Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis

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I'm working as a stagehand at a musical my lovely bride is in so don't have the time to get much done, but managed frustrate myself in a failure to accomplish anything today. And took a picture of this.

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I just got a new cable from Cruiser Outfitters. It’s like $25 before shipping. Just a thought. (Was a gift for a friends that had a janky conversion…)

I used PC7 on my Chevelle steering wheel years ago and I’m sold! I covered it in SEM spray can Landau Black, then Spraymaxx 2k gloss clear coat. For a cruiser I’d use semi gloss.
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Come to think of it: I did my 71 steering wheel and used SEM Landau black and spraymaxx matte (or satin) clear. Thought it could’ve used just a little more sheen.
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Welp, mine didn't turn out anything like that. A combo of too much surface damage, lack of patience on my part and frankly not caring about visuals as much.

Here it is, farmer style. Later on down the road I'll pay to have a nice one but for today I have one that works.

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Welp, mine didn't turn out anything like that. A combo of too much surface damage, lack of patience on my part and frankly not caring about visuals as much.

Here it is, farmer style. Later on down the road I'll pay to have a nice one but for today I have one that works.

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You know what to do!

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Still fighting the clutch being stuck. Rig is running fine except when I forget to remove the parking brake.

Question for the group: I have a Weber carb to stock air cleaner conversion plate and I'm thinking about using that.
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I have the original 1F air cleaner housing that came with the rig, and a 2F air cleaner assembly that matches the engine. Both will fit, and both will take some modification to work. Anyone have an opinion or preference?

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Also, if I use the 1F air cleaner it takes a mounting plate. Anyone know where to find one of those?
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So I have 1" brake masters on the rear. Very slight corrosion which will clean up fine so I'm going to attempt a rebuild. Any suggestions? I'm doing some primitive camping over the weekend so won't be able to touch it until Sunday night or Monday.

Also need rear bearings while I'm in there I think

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Get your self a brake cylinder hone, oil it up, and do some light back and forth. Then do the fingernail test. If you can really feel the pits, time for new ones or a re-sleeve if you're brave and have a lot of time on your hands.
 
I stopped working on this rig to work on my FJ55, Zeke. Got back to Mavis and finished rebuilding the wheel cylinders.

Had a little scare when the right wheel had a pool of liquid under it. While tearing down the wheel cylinders to see what was wrong, I accidentally put my hand in the pool of oil. Said oil was much, much too thick to be brake fluid.

Seems to be fresh 90W.

So I have a bad seal on that side. I'm putting off fixing it until I can get the clutch working.

Except upon putting both brakes back together and mounting the wheels, now the driver's side rear wheel is locked up solid every time I torque the lug nuts.

I've disassembled that brake a few times, swapped pads, made sure the adjusters are all the way in, and even mounted the wheel in different positions and still it's locked up fairly solid.

The wheel will turn as if it has a parking brake on if I drive it back and forth, but will move not at all if I run it on jackstands, forward and reverse.

As that wheel worked fine before, I'm not getting what I did wrong here.
 

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