I’m looking for anyone who has a picture of one of their valves (esp. the domed oil shield) that resembles this image in my Sept ‘66 Toyota F-Engine Repair Manual. I haven’t seen one anywhere, so curious if these actually exist.
Picture of valve
- Thread starter middlecalf
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CHU TOY
SILVER Star
Here you go
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- #3
Ding ding ding! Awesome @Citrus Cruiser ! 51224 so that’s a Dec 1965 1F head, correct? Is that it’s original condition, and if not, did you hunt down those oil shields?
CHU TOY
SILVER Star
Yes the cylinder head is original from a 1967 FJ-40. The build date on the cruiser is from January 1966.
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Wonder if those shields are available and if those retainers and locks are unique for them? Here’s my ‘64 motor that was apparently moded to have inside-the-spring umbrella seals added (and internal spring deleted but don’t know if the remaining springs were upgraded to account for the change in spring dynamics). I’m assuming those are the original retainers and locks (?). My thought on those inside-the-spring seals is oil is still able to get into the spring base and into the cylinders. The outside-the-spring shields make more sense in the overall design.
on edit - I don’t think these were modified per info below
on edit - I don’t think these were modified per info below
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- #7
@Citrus Cruiser so far yours is the only picture of the early valve train with the oil shields in tact! Not even catalogs (e.g. SOR) show them. And even though there’s been some success from folks swapping out the o-ring rubber seal with the umbrella rubber seal of later F engines (and 2Fs I think), those shields look to be essential in keeping the oil out of the valves. (To use the umbrella seals the inner spring needs to go away, so there’s a long term spring issue that might become a factor). Those rubber seals wipe the valve shafts, but there’s still oil pooling potential at the base of the valve seat. I guess the community has accepted the increased oil burn and bit of smoking from not having those oil shields in place. I can’t imagine that toyota was behind this but maybe there’s some service bulletin somewhere out there that talks this.
Looks like I’m in this boat, as I doubt there’s any of those shields floating around. I hope I can get the smoking down to something like the occasional puff.
Looks like I’m in this boat, as I doubt there’s any of those shields floating around. I hope I can get the smoking down to something like the occasional puff.
CHU TOY
SILVER Star
If I recall correctly, the inner spring is there to prevent valve float. When I sent the cylinder head to the machine shop, the shop said that there are no valve stem seals but instead uses o-rings as a seal.@Citrus Cruiser so far yours is the only picture of the early valve train with the oil shields in tact! Not even catalogs (e.g. SOR) show them. And even though there’s been some success from folks swapping out the o-ring rubber seal with the umbrella rubber seal of later F engines (and 2Fs I think), those shields look to be essential in keeping the oil out of the valves. (To use the umbrella seals the inner spring needs to go away, so there’s a long term spring issue that might become a factor). Those rubber seals wipe the valve shafts, but there’s still oil pooling potential at the base of the valve seat. I guess the community has accepted the increased oil burn and bit of smoking from not having those oil shields in place. I can’t imagine that toyota was behind this but maybe there’s some service bulletin somewhere out there that talks this.
Looks like I’m in this boat, as I doubt there’s any of those shields floating around. I hope I can get the smoking down to something like the occasional puff.
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- #9
Thanks @Citrus Cruiser that‘s what I thought.
@Cruiser_Nerd posted this in the cross-post to this thread in the 25 owners section. It’s from an FJ25 manual, so that’s early F motors.
Your motor is‘67 or so, so that’s a bit later, but still early. Now I’m wondering if the early F motors were single springed, with umbrella type seals, and sometime after ‘64 (which is my motor, pics above of single springed valve with umbrella seal) but before Sept. ‘66 (date of my F engine repair manual) toyota switched to dual springs and o-ring gasket in the groove above the spring cap, no other seal, as shown in your pic above. But still called it an F motor.
@Cruiser_Nerd posted this in the cross-post to this thread in the 25 owners section. It’s from an FJ25 manual, so that’s early F motors.
Your motor is‘67 or so, so that’s a bit later, but still early. Now I’m wondering if the early F motors were single springed, with umbrella type seals, and sometime after ‘64 (which is my motor, pics above of single springed valve with umbrella seal) but before Sept. ‘66 (date of my F engine repair manual) toyota switched to dual springs and o-ring gasket in the groove above the spring cap, no other seal, as shown in your pic above. But still called it an F motor.
This is a little bit of an old addition to this thread but I am having issues trying to replace valve seals on an original 67 f 135. Figure 2. 20 above is the first I have seen that matches mine. Maybe there are no "seals". I cant image that the o ring on the top blocks all the oil from the valves since any on the shaft is below the o ring (coming in through the springs. Here are photos of my 67 with no changes, the new seals are what I was told were a replacement but I dont see it. Still not sure what to do, I may just put it all back together and deal with it.
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- #11
@Dadsfj40 so you don’t think those brown/copper seals will keep and/or wipe the valve shaft clear of oil? The original gray shields deflect most of the oil away from the valve shaft and springs, while those brown replacement seals deflect any oil that gets past the shields, and the rubber & spring part wipes any that gets past that - with some passing by for oiling the valve shaft through the keepers. I think 
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.They are a nice tight fit on the valve stem, but dont slide down that "metal guide shaft" and the bottom flange of the copper seal is the same diameter as the OD of the small spring so I dont think I could get the spring on unless I ground the flange off the copper seal or shortened the spring. And wouldnt that copper seal just slide up and down with the valve stem? It seems that the umbrellas I've seen slide over the guide, I almost wonder if these sticking up above the guide would limit the valve travel, but I have not checked. I'm open to suggestions and appreciate the input.