1968 Farm Fresh Frame Off Resto

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get a tetanus shot, too.


What on earth are you talking about Dave!

J
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Nice truck in good shape - cool paint color, too.

RE: Engine/trans/PS

If you want low cost and ease of installation, stick with a 2F, 4 speed (non split), and consider minitruck PS. Minitruck PS will give you a slow turning ratio, some road feel (not always seen with Saginaw) and looks fairly stock.
 
Very cool. That is one of my favorite colors. It just screams mid 60s.

The turn signals are aftermarket replacements but that probably goes without saying. At least they are round. All things considered that 40 looks to be in really good shape.

I would say go to front discs (even though I am not on my '68......yet), Dual circuit, and booster (can be tricky with the firewall support and interference with the intake/exhaust/carb)

Power steering is probably unnecessary if it isn't gonna crawl rocks.

Keep the F if the numbers match; if not, put in 2f if it needs any machine work at all.

Can't really tell from the pics but PS fender doesn't look too bad and you can find one on a parts rig that is fixable if the one you have is too far gone.

keeping paint off of bolt heads looks better to me. I use beeswax and linseed oil mixed with a little lacquer thinner on (old) bolt heads. I'm sure many people think this is stupid but it is an old habit from restoring pre-war bicycles and motorcycles that I cant give up. I like how it looks.

I think the rhino winches were a dealer option but I'm no winch expert. Either way it is a cool item that you can totally mail to me if you don't want it. I'll even pay for shipping.:D

Subscribed. This is going to be good methinks......:popcorn:
 
Very cool. That is one of my favorite colors. It just screams mid 60s.

The turn signals are aftermarket replacements but that probably goes without saying. At least they are round. All things considered that 40 looks to be in really good shape.

I would say go to front discs (even though I am not on my '68......yet), Dual circuit, and booster (can be tricky with the firewall support and interference with the intake/exhaust/carb)

Power steering is probably unnecessary if it isn't gonna crawl rocks.

Keep the F if the numbers match; if not, put in 2f if it needs any machine work at all.

Can't really tell from the pics but PS fender doesn't look too bad and you can find one on a parts rig that is fixable if the one you have is too far gone.

keeping paint off of bolt heads looks better to me. I use beeswax and linseed oil mixed with a little lacquer thinner on (old) bolt heads. I'm sure many people think this is stupid but it is an old habit from restoring pre-war bicycles and motorcycles that I cant give up. I like how it looks.

I think the rhino winches were a dealer option but I'm no winch expert. Either way it is a cool item that you can totally mail to me if you don't want it. I'll even pay for shipping.:D

Subscribed. This is going to be good methinks......:popcorn:

Subscribed too. This looks like an awesome build in the making but if you can (relatively) easily swap in a 2f, could you then swap in a 3f? Eg. On a 2f 40, apparently it's not too hard to swap in a 3f. So would it be as easy? Just a thought I've had for a while
 
Update- talked to J. unfortunately, the rust is under the mid-floorpan. this will cause the costs to double, so the easier and less expensive path is to get a 3/4 tub. If anyone knows of an early rust free tub or one with minimal rust, please let me know.

On a side note, this is EXACTLY another reason why J rocks- he was able to tell me this without too much time invested and can determine that the more budget friendly option is another tub
 
Inner rocker to drivers pan is gone. Mid-pan has holes in it now that the flake rust has been removed. Between mid-pan and rear pan, the metal is laminated and needs to be broken apart to get rid of the rust. Wheel well tops front and rear are eaten through as well.

Someone could make it look good for a year or two, but not me. Id rather reject the project than see this cruiser return to Rustville in the near future.

Cheaper in the long run to wait and get a donor tub or an aftermarket and do it right.

However the cowl is in good condition....

I'll keep looking for a tub and work on the other items in the interim.

J
 
Thanks A. I reached out to him, looks like it will be sold to a fella in Iowa this week.

Dang. I'll keep my eyes out on Craigslist.
 
Fought the rest of the panels, fenders, windshield, and aprons off.

Leo is now tucked away outside for the time being. :princess: will go get a tarp in the next day or two and keep him out of the elements best we can.

I'll start the stripping, sanding and filling stage over the next few days.

**** the luck with the hidden rust. Here are a few pics.

J
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Dove into the sanding stage on some of the panels today. Hood, back hatch, and aprons.

Both sides are getting addressed. I will remove any and all rust I see.

Back of hood

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Top side

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!@*? BONDO/ FILLER LOVERS... about 1/4" +/- thick (BLASPHEMY) A little is understandable, but .... Note how the paint has cracked out. We'll get it right though.

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End of day poser pic.

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J
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wow, that looks great J!! too bad about the PS apron, I will look for one of those
 
wow, that looks great J!! too bad about the PS apron, I will look for one of those


Thanks Jas, I still have a way to go though. Slowly, but surely.

I'll strip the rest of the filler off the apron and see how bad the metal is underneath. Looked like it had been beat to death by the little I saw.

Hopefully it was an inexperienced person and just needs a good hammer and dolly workout. :D

I'll try and get some more done today. Gotta see what the :princess: has on the list before I go back to work.

J
 
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