Build 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"

[ToyotaMatt]

Did you put the floor drain plug under the fuel tank from inside the cab? Or from under the cab? Might be easier to remove int he future from under the cab.

It’s one of Matt’s @ToyotaMatt repop plugs, they can be put in place from under the cab.

The Gas Tank drain plug rubber Grommet i offer is a Re-Purposed OEM Toyota Part .....

also , i Needs to be installed from Under the body , NOT from the top this way it;s removable in the future for service , from the top , you will never be able to remove .....


Sweet Progress Paul !

looking sharp

 

[middlecalf]

Zoom zoom. It moves.


Almost time to jump some railroad tracks.

Actually in runs like crap past this. Maybe I ought to tune it and adjust the valves while hot, not just cold. But that’s so passé.

 

[FJ45VTOZ]

good on you..great felling that first drive! Love it

 

[middlecalf]

So, it runs like crap. Started down the make it run better trapline.

First, timing. When I put everything together, I seated the distributor pointed between #3 and #4 with the timing pointer on the ball and #1 cylinder on its compression cycle - per this.

Skookum, after working through fuel issues it starts pretty easy and revs to 2k easily (unloaded) and sounds pretty good for being 700 yrs. old. But loaded (that’s driving, engaging clutch, etc.) it pukes and cusses at me through the carbs. And, with my China Freight timing light, it says it’s around 30-deg advanced. What?

So I reset the timing to somewhere in the teens, and it won’t rev unloaded without cussing at me. Can’t even begin to load it, it just pukes and dies. So, reset to 30-ish degrees, and back to same as before.

I guess tomorrow I’ll pull the valve cover, get #1 to compression cycle and verify pointer is on the ball and dizzy is on #1 cylinder while pointing between #3 and #4. Good news is that I have some oil leaking out of the back passenger side of valve cover - that’s good news cuz that means I’m getting oil up to the valve train - so it can leak out the 700 year old valve cover.

And no second, today. Maybe tomorrow .

 

[whitey45]

Disconnect the carbs so you can rev independently, I bet one of them is not happy, if timing was way off, it wouldn’t start easily. Also confirm you are firing on all 6! These old tractors can run on 3 cylinders and still idle just fine!! Simply pull one plug wire at a time, there should be a noticeable drop in rpm.

 

[middlecalf]

Stupid is that stupid does. Me! I wasn’t looking at the timing mark, something else. When I figured that out and got the mark painted so I could see it better the timing was actually retarded, like me, by about 10 deg. So I’ve got it timed to the ball now and my timing light says 8-10 deg. Skookum. And I can mostly drive it now, at least into second gear. Still get some bitching above 2300-2400 rpms, but it’s intermittent. So that’s the good <better> news so far. Also, the thermostat housing temp measured between 175 and 180 deg with my China Freight IR meter. The dash temp was just above the middle line. Before, the temp was quite a bit higher, indicative of poor timing. Putting that item in the “success so far” column.

The <probably really> bad news is the exhaust smoking is really bad now (white/gray), and there’s black oil spurting from the exhaust pipe.

Tomorrow I’ll scrutinize the valves.

Then I’ll check the firing and carbs, thanks Brian @whitey45.

 

[cult45]

Stupid is that stupid does. Me! I wasn’t looking at the timing mark, something else. When I figured that out and got the mark painted so I could see it better the timing was actually retarded, like me, by about 10 deg. So I’ve got it timed to the ball now and my timing light says 8-10 deg. Skookum. And I can mostly drive it now, at least into second gear. Still get some bitching above 2300-2400 rpms, but it’s intermittent. So that’s the good <better> news so far. Also, the thermostat housing temp measured between 175 and 180 deg with my China Freight IR meter. The dash temp was just above the middle line. Before, the temp was quite a bit higher, indicative of poor timing. Putting that item in the “success so far” column.

The <probably really> bad news is the exhaust smoking is really bad now (white/gray), and there’s black oil spurting from the exhaust pipe.

Tomorrow I’ll scrutinize the valves.

Then I’ll check the firing and carbs, thanks Brian @whitey45.

I can't recall, was this engine tested before installation?

 

[middlecalf]

It was only spun, not started. I did have the valve cover off (cold checked valve settings) and the oil pan, visually there was no obvious issues.

 

[cult45]

It was only spun, not started. I did have the valve cover off (cold checked valve settings) and the oil pan, visually there was no obvious issues.

Damn. Be a shame to come all this way on the promise of that donk only to have it be a junker at this late stage. Hopefully it's not too much trouble and she can be tweaked back to 135 hache-pees.

 

[middlecalf]

Pulled the valve cover, cold checked the gaps, nothing obvious out of sorts. Lots of oil up there, so oil’s getting there . But after reading 10k threads on valve cover seals, it finally dawned on my puny brain to take a look at those. And all 12 “umbrella” seals* were parked at the top of each shaft! Don’t know if they were up there from the git go, but the really bad smoking didn’t start until I fumbled through the bad timing, so I’m wondering if that bad timing added some extra umph in pushing the seals out of place. I’ve pushed the seals back down, and tomorrow I’ll fire it up and see how the smoke signal generator is working. Here’s one of the seals in its correct space - wonder if it will stay there? We’ll see.

* oil shield per Toyota F-Engine Repair Manual

 

[tuckero23]

Pulled the valve cover, cold checked the gaps, nothing obvious out of sorts. Lots of oil up there, so oil’s getting there . But after reading 10k threads on valve cover seals, it finally dawned on my puny brain to take a look at those. And all 12 “umbrella” seals were parked at the top of each shaft! Don’t know if they were up there from the git go, but the really bad smoking didn’t start until I fumbled through the bad timing, so I’m wondering if that bad timing added some extra umph in pushing the seals out of place. I’ve pushed the seals back down, and tomorrow I’ll fire it up and see how the smoke signal generator is working. Here’s one of the seals in its correct space - wonder if it will stay there? We’ll see.
View attachment 2409825

good luck

 

[middlecalf]

No they don’t stay, they ride up and down the shaft. Puzzled as to their functionality.

Rig fired right up, no accelerator even needed, been sitting for several days. But only ran for a handful of seconds, then died from flooding. Fuel was pouring out one of the carbs. So off it came, and fuel float was full of fuel . I replaced one when I rebuilt both carbs, as it was crushed. So I don’t know if this was the replacement one or the original one, lol. Two new coming from Mike’s carb parts.

Then maybe I’ll make progress. No smoke out exhaust for this brief startup, but engine was cold. Wonder if oil gets pooled up around those valve sleeve bases (or whatever they’re called) and migrated into the open valves. Not sure how that banging up and down umbrella seal* works. I guess I need the magic password


* oil shield per Toyota F-Engine Repair Manual

 

[middlecalf]

Picture of valve

I’m looking for anyone who has a picture of one of their valves (esp. the domed oil shield) that resembles this image in my Sept ‘66 Toyota F-Engine Repair Manual. I haven’t seen one anywhere, so curious if these actually exist.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[middlecalf]

These aren’t too bad (Orange writing is latest). Forgot to open throttle.

With valves closed I hear air (@ 30psi) into the oil pan on all 6 cylinders but not out carbs or exhaust, so good?

Looks like maybe a head/gasket issue? No coolant in oil, but a drop in coolant volume. IR temp of pump and thermostat housing between 175 and 180 deg., so not overheating. Good oil to rockers and valves.

 

[middlecalf]

Engine rebuild? Maybe start with the head first?

 

[whitey45]

Air past the rings = blowby, I would drive it like you stole it, clear it out!

 

[middlecalf]

Air past the rings = blowby, I would drive it like you stole it, clear it out!

So is that a ring seating thing? Is that what all that smoke is from and not coolant? Will it become obvious when it improves (duh, like no or little smoke?)? This is new to me, never dealt with this before. Thanks for the help.

 

[whitey45]

If it has a blue tint it’s oil burning, white is coolant and black is too rich. I have to say the dual carbs are cool, but much harder to tune and generally too much fuel. Disconnect one and see how it runs on one carb, and vice versus, run each on there own. You would be better off with a stock setup. If the engine hasn’t been run in a long time, just take it out on a good long drive, 30 miles, come back let it idle and check your tailpipe!

 

[middlecalf]

So just disconnect the throttle linkage on one, leave that carb mounted though?

 

[wngrog]

Yeah and disconnect the fuel source to it as well.