I'm working on a customer's 66 FJ40 and noticed that it take a while to build oil pressure. This may be a stupid question, but do these engines take a while to build oil pressure or is it just worn out and time for a rebuild? There is a slight knocking until oil pressure builds. It can take up to 30 seconds for oil pressure to register on the gauge. The gauge is a Dakota Digital. There is also a remote filter installed.
1966 FJ40 Oil Pressure
- Thread starter DC Automotive
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Seems normal to me. These are tractors not F1's. When I go to start an engine that has set for years, I pull the spark plugs and shoot in a few cc's of Marvel's Mystery oil in each jug. Let set for a while, pull the engine threw a few revolutions by hand, to distribute the oil and make sure its free. Then I use the starter to whirl it over until it shows oil pressure on the gauge, which can take some time. Re-install plugs and start the motor with fresh gas. When I put them to sleep, I dose them MMO, pull them threw to distribute the oil, then add a few cc's more and put the spark plugs back in.
The real solution is a Pre-Oiler. Steel can at least one liter, maybe 2 - spring valve in bottom. Plumbed into oil line. Open valve, start engine, oil under pressure is pushed into can in like 30 seconds to a few minutes. Release valve to close. Shut off engine - top off oil level. Next time you go to start the engine - open the valve - oil under pressure will go into oil line - start engine - oil will flow back into pre-oiler can; close valve. Rinse and repeat at every engine start.
I read that like 90% of engine wear occurs at start up - the pre-oiler would certainly help, so do good oil supplements.
My 72 never had a good working oil pressure gauge. New sender's didn't fix it so I installed a lighted direct read gauge. It is mounted on a self made bracket on the steering column. I ran the plastic oil line inside fuel hose from the back of the gauge to the engine side of the fire wall - that way if the plastic line broke I would not get a face full of hot oil. I also carry a pipe plug in the ash tray to block off the broken line at he engine block. Never had to use the plug since I put the system in back in like 85.
If I ever get a new engine I would install a pre-oiler at day one. On an old worn engine, it couldn't hurt, but I doubt its worth the effort.
The real solution is a Pre-Oiler. Steel can at least one liter, maybe 2 - spring valve in bottom. Plumbed into oil line. Open valve, start engine, oil under pressure is pushed into can in like 30 seconds to a few minutes. Release valve to close. Shut off engine - top off oil level. Next time you go to start the engine - open the valve - oil under pressure will go into oil line - start engine - oil will flow back into pre-oiler can; close valve. Rinse and repeat at every engine start.
I read that like 90% of engine wear occurs at start up - the pre-oiler would certainly help, so do good oil supplements.
My 72 never had a good working oil pressure gauge. New sender's didn't fix it so I installed a lighted direct read gauge. It is mounted on a self made bracket on the steering column. I ran the plastic oil line inside fuel hose from the back of the gauge to the engine side of the fire wall - that way if the plastic line broke I would not get a face full of hot oil. I also carry a pipe plug in the ash tray to block off the broken line at he engine block. Never had to use the plug since I put the system in back in like 85.
If I ever get a new engine I would install a pre-oiler at day one. On an old worn engine, it couldn't hurt, but I doubt its worth the effort.
Is this a newly started after sitting for a long time? Was anything done engine wise?
You could pull the dizzy and use a driver on end of drill and spin the oil pump … if you have the valve cover off you should be able to see the oil come out … it’s more of a drizzle out the rocket shaft… spinning it this way will take awhile for oil to get to the rocket shaft
If your getting oil up there then you know the pump is working well
Be sure to reinstall the dizzy correctly having it fully seated … if your not fully seated you will not get oil pressure
The remote oil filter next to the carb with oil lines going to the block is standard type of system on the F until 9/73
You could pull the dizzy and use a driver on end of drill and spin the oil pump … if you have the valve cover off you should be able to see the oil come out … it’s more of a drizzle out the rocket shaft… spinning it this way will take awhile for oil to get to the rocket shaft
If your getting oil up there then you know the pump is working well
Be sure to reinstall the dizzy correctly having it fully seated … if your not fully seated you will not get oil pressure
The remote oil filter next to the carb with oil lines going to the block is standard type of system on the F until 9/73
Put a mechanical gauge on it and see what's happening. I shouldn't be knocking. It maybe needs a pump or a rebuild. It's not that difficult to pull the pan and check bearings or pump.
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The pre 9/73 only part of the oil got filtered. It Teed after the pump . Some going thru the filter and drained back into The oil pan. The rest went thru the passages in the engine. The oil filter was always remote until 9/73. Possibly the filter filling could cause a delay in oil pressure. The OEM oil filter in 1966 was pretty primitive.
My 69 had a broken oil feed to the rockers and had probably done thousands of miles like that - rocker bearings are worn, valve tips have worn into rocker faces. Cleaned crud out of everything, new oil feed, set clearances to just touching then back off 1/4 turn and the old girl actually runs niceish. With all the extra rocker and shaft wear it takes 5 minutes at idle until oil makes it out the drip holes onto the valve tips. This will have to do until I can fit 2f rocker gear and oil pump.
I have a 68 with the original F, and a Dakota digital dash. The sender is basically a GM unit and mounts at the back end of the main oil gallery….after the relief and the tap for oil filter.
Yes, it takes a few seconds for it to build up oil pressure…..and I believe it’s because the ‘Bypass’ oil filter drains a bit after the engine is off, e.g. takes a few seconds for the filter to refill.
If the sender were located on the front of the oil gallery, I don’t think it would be as noticeable.
Carlie Meyers is correct, it’s a tractor, and as long as oil pressure eventually comes up, all is good.
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- #10
Thanks for the replies. Here is a little more information. According to the customer, since he's owned it which is a few years, the gauge has always taken some time to register oil pressure. He brought it to me to fix an oil leak, and what I found was somehow the oil pan where the drain plug is got smashed in so the plug would not seal properly. I replaced the oil pan, filled it up with oil, and I couldn't get any oil pressure. I removed the dizzy, and tried priming the oil pump, but still couldn't get any oil pressure. It wasn't until I removed the regulator, squirted some oil back into the engine, reinstalled the regulator, then manually spun the oil pump and eventually I got oil pressure. It was a few days before I could get back to it to reinstall the distributor, and back to no oil pressure. I know the distributor is seated in the oil pump as I felt 2 "clicks" when installing it back into the engine, and the base of the dizzy is sitting completely against the block.
This has me confused as I don't see how replacing the oil pan could cause not having any oil pressure. I did get the oil pan and gasket direct from Toyota, so they should be correct. There was not any excessive sludge in the old oil pan. For some reason, the oil system is not keeping it's prime, so I am looking for suggestions as to what I missed, or is there a "check valve" somewhere what just happen to go bad at the same time I did the oil pan?
Thanks again for your help.
This has me confused as I don't see how replacing the oil pan could cause not having any oil pressure. I did get the oil pan and gasket direct from Toyota, so they should be correct. There was not any excessive sludge in the old oil pan. For some reason, the oil system is not keeping it's prime, so I am looking for suggestions as to what I missed, or is there a "check valve" somewhere what just happen to go bad at the same time I did the oil pan?
Thanks again for your help.
My Dakota digital reads high when wet (shorted). Believe it when it reads low.
Might you add a mechanical gauge under the hood?
It may be building pressure but you’re not seeing it.
It may be building pressure but you’re not seeing it.
Remove sender and spin motor over to check for flow, if oil comes out hole is probably sender issue, or the pressure regulator is not closing fully. F and 2f pans are different - may need a 2f pump
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- Thread starter
- #15
This may be the problem, but how are the oil pans different? The replacement pan I have looked like the old one and it bolted right up without any problems. The only difference I noticed was that the drain plug was smaller than the old one. Also what's the difference between the F and 2F oil pumps? Are they easily interchangeable? I see many 2F pumps available, but the F oil pumps are next to impossible to find.
Not sure of the difference but I plan on fitting a 2f pump to my 69 when i replace the rockers and all the advice I've found on Mud and elsewhere says to swap pans as well. Can't help further until I do the job. 2f pumps have an internal bypass but doesn't seem to be an issue fitted to an F. All I can think of is the f pickup might be tight against a 2f sump. Dont know how i changed my font, have to find a child
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The baffles in the oil pans are different. You'll have to trim them to fit around the oil pickup. Also, the F oil pans were made of thicker steel than the later 2Fs
I don't know. I've not heard of this swap before. Not sure how well the oil passages would line up. What do you do with two pressure relief valves? I liked the oil pressure relief valve on the outside of the block, you can clean and adjust it without dropping the pan. Do you suspect the oil pump? I bet there's a procedure for measuring the gear lash in the FSM, I know there's one for the Late F oil pump. In the Late F oil pump, you can flip one of the gears to give you another lifetime of service out of it. Don't know if this works in the earlier Fs, I've got a spare Late F oil pump (same as the 2F) but not a spare early F to compare.