Builds 1972 FJ40 FST Restoration (2 Viewers)

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The chronological time-line of restoring @Indygbd & @wngrog 's H KNOB first generation heater blower / fan-pull switch :

- Part # 87290-60030


- initial specimen presented as-is condition , however a excellent complete core to fully restore ....


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The switch is now completely dis-assembled down to its core bones 🦴 and all parts carefully evaluated for possible needed replacement
If they don’t meet my strict-azz specs.



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Next up , ALL parts are restored back to my specs. in a PLANT A-11
Day 1 of first use mind-set approach ..

- all copper and brass is hand polished and hand dressed back to a like-new condition .

- this includes both the main switch box itself and it’s stand-off back door hatch being freshly re-plated in gold zinc , the new and latest
technique and purple iridescence UNICORNS 🦄 rich conversion chemical formula …

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Prior to final assembly , the most critical step other then parts prep
is the application of fully synthetic water 💦 proof dielectric grease to both the sliding switch box 📦 itself and the top contacts portions

If anyone wants to know or had no idea why Toyota Land Cruiser
Pull Switches can easily last and function properly from 1962 - 10/85
That can easily be 60 years and counting it’s because toyota took
the key moment and extra step by steps to apply a old-skool organic
formula if just this and in a application manner of just that ..

I often have wondered how long with average age , time and daily normal use can or could one of my restored pull switches last
Due to the introduction of some modern materials and updated prep.
assembly steps you see above and will see also below ….

Time will tell and History will be the judge ..


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- final assembly pics prior to shipping out today ... :)


- Each and every complete pull switch , and or stand alone knob gets a updated stainless steel recessed HEX set screw and the client is provided 2 matching allen keys / 1 for a spare ..


- ALL pull switches receive one of the 5 variations of a period correct NEW aluminum pin wrench nut , all of witch are reproduced by the SKUNK-WORKS Laboratory & machined out of a solid slug of billet aluminum much harder then the original OEM ones with the added blend if nickle alloy as well , there final polished NOT
plated in any way



- the H knob receives 2-3 independent applications of our world famous fully synthetic TOP-SECERT " white compound " :cool:


-
the final end product Part # 87290-60030 lays before your eyes below for review and indeed : LIVES ONCE AGIAN ......


Kindly ,
Matt





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I searched both threads; could not find the wheel size; did you switch to 16s or 17s?

 
I have been going back and forth with Coolerman trying to figure out the last issues with the early harness and no flashers.

Turns out the flasher in this harness is wired for LED and I need standard. All I had to do was reverse the polarity in the flasher and boom…..errrr, blink.

 
All the lights are working properly. I got the fan switch installed and the blower wired up. I think I’m 99% finished with wiring at this point. Toyota Matt will be sending me the rest of the knobs to fill these empty holes. Only one that will be functional is the cowl vent rod under the dash.
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The Wizard is fixing the jump seat bases now….gonna take them for powder tomorrow

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The chuckle after the jump made me chuckle. Sweet ride.
 
Added the beautiful OEM door straps and dropped the windshield for todays ride.

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Weird though, the hood latches don’t have the proper groove to latch it down. I don’t have another one here to look at but is this the only way they come now?

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My SS knockoffs were like that as well. When I called to complain, the supplier told me that the manufacturer screwed up. I merely got busy with the Dremel. I thought it was lame but oh, well. You FJ is shore purty!!! Makes mine look like it was abandoned. In a swamp. In the 1800's.
 
CCOT makes the proper hood pin that can actually pivot all the way to hold down the windshield.

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Powder Keg came in big and got the jump seats powdered after the wizard swapped the bases back for me
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The angle of the seat is that way so you can run that drivers seat back all the way
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Also plugged the FST holes in the tub with OEM turn buckles
 
Last week when idling I felt like the motor was a bit too loud at idle. I broke out the stethoscope and the noise was coming from the valves. I set them but I figured I must have missed something.

I cracked it open warm this time and added maybe .001 to all of them.

Uh oh. That’s not it.




I fired it up and as you can hear, it’s perfect.


Then I looked inside the valve cover and you could just barely see where the rockers were tapping the valve cover vent tube in the F155 cover

I clearanced the 3 spots it was making contact and now she’s good to go



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