1965 FJ40 starting issues (1 Viewer)

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Krondor

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Mar 26, 2017
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Greenville, SC
Hey guys,

So I installed my rebuild SD-40 carb onto Flora Jean's 1F 135 engine. I put new oil, coolant, spark plugs, coil... pretty much everything that could be replaced without opening her up. She chooched right up after sitting for over 10 years. I did a valve adjustment and tried to get her idle down. She was idling around 1800rpm. The timing was spot on with the BB. When I tried to turn the idle down, the engine would sputter, missfire and die.

Not really knowing what I am doing, took the distributor out because I thought it might be a tooth off... I made sure the engine was at TDC for cylinder 1,(flywheel line at the needle after the bb).
74%20Dizzy_05.JPG

Electronic Distributor Trollhole in a 1974 FJ40

I then lined the distributor rotor with the number 4 spark plug wire like the above thread mentioned.

When I tried to start it again, The engine would turn and turn then BANG!!!!. Sounded like a freaking shotgun blew up. So I double checked everything and I moved the distributor over a tooth. Now it faces the number 1 spark plug wire. The engine tries to turn over but shoots a mist of gasoline up out of the carb.

Am I doing something horribly wrong? I do not want to attempt again for fear I might blow the engine up.... Any suggestions?

Thanks,
 
i pull number one plug and stick a wooden spoon in and feel the piston when it comes up
 
Another way to know you are at TDC compression is pull the #1 spark plug. Stuff a wad of toilet paper in the spark plug hole opening(obviously not all the way into the combustion chamber). Put rig in 4th gear, pull the rig forward, the TP will pop out and sound like a kids toy cork gun went off. Now rock it back to the bb pressed in flywheel. A flat concrete surface makes moving the rig by hand easy.

Make sure the dissy is fully seated so it will turn the oil pump.

Not sure about SD40’s but with a newer Aisan carb you can disconnect the idle fuel cutoff solenoid while the rig is running and the rig should die. If it doesn’t die, your butterfly could be cracked open so it’s sucking fuel from the main circuit.
 
You can twist a rag into the hole and watch it blow out.

But you don’t have to do any of that. You already know you’re 180 degrees off so just rotate the flywheel until it hits the timing mark and the distributor is opposite where it’s supposed to be. Then just reinsert in proper orientation.
 
Remember that a cylinder only fires every other rotation. TDC can be compression for #1, or with another rev it will be for #6. (Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4.) So at the TDC mark, either #1 or #6 can be correct. If it is trying to fire now without explosions, I'd fiddle with the timing a bit. I think you are close.
 
Great, I'll bet that feels good. My book ( which is # 98042) Not sure of the year but it is for the F Engine says 500rpm.
 
So I have a question. Why does an engine need positive crankcase ventilation? My main issue as I found out was that I was missing my PVC hose... and the timing was off. Even when the timing was correctly adjusted, the PVC hose being missing caused such a huge difference. Why is that?
 

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