Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (7 Viewers)

[Thechief86]

Who eats fuel pumps? This guy does.

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Had a minor heart attack when I saw big chunks of metal in the oil pan. It was magnetic, and turned out to match perfectly the OEM fuel pump arm. It was a good running engine, so I think it didn't mess much up.

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This is a fiber spacer for the fuel pump. Wondering if it is necessary to mount the OEM unit I have coming?

BTW, the final count on fuel pump gaskets was 6, plus half a gallon of sealant. I have NEVER seen that many stacked gaskets in an installation.

That is nutty! The 60 had that noisy electric pump on the fender and it ran well with that. I guess every modification has a story.... that 60 had a lot of stuff that told me the PO wasn't a mechanic, but did whatever he could to just keep the thing going. I never had the oil pan off of that engine, but figured it ran well so it must be fine...

 

[120mm]

That is nutty! The 60 had that noisy electric pump on the fender and it ran well with that. I guess every modification has a story.... that 60 had a lot of stuff that told me the PO wasn't a mechanic, but did whatever he could to just keep the thing going. I never had the oil pan off of that engine, but figured it ran well so it must be fine...

Based on the condition of the gasket, I doubt anyone has ever had the oil pan off. It's a genuine bugger to get off, with no evidence of FIPG or any other sealant.

 

[120mm]

Two, TWO fuel pump actuator arms! WTF happened here???

 

[Skreddy]

Two, TWO fuel pump actuator arms! WTF happened here???

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may have been using the longer pump (the one that requires the spacer) with no spacer? Maybe took a couple tries to figure it out.
Looking good!

 

[120mm]

may have been using the longer pump (the one that requires the spacer) with no spacer? Maybe took a couple tries to figure it out.
Looking good!

So when my pump shows up, I'm covered either way! Sweet!

 

[120mm]

Rock Auto sent me a new throw out bearing. It's different from the one I took off, but if you look at the wear pattern, I think it's the right part

The raised area on the new bearing on the right exactly matches where the 3 calipers align on the clutch. Not knowing any better, I went ahead and pressed it on.

I inherited this old vice from my dad. It's is my rifle building vice, but with an extra large socket it makes a reasonable press. I put the bearing in the freezer for an hour and set the other part in the 100 degree sun.

It went on way too easy. Hopefully this does the trick.

I derusted the clutch arm and slapped some paint on it and call it reconditioned.

 

[120mm]

Rock Auto sent me a new throw out bearing. It's different from the one I took off, but if you look at the wear pattern, I think it's the right part


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The raised area on the new bearing on the right exactly matches where the 3 calipers align on the clutch. Not knowing any better, I went ahead and pressed it on.


View attachment 3067089

I inherited this old vice from my dad. It's is my rifle building vice, but with an extra large socket it makes a reasonable press. I put the bearing in the freezer for an hour and set the other part in the 100 degree sun.

View attachment 3067088

It went on way too easy. Hopefully this does the trick.

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I derusted the clutch arm and slapped some paint on it and call it reconditioned.

Strike that, reverse it. The bearing went into the sun and that throw out pivot piece went into the freezer

 

[120mm]

I found a thread on installing main bearings seal that involved using the flywheel to press the bearing on.

Well, there is a potential issue with that.

 

[120mm]

Got a surprise Sunday delivery from Toyota

 

[firemanj92]

Rock Auto sent me a new throw out bearing. It's different from the one I took off, but if you look at the wear pattern, I think it's the right part


View attachment 3067090

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The raised area on the new bearing on the right exactly matches where the 3 calipers align on the clutch. Not knowing any better, I went ahead and pressed it on.


View attachment 3067089

I inherited this old vice from my dad. It's is my rifle building vice, but with an extra large socket it makes a reasonable press. I put the bearing in the freezer for an hour and set the other part in the 100 degree sun.

View attachment 3067088

It went on way too easy. Hopefully this does the trick.

View attachment 3067087

I derusted the clutch arm and slapped some paint on it and call it reconditioned.

I think your TO bearing is backwards. The flat, hardened side goes towards clutch fingers.

 

[120mm]

I think your TO bearing is backwards. The flat, hardened side goes towards clutch fingers.

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Why would the side with the brand and model be on the bearing surface? No way is the side that has that info engraved or stamped on it be hardened

It's possible it's the wrong bearing, but I highly doubt it's oriented incorrectly

 

[firemanj92]

Why would the side with the brand and model be on the bearing surface? No way is the side that has that info engraved or stamped on it be hardened

It's possible it's the wrong bearing, but I highly doubt it's oriented incorrectly

The TO for latter 74+ bearings of the 4 speeds, with multiple fingers, are curved but also bigger. Maybe the SKF/Timken brands are curved(?)

I've seized a TO not putting the hardened side out. It squealed before it seized. I just thought it was breaking in-what a chore to replace.
I just looked in my box of clutch parts, both the old and new TO's are flat. The one I installed 1500 miles ago is also flat. I seized the previous one by putting the curved side out after a motor rebuild. So when I saw the curved side out I thought it may be backwards.

 

[locklaw]

Why would the side with the brand and model be on the bearing surface? No way is the side that has that info engraved or stamped on it be hardened

It's possible it's the wrong bearing, but I highly doubt it's oriented incorrectly

As I have it, you need a flat bearing surface if you are using a 3 finger clutch diaphragm and a round beaded face one for a diaphragm type.

 

[120mm]

As I have it, you need a flat bearing surface if you are using a 3 finger clutch diaphragm and a round beaded face one for a diaphragm type.

That's good to know. I have a three finger clutch so will find and procure the flat face type

 

[120mm]

As I have it, you need a flat bearing surface if you are using a 3 finger clutch diaphragm and a round beaded face one for a diaphragm type.

Using the highly un-scientific method of cruising websites that advertise 3 finger clutch throw out bearings that have pictures, every single one displays a beaded face bearing. I'm going to do some experimentation now, because I have entered the land of confusion.

 

[120mm]

I piddled around with temp installing all my Toyota parts from Mcgeorge while pretending I didn't have a bolt broken off in my thrust bearing flange.

Then I proceeded to break off my ez out just to make things worse

 

[Thechief86]

I piddled around with temp installing all my Toyota parts from Mcgeorge while pretending I didn't have a bolt broken off in my thrust bearing flange. View attachment 3068602

Then I proceeded to break off my ez out just to make things worse View attachment 3068603

If you can get that easy out back out, I'd say your best best will be to take a sharp punch and a small hammer and try to tap it out that way. I have access to left handed drill bits also if you wanna try a couple of those

 

[Skreddy]

Here is how the bearing looks in my 1970, 3 finger clutch. Bearing looks identical to the one I replaced.

 

[120mm]

If you can get that easy out back out, I'd say your best best will be to take a sharp punch and a small hammer and try to tap it out that way. I have access to left handed drill bits also if you wanna try a couple of those

I've been needing a left handed drill bit set for awhile now, and will pick one up this afternoon. Thanks for the offer, tho!

 

[120mm]

Left hand bit did nothing but drill the hole deeper.

I can use a larger ez out now, but as you can see it's getting me nowhere.

Unfortunately the hole is ever so slightly off center or I'd drill it out and rethread it, but am afraid that would ultimately ruin the bearing.

Am at a loss what to try next. This f*cker is in there good.