they have been machined.
- Thread starter
- #31
2F Rebuild Parts List
Here's a listing of all the various bits and pieces I'm going to need to get my 3/75 2F motor rebuilt and back on the road. I'm probably missing a few things so please let me know if you notice anything. Currently, I'm comparing OEM vs SOR, CCOT & MAF pricing.
Pistons
Piston rings
Rod bearings
Main bearings
Camshaft
Cam bearings
Lifters
Push rods
Crank gear
Cam gear
Oil pump
Freeze plugs
Pilot bearing
Key for harmonic balancer
Water pump
Timing plate gasket
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Crankcase seal
Cylinder head gasket
Valve cover gasket
Valve cover seals
Valve lifter cover gasket
Alternator belt
Spark plugs
Distributor cap
Rotor
Main Seal, Rear
Spark Plug Wire Set
Spark plug wires & coil wires
Air filter
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter
Oil pressure senting unit
Water Temp Sending Unit
Fuel pump gasket
Manifold Exhaust/Intake gasket
Water pump gaskets
Thermostat
Thermostat gaskets
Motor mounts
- Front
- Rear
Radiator
Plastic fan - 6 blade
Throttle cable - Accelerator linkage
1972 FJ40 Fuel tank
Here's a listing of all the various bits and pieces I'm going to need to get my 3/75 2F motor rebuilt and back on the road. I'm probably missing a few things so please let me know if you notice anything. Currently, I'm comparing OEM vs SOR, CCOT & MAF pricing.
Part Description
Pistons
Piston rings
Rod bearings
Main bearings
Camshaft
Cam bearings
Lifters
Push rods
Crank gear
Cam gear
Oil pump
Freeze plugs
Pilot bearing
Key for harmonic balancer
Water pump
Timing plate gasket
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Crankcase seal
Cylinder head gasket
Valve cover gasket
Valve cover seals
Valve lifter cover gasket
Alternator belt
Spark plugs
Distributor cap
Rotor
Main Seal, Rear
Spark Plug Wire Set
Spark plug wires & coil wires
Air filter
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter
Oil pressure senting unit
Water Temp Sending Unit
Fuel pump gasket
Manifold Exhaust/Intake gasket
Water pump gaskets
Thermostat
Thermostat gaskets
Motor mounts
- Front
- Rear
Radiator
Plastic fan - 6 blade
Throttle cable - Accelerator linkage
1972 FJ40 Fuel tank
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- Thread starter
- #32
Domed or Flat Top Pistons in 2F
I'm rebuilding my March 1975 2F motor. Where do I find .030 over domed pistons?
It looks like SOR has them for $60.00 each, are there any other suppliers that have the domed pistons for my 2F? Most that I've found are Flat-Top pistons and from what I've read, using flat-top pistons in a 2F lowers compression and isn't ideal.
As for rings, are Deves the best choice? I've seen lots of positive comments here on MUD about Deves rings. Toyota no longer has pistons available but I think I could still get OEM rings.
I'm rebuilding my March 1975 2F motor. Where do I find .030 over domed pistons?
It looks like SOR has them for $60.00 each, are there any other suppliers that have the domed pistons for my 2F? Most that I've found are Flat-Top pistons and from what I've read, using flat-top pistons in a 2F lowers compression and isn't ideal.
As for rings, are Deves the best choice? I've seen lots of positive comments here on MUD about Deves rings. Toyota no longer has pistons available but I think I could still get OEM rings.
- Thread starter
- #34
2F Pistons & Rings Search
After a considerable amount of research and a couple phone calls looking for pistons and rings for my 3/75 2F motor, I've finally given my engine builder the go ahead to order an engine kit. Here's what I've learned in the process:
- OEM pistons are no longer available, CDan had a set of rings
- CCOT doesn't have .030 over domed pistons available in stock at this time
- SOR has them available for $60 each and rings are $99 (brand unknown)
- Hastings makes early 2F pistons but they didn't get a good review from a machinist in Denver that rebuilds 2Fs
- Man-a-fre has 2F pistons and rings available that are .040 over for $275 (brand unknown)
- Man-a-fre also has Deves piston rings .030 oversized available and they get positive comments here on the MUD board. Not sure how they would work with other aftermarket pistons.
- Jieh Chueng Industrial, Co., Ltd., appears to make 2F pistons but I couldn't find much information
- Federal Mogul and Sealed Power are part of the same company. Sealed Power was recommended as the aftermarket piston of choice by a Denver machinist. However, Sealed Power is in the process of moving their manufacturing overseas so their pistons and rings are difficult to get at this time. I've been told that if you order Sealed Power pistons right now, you may get ITM pistons in a Sealed Power box.
- Given the current situation with Sealed Power, ITM pistons and Clevite rings(Mahle brand) are available through my engine builder at Engine Performance Warehouse (EPW). I think Clevite also makes 2F pistons.
I'm open to comments and corrections if this information isn't accurate.
After a considerable amount of research and a couple phone calls looking for pistons and rings for my 3/75 2F motor, I've finally given my engine builder the go ahead to order an engine kit. Here's what I've learned in the process:
- OEM pistons are no longer available, CDan had a set of rings
- CCOT doesn't have .030 over domed pistons available in stock at this time
- SOR has them available for $60 each and rings are $99 (brand unknown)
- Hastings makes early 2F pistons but they didn't get a good review from a machinist in Denver that rebuilds 2Fs
- Man-a-fre has 2F pistons and rings available that are .040 over for $275 (brand unknown)
- Man-a-fre also has Deves piston rings .030 oversized available and they get positive comments here on the MUD board. Not sure how they would work with other aftermarket pistons.
- Jieh Chueng Industrial, Co., Ltd., appears to make 2F pistons but I couldn't find much information
- Federal Mogul and Sealed Power are part of the same company. Sealed Power was recommended as the aftermarket piston of choice by a Denver machinist. However, Sealed Power is in the process of moving their manufacturing overseas so their pistons and rings are difficult to get at this time. I've been told that if you order Sealed Power pistons right now, you may get ITM pistons in a Sealed Power box.
- Given the current situation with Sealed Power, ITM pistons and Clevite rings(Mahle brand) are available through my engine builder at Engine Performance Warehouse (EPW). I think Clevite also makes 2F pistons.
I'm open to comments and corrections if this information isn't accurate.
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- Thread starter
- #35
OEM vs Aftermarket Parts Comparison
So all of my 2F engine rebuild parts have finally arrived! As part of this learning experience, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase mostly OEM parts and some of the same aftermarket parts to do a comparison of the quality and price. It's going to take some time to photograph the various pieces and post the pictures but it should prove useful to the board if everyone is patient.
The first parts comparison isn't real exciting - Freeze Plugs
I don't have an apples to apples price comparison on these because the aftermarket plugs came as part of the rebuild kit.
OEM on Left, Aftermarket on the Right
OEM Left, Aftmkt Right
Aftmkt close-up
OEM close-up
Next up - Connecting Rod Bearings
The OEM bearings are more finished and smoother than the aftermarket bearings.
Camshaft Bearings - OEM Left, Aftmkt Right
The OEM bearings appear to have some type of interlocking seam but are more finished than the aftermarket bearings.
Crankshaft Bearings - OEM Left, Aftmkt Right
Again the OEM bearings are a bit more finished than the aftermarket bearings.
OEM Bearings - Below
Aftermarket Bearing - Below
Manifold Gasket
OEM Top, Aftmkt Bottom
Aftmkt Left, OEM Right
More comparisons and other shinny new parts photos will be posted as time allows.
So all of my 2F engine rebuild parts have finally arrived! As part of this learning experience, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase mostly OEM parts and some of the same aftermarket parts to do a comparison of the quality and price. It's going to take some time to photograph the various pieces and post the pictures but it should prove useful to the board if everyone is patient.
The first parts comparison isn't real exciting - Freeze Plugs
I don't have an apples to apples price comparison on these because the aftermarket plugs came as part of the rebuild kit.
OEM on Left, Aftermarket on the Right
OEM Left, Aftmkt Right
Aftmkt close-up
OEM close-up
Next up - Connecting Rod Bearings
The OEM bearings are more finished and smoother than the aftermarket bearings.
Camshaft Bearings - OEM Left, Aftmkt Right
The OEM bearings appear to have some type of interlocking seam but are more finished than the aftermarket bearings.
Crankshaft Bearings - OEM Left, Aftmkt Right
Again the OEM bearings are a bit more finished than the aftermarket bearings.
OEM Bearings - Below
Aftermarket Bearing - Below
Manifold Gasket
OEM Top, Aftmkt Bottom
Aftmkt Left, OEM Right
More comparisons and other shinny new parts photos will be posted as time allows.
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- Thread starter
- #36
More OEM vs. Aftermarket Parts Comparisons
Cylinder Head Gasket
OEM Top, Aftmkt Bottom
OEM Left, Aftmkt Right
OEM Close-up
Aftmkt Close-up
Pistons
Cylinder Head Gasket
OEM Top, Aftmkt Bottom
OEM Left, Aftmkt Right
OEM Close-up
Aftmkt Close-up
Pistons
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- Thread starter
- #37
2F Exhaust Valve
One of the exhaust valves from my 2F had a blowby hole in it and needs to be replaced. I have a couple older F cylinder heads in my garage and I'm wondering if I should take a good exhaust valve from one of the extra heads or just go purchase one new valve? Are they all the same size?
One of the exhaust valves from my 2F had a blowby hole in it and needs to be replaced. I have a couple older F cylinder heads in my garage and I'm wondering if I should take a good exhaust valve from one of the extra heads or just go purchase one new valve? Are they all the same size?
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- Thread starter
- #38
2F Block
Just thought I would update my build project with some recent photos of the reassembled 2F engine block.
I'll be using Marine-Clean to remove any grease and oil and then Metal Ready to etch the block before painting. I'm hoping to paint the block tomorrow.
Just thought I would update my build project with some recent photos of the reassembled 2F engine block.
I'll be using Marine-Clean to remove any grease and oil and then Metal Ready to etch the block before painting. I'm hoping to paint the block tomorrow.
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Man you have put a lot of work into this engine! Research, photo documentation and web write up. I'm following this thread closely. My spare 2F will need this done eventually....
