Nissan 1964 Nissan Patrol soft top frame off restoration

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crushers said:
looks better than factory ...
congrats on the patience.
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Thanks Wayne!!

Yesterday was paint the inside of the frame day. I bought a 3M spray gun used for applying undercoatings, it has a long wand on it. The Rust Bullet is to thick without thinning to work with the wand, even thinned down it didn't seem to want to work. So I just used the short 3" nozzle that came with the spray gun. It worked great! I put it in every hole on the frame and rotated it 360 degrees. After a lot of inspection with a flash light, it appears I have a nice thick coating all over on the inside of the frame. The recommended pressure to use with the gun is 35-45psi, after playing around with pressure I bumper that up to the 60psi range which gave me better results. With the higher pressure it seems to have blasted the paint farther into the frame rails. Any ways, I laid down two coats yesterday inside the frame. We then flipped the frame over, today I will lay down the last coat inside the frame rails. I am very happy with the results, not only is the frame now protected inside the Rust Bullet is also supposed to encapsulate any existing rust. This being a desert truck there isn't much rust inside the frame rails but what is there is now sealed up. On top of all this I think an added benefit is sound deadening. With 6mm or more of Rust Bullet sprayed it should at the least provide a bit of sound deadening to the frame.

BTW, as you can see in all the pictures, the Patrol frame is fully boxed in. Unlike a lot of other trucks there is simply no access to the inside of the frame. Without dipping the frame it is a dirty, messy, nasty job to try and coat it all. However, since this is a restoration to me it was well worth the effort and expense to seal up the inside of the frame. It should now be good to go even in harsh environments for many years to come. I spent a lot of time cleaning the inside of the frame as best as possible including using the RB Metal Blast on it. So I think I got great adhesion inside the frame. It is difficult to try and get a picture of inside the frame rails, I have tried already! But I did take a before picture and will take an after and see if they are good enough pictures to post up.

Cheers
 
DeltaT said:
Your frame is a work of art ! :beer:
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Thank you sir!


Today = fun! Well, not really but anyways....

now that the inside of the frame is all painted. It is time for me to remove all the excess paint that has dripped out of the holes and so forth. I actually went and sealed up all the edges, nooks and crannies on the frame with Rust Bullet too. This includes all the factory brackets that are welded to the frame along with the seam along the frame rails. The point of this is, there is definitely corrosion between these pieces of steel, you can see examples of this when I did surgery awhile back. So the point of the Rust Bullet in these areas is to seal up any corrosion and stop it from getting worse. They way this frame was manufactured there is no other way to try and deal with this other than dipping or galvanizing, neither of which we are doing. However, I made a mess with the RB and now I get to wire brush it all back!

Fun times!

:cheers:
 
This should be a big week for the Patrol.

I am heading to Idaho in a few days with a load to be sand blasted. Mostly stuff for the rolling chassis. May finally get paint all worked out this week too, it has been a lot of work to get this dialed in but it may be finalized this week. The engine is ready to go to the machine shop. If I have time to organize it all, it is all in pieces, then it will go with me to Idaho in a few days and to the machine shop. Details on winch cage should be finalized this week too. The frame is done by tomorrow night and will be going to the painter this week also. All parts being plated (chrome, zinc, cadmium) will be sent off in the next few days. Transmission and other parts from Colombia should be here this week so getting close on rebuilding all the gear boxes too.

Like I say...big week for the Patrol!

cheers
 
I know, I know, I said no more pictures of the frame! Everybody is probably bored with pictures of the frame but I finished the frame 100% last night so will post a round of pictures of the frame 100% completed. These pictures are both top & bottom of the frame with some detailed pictures too. If you look close you can see where I have left the Rust Bullet in the corners, nooks, crannies and along seams. In a few locations it has also acted as a "filler". The frame is all sanded back with 180g now and ready for paint.

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On the backside of the steering box mount there was two of the sleeved holes that had collapsed a bit. Nothing major but it wasn't a nice surface to mount the steering box and bolts to. I suspect they had collapsed from over tightening or just many years of heavy use, the steering box puts a lot of force on the frame. Anyways, grade 8 washers were welded on the back side of the steering box mounts.

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Here are the best pictures I could get of the Rust Bullet applied inside the frame, same location on frame for both pictures.

Before, you can see it was a desert truck by how clean it is. Very little rust and factory paint still there.

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After three coats of RB.

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I was going to head to Idaho today with a load for the sand blaster but finishing the frame yesterday didn't give me enough time to get all the things I need sand blasted rounded up. So today is finishing off getting all the rolling chassis parts in order for sand blasting. Tomorrow is go to Idaho! I am also in the process of dialing in suspension stuff. Meaning, shackles, pins, bushes, spring plates and so forth. I am going to have to order a few things for that. Friday I will take the frame to the painter. The last of the transmission parts showed up the other day so I am starting to organize all the trans/t-case/PTO stuff for rebuilds. Also will be getting the engine to the machine shop soon so I need to organize all those parts.

Cheers
 
Bit of an update....

I have gone through all our axle, trans & t-case parts and organized them. I have also dug out a spare front axle I have that is completely torn down and cleaned. I have most bearings and seals on hand to rebuild both axles but I am lacking the carrier bearings.

The place helping me locate the carrier bearing is a local business, they have a supply house in Idaho. They also fell they can take care of seals and shims if I need any.

https://ec.kamandirect.com/us/index.jsp

Any ways, here are some pictures.....

Box of trans & t-case parts ready to go.

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Spare front axle, the housing is being sand blasted. I have two other spare front axles to work with too, one will have CV's in it rather then the tracta-joints seen in this picture. My plan is to use the best gear from all three axles and build one very nice axle.

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New axle parts getting organized.

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These are the top knuckle cap or trunnion bearings. These are listed as an "option" in the parts books. Standard being just a regular bearing. I think this is kind of a funky design and not sure why Nissan did them this way although I am sure they had a reason. The only way I may be able to replace the brass races is to have them turned up on a lathe.

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This is the new Warn hubs next to another brand that was available in the 1960's for the Patrol. I don't recall the brand name of the one on the right, I think they are funky, weaker than the Warns and I do not like them.

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I got two other spare front axles. The stock one from the 64 and the one under a 77 Ute. So I should have plenty to work with in order to get a good front axle together. The rear axle uses the same ring & pinion so I basically have four R&P to pick from and I only need two good ones. The only parts I am really missing in new form right now for the axles are carrier bearings and some shims. Should have that worked out soon and then I am ready to rebuild both axles from drum to drum. There are a few bearings we don't have for the trans & t-case but I am confident the trans rebuild shop will be able to locate those.

Last bit for this update. I am having all the spring plates and shackle plates fabricated to match stock. I am buffing it all up just a touch by using 3/8" plate for all these pieces. Stock was either 5/16s or 3/8s for the shackle plates and the spring plates look like 1/4". U-bolts are jumping up in size from the stock 1/2" to 5/8's. The stock pins in both the shackles and fixed leaf mount are all 5/8's. That is big and plenty strong but most trucks these days use a 1/2" or 9/16" pin. So I have to track down some new 5/8's pins. Alcan (who made the leaf springs) says this should not be a problem so I am sending them a small box of sample parts I need them to match up.

Cheers
 
The new shackle and spring plates are done. All built from 3/8s. Here are pictures where you can see the new vs the old...

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Now we just need some new pins, u-bolts and bushings and it is a done deal. :)
 
Good job ! And you're not cutting corners. Love it ! :cheers:
 
Thanks for the positive feedback guys!

We decided today to re-make one of the spring plates. Will post a picture and details on why when it is done.

Sand blasting of axles, leaf springs and many other parts was done as of this morning. I am headed to Idaho in a day or two to pick it all up and take to the painter. Then it is just a short wait to get it all back to my shop and start assembly. I have a few bearings to locate and some shims for the axles. And some new pins, bushes & u-bolts for the suspension. Otherwise it is all ready to go for rebuilds!

Trans, t-case, PTO box and PTO winch are all going to the rebuild shop the same day I pick up the sand blasted parts. The engine is soon to follow to the machine shop for rebuild. Chromed parts have been sent off for fresh plating. Zinc/cadmium parts are being sent off tomorrow if all goes well.

The holidays is probably going to slow things down a bit but the ball is starting to roll forward faster!

Cheers
 
So today was spent working on getting chassis stuff ready for paint. We spent a solid hour deciding on a plan of attack and a bunch of other details. Final decisions worth mentioning were; tear down rear axle before paint, rebuild axles in my shop but rebuild the rolling chassis in the body guys shop. This means much less moving things around but more time for me spent in his shop. Not a worry, his shop rocks! I am not using the front axle housing seen in the pictures that is an assembly. I am using a better housing that is already torn down. I am using the brake drums on the complete front axle and probably some internals. Any ways, I am not tearing down the front axle all the way before paint since the better spare is already torn down.

Not much else to tell, I fought with the rear axle a bit...drum retaining screw busted off, easy out broke off in that after drilling! Axle shafts don't want to come out of the bearing cage without the right puller, ect ect. Should have the axle done in an hour or two tomorrow though.

Cheers

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better skid plate in the foreground that will get used on the oil pan.

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Rear axle tear down...

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The front axle housing I am using...

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The knuckle balls on this axle are good which is why I am using it. They should polish up nicely. Plus the other front housing has some scabby welds that would need to be cleaned up, this housing does not!

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Oh ya and here is the new spring plate we made to replace the one that came out a bit unsatisfactory. This is the spring plate for the front that sits under the pumpkin. Plenty of meat along the edges now!

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What is the casting shown up-close in the ninth pic down of your most recent update? Pics eight and nine, also shown in the first three pics...
 
Pacer said:
What is the casting shown up-close in the ninth pic down of your most recent update? Pics eight and nine, also shown in the first three pics...
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That is the timing gear case for the engine.

:cheers:
 
Perhaps I missed it, but what about having the frame galvanized? It seems that galvanizing ensures they every bit of the frame is coated.

I love old Datsun's......makes me miss my 1977 620.


Zack
 
Zack1978 said:
Perhaps I missed it, but what about having the frame galvanized? It seems that galvanizing ensures they every bit of the frame is coated.

I love old Datsun's......makes me miss my 1977 620.


Zack
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Hey Zack...

galvanizing is for Rovers! :p

Just kidding. The topic never came up between the owner of the truck and myself. Nor did powder coating. I am not a big fan of powder coating frames since it will eventually chip. I have nothing against galvanizing but don't really think it is necessary unless the truck is expected to see lot's of road salt or plenty time in the mud. On top of this it is 500 miles each way to the nearest glavi dip tank. That would have made it a bit expensive to galvanize. Being a desert truck I felt it was in good enough condition to simply coat the inside of the frame after extensive cleaning, which it got a pretty heavy coating of Rust Bullet.

By the way....chrome plating all good to go. Received estimate back from SLC Chrome Plating and it is approved. Also received a go ahead on the zinc/cadmium plating. I was pretty surprised with their estimate, we are using Quality Plating in SLC. I sent them 40lbs of gear so kind of expected it to be expensive. It came back at well under half the cost of the chroming which was only about 20 items to chrome. I have never had anything zinc/cadmium plated so it seems I learned it is not as expensive as I thought.

I am back into the restoration right after Christmas.....

:cheers:
 
A good few days logged since my last update on the 64. There is always more work then you think when it is actual time to get things done. :rolleyes:

Sneaky spy pictures! :grinpimp:


Here is the knuckle ball, polished with a wire brush. After polishing you can see the groove in it pretty good, this sucker is less than 1mm deep though. There is also some light pitting present. FYI, if water contaminated grease sat in the knuckle and the truck sat for years at a time, it is almost a for sure you have a groove on the ball. Pitting will also be present. I have seen much much worse then this and I actually consider this to be in very good condition. Without a good surface for the seal to sit on here, keeping the knuckle dry and clean will be very difficult. LandCruiser guys should be pretty familiar with this stuff. A badly pitted or deep groove can only be fixed by getting the ball chromed.

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Here is the other side after working it for about an hour by hand with some 320g. It will get worked more with the 320, then get worked with 500 and finished off with 800g.

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The frame was prepared for paint today, hung in the booth, coated 2x with sealer and then got three coats of Imron. These pictures are of the 1st coat of Imron.

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I am very happy the paint is done on the frame. Long time coming on that! Tomorrow more better pictures of the finished frame.

BTW, I am really enjoying working in the body guys shop. He has just about every tool a man could need! What he doesn't have, I got. ;) I am also learning a ton of stuff from him, mostly paint and body stuff but that is really cool. I know jack all about this stuff so I feel privileged to learn from a master. Not to mention we get along great and can talk cars all day long.

:cheers:
 
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