- Thread starter
- #41
The blaster is a " little Blaster" by blast it all as earlier mentioned and the media is 70 grit - as hopefully the attached will show
1966 resto (1 Viewer)
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The blaster is a " little Blaster" by blast it all as earlier mentioned and the media is 70 grit - as hopefully the attached will show
No expert either but these should fit the stock 15" rims fine.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
x2 they will work... are you looking for a retro look? or good road manners to the tire?
there are several bias tires that have a very retro look... but... wear quickly if your planning to drive it alot
- Thread starter
- #44
Thanks for the replies and the info. I like the retro look and envision this as a weekend driver around town- in short I don't expect to put many weekly miles on the tires. From my recollection of earlier threads, the Yokos may be the way to go ( improved braking, avoiding flat spots, etc).
Again, not being a tire guy ( among many other "not a ____ guy"), I am open to suggestions. thanks again to all for the replies!!!!!!
Again, not being a tire guy ( among many other "not a ____ guy"), I am open to suggestions. thanks again to all for the replies!!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #45
Getting excited as things are coming together. The blasting produced a little collateral damage to the black painted portions of the engine compartment . I never felt completely comfortable with my decision to go with the black but it was my best rattle can option( Transtar).i did paint the center section 416 with a Preval sprayer but was not satisfied with the finish. Purists rejoice- I'm replacing the black with uniform 416!
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- #46
Great news- No rust! No exaggeration. In my part of the country water will rust. This was an AZ cruiser and had remnants of undercoating. Blast residue dried and has been vacuumed . Holes from cargo tie downs, jerry can, and antennae( is there a 60's model out there without a CB antenna-I ran a CB radio on both my 67 and 77 way back when) have been filled in.
BretwithoneT
SILVER Star
Funny, two '66s from AZ ending up in NC 48 years later getting spiffed up at the same time. Mine came through TX and got some sill rust so I'm replacing the sill and some of the quarters right now. You got lucky and yours looks fantastic!
Are you going to put something special on the frame/chassis or just repaint?
Who did you get to do the water blasting? How much was it?
Are you going to put something special on the frame/chassis or just repaint?
Who did you get to do the water blasting? How much was it?
- Thread starter
- #48
I noticed that when you first replied ( Misery loves company....
). I would love to see pics of yours.
I was very fortunate with respect to the tub and sheet metal. I have been hitting the frame/chassis/differentials with a satin black Transtar paint and have been very pleased with the way it lays down.In short, I'm going to repaint. Hopefully I'll just need to touch up. I also applied a rubberized undercoating to the underneath except in the wheel well areas. As the thread probably indicates, I began with the notion of stopping leaks and "making it look better". Unfortunately it's like dominoes and the "next thing I knew I had...." Due to my lack of planning, I've done some things "bass ackwards"
.
I got a local guy to do the blasting work who apparently is an absentee owner who recently returned "hands on" to the business.In hindsight, he substantially underbid estimating four hours @125.00/per hour and he agreed in advance to cap the rate at four hours. I think he learned from this experience and will probably only charge hourly rates hereout. Excluding travel,prep, and cleanup he probably took 6.5 hours. Company name is strippers (Jim) 910 470-7500 and he is located in Brunswick Co. I am sold on the glass as an acceptable way to go back to metal.
Frank
). I would love to see pics of yours. I was very fortunate with respect to the tub and sheet metal. I have been hitting the frame/chassis/differentials with a satin black Transtar paint and have been very pleased with the way it lays down.In short, I'm going to repaint. Hopefully I'll just need to touch up. I also applied a rubberized undercoating to the underneath except in the wheel well areas. As the thread probably indicates, I began with the notion of stopping leaks and "making it look better". Unfortunately it's like dominoes and the "next thing I knew I had...." Due to my lack of planning, I've done some things "bass ackwards"
.I got a local guy to do the blasting work who apparently is an absentee owner who recently returned "hands on" to the business.In hindsight, he substantially underbid estimating four hours @125.00/per hour and he agreed in advance to cap the rate at four hours. I think he learned from this experience and will probably only charge hourly rates hereout. Excluding travel,prep, and cleanup he probably took 6.5 hours. Company name is strippers (Jim) 910 470-7500 and he is located in Brunswick Co. I am sold on the glass as an acceptable way to go back to metal.
Frank
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- Sep 25, 2011
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Loving it!
- Thread starter
- #50
Picked up the seat frames/ components , heater box, glove box and related small pieces from the powder coater today. Very pleased with how they came out! Sorry for the pic quality but we set a record low temp yesterday and it's too cold to take pics outside. Anyone have any leads on fabric and color for the seats?
BretwithoneT
SILVER Star
Those pewter pieces look great! Did your PC guy have the right color or did you have to track it down? I know Aatlas1x (member here) has some of the powder on Metrictlc.com. He also made some awesome coral seat covers that Destin used on his build and that's what I plan to get next month. He also makes some fantastic repro decals.
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- #52
I got the powder number off of a MUD thread and gave it to the PC and he ordered. I can get the number if you need it. I would also highly recommend my local PC Jeff at LiveWire. Great guy-personable as well as professional. I carried the parts to him months ago with the understanding I wasn't in any hurry. It was a small enough job he could work it in around/between larger jobs. I must have missed the covers on Aatlas1X's site-I'll check again.
thanks
thanks
- Thread starter
- #53
Coming along. Pics are after 1coat of self-etching primer. Plans are to follow with 3 coats of urethane primer, block sand, 3 more coats,etc
In the meantime still blasting, priming and rattle canning smalls
In the meantime still blasting, priming and rattle canning smalls
- Thread starter
- #54
Seat cover color needed! I need help. I am trying to find a vinyl close to OEM and I am coming up short. "Coral" is what is usually used to ID these on MUD but I have yet to find a manufacturer that offers the color or (to me) anything close (pics make it appear almost orange). The options appear to be Aatlas1x, SOR or a local upholstery shop.The first is great and the second is functional. My best price seems to be the latter-particularly if I can find a suitable material/color. Although my preference is OEM close, I am open to suggestions and solicit your comments or suggestions for a sharp match to a Dune Beige. Thanks!!!!!!!!!
On page 2 , I spied 4 rod storage clips that had been blasted clean to paint - are those sized for the jack extension rods or the starting handle ??
I'm working on trying to prototype those starting handle clips so I can offer reproductions .
Sarge
I'm working on trying to prototype those starting handle clips so I can offer reproductions .
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #56
My guess is jack extension rods. "Leaky" came without jack rods, jack, etc.
These were removed from the top side of the rear passenger wheel well
These were removed from the top side of the rear passenger wheel well
- Thread starter
- #57
Sorry for the short reply. My phone was ready to send before I was.
I'll be happy to assist you in any way that I can
Again the rig came to me without jack,tools, rods, handle, etc
Frank
I'll be happy to assist you in any way that I can
Again the rig came to me without jack,tools, rods, handle, etc
Frank
Looking closer , they appear to fit the smaller jack rods as is usually the case . Looks like rod size is a bit bigger than the hood hinge pins in the pic , bummer . The starter handle brackets would be bigger , almost the outside of hinge diameter . I have a late model thinner clip coming , will have to adjust the metal thickness to replace the early ones . Appreciate the help !
Sarge
Sarge
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
It seemed someone in the 25 section had found a coral color material very close to stock. Try searching this section. I haven't checked Aatlas1X site in along time. I know he is not on mud much anymore and people were having a hard time getting hold of him. Glad to hear he still around making products. As I remember the seat covers weren't cheap. Didn't think SOR had coral seat covers. Problem I had was Shane coral seat covers were for the 64 and later bench seats and SOR pre 64 cover that worked for the early FJ40 as well as FJ25 were only in grey. If SOR has coral seat covers won't be surprised if they are from Shane. That has happened with light lenses and hubcaps as well as other item. Someone reproduced something sells them here and bulk sells the rest to SOR. Personally if your not looking to restore and then sell but rather use I wouldn't spend big money on seat covers that will probably be worn pretty good if you decide to sell later. The trick is finding the right balance of restoring so it looks nice but still willing to use it. Seen some FJ40 done so nice owners were afraid to sue them and in the end just sold it rather then have it just sit in their garage.
- Thread starter
- #60
Notwithstanding the quote, "better to be quiet and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt..." I'll ask where would the starter handle bracket(s) be mounted on a 66? I didn't come across any "unused holes" on top of the passenger wheel well nor do I recall any in the compartment under the drivers seat where the jack brackets are located. If helpful, I'll be glad to photo and measure with mic's the specs for these brackets-let me know.
Frank
