Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (5 Viewers)

Joined
May 6, 2020
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Seattle
Left hand bit did nothing but drill the hole deeper.

I can use a larger ez out now, but as you can see it's getting me nowhere.

View attachment 3069700

Unfortunately the hole is ever so slightly off center or I'd drill it out and rethread it, but am afraid that would ultimately ruin the bearing.

Am at a loss what to try next. This f*cker is in there good.

Do you have a dremel? I've been in this situation unfortunately (well, not on a crank, but a cylinder head). I had to use a hardened steel shank bit to grind the remaining metal to as close to the threads as possible, then I was was able to pick it out with a pic and some needle nose pliers. A quick tap to clean the threads. Requires a steady hand though; beers afterward.
 
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I stopped working on Mavis for a short time to knock another project out. Waiting lists are through the roof on parts and kits, so I asked my supplier if they had anything that was ready to go. Surprisingly, they had a presentation grade stock that had been rejected for a minor flaw. This is how it turned out, and I'm happy with it.

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Tomorrow back to wrenching....
 
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Have you ever had a project where it turned out great even though you made every mistake and nearly everything went wrong?

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I straightened the misdrilled hole by eye and step drilled it out using a 1/4, 5/16, and then 11/32. Then I ran a tap thru it and have somehow managed to save the threads.

I sluiced out the shavings by rotating the crank by hand and spraying 7870 through the bolt hole.

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Also installed the correct Toyota oil filler cap and the rest of the oil cooler delete.
 
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Have you ever had a project where it turned out great even though you made every mistake and nearly everything went wrong?
Most of my life could be summed up with a quote such as that.
 
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I'm just sitting here enjoying an adult beverage or three, happy to have succeeded in sketchy activities for once.
Ditto
 
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I installed the pilot bearing and the rear main seal. Super easy with homemade tools.

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Also installed the oil pan. The OEM gasket makes all the difference here. Conformed to the shape of the pan/block perfectly and took no real convincing to get er dun.
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Torqued this puppies to 95 in lb and called it good.
 
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Joined
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Been awhile since I touched a wrench. Too busy with settling Mom's estate and other extraneous things. Plus "retired" reasons. Oh, and new grandbaby.

Thought about resurfacing the flywheel but was able to evaporust the surface rust and little/no pitting so decided it was bubba standard.

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Lemme guess... That's the timing mark?
 
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Flywheel torqued, flywheel plates bent and now to figure out this mess.

I have identified the three main different fuel pumps.

The 1F pump interferes with the oil filter bracket. The 1984 pump has a return line and the 1975 pump has the in pipe cocked at an angle. So now I know I need a pump like the 1975 pump to make it work. Am guessing it won't need the phenolic spacer either.



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1F Fuel pump

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1984 2F fuel pump with return line
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1975 2F fuel pump, Assume it is PN 23100 - 61011?
 
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