1963 fj-40 tuning issues.

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I just bought a 1963 fj-40 off of Facebook marketplace. It was not running when I got it and had a new carb on it with no brand. I got the car running and idling well and the timing set to 7 btdc. Whenever I give it gas or when it’s under load it starts sharply popping out of the exhaust. I thought maybe the mechanical advance wasn’t working but after taking the distributor apart I can’t really tell. It does move but doesn’t really spring back like other distributors I’ve seen. I don’t know if I’m on the right track with timing or not.
 
So how old is the gas and filter. Sounds like mixture, accelerator pump or other carb/fuel issue. What is the vacuum reading at idle and is it steady. Is the fuel pump good? Sniff test the dipstick for gas smell.

Do a dry/wet compression test. Look at the spark plugs and wires. Check for corrosion on the cap inside contacts.

maybe some free download manuals

Coolerman's wiring diagrams and parts
 
So how old is the gas and filter. Sounds like mixture, accelerator pump or other carb/fuel issue. What is the vacuum reading at idle and is it steady. Is the fuel pump good? Sniff test the dipstick for gas smell.

Do a dry/wet compression test. Look at the spark plugs and wires. Check for corrosion on the cap inside contacts.

maybe some free download manuals

Coolerman's wiring diagrams and parts
I drained all the old gas out and was running fresh 91. It was around 14 on the vacuum gauge. The points, cap, condenser, wires, and plugs all appear to have been recently replaced along with the fuel pump.
 
Align timing marks/motor/flywheel to TDC. Remove dizzy ensure rotor is pointing in right direction (#4 spark plug) taking in account it will rotate as it drops in. And make sure it's fully seated in the oil pump (rotate oil pump with a screw driver in the dizzy hole if need be). It doesn't line up with #4, remove, rotate "index" one tooth-rinse and repeat.
 
If your timing is set correctly, then you are likely fine. Its easy to be off a tooth when stabbing in the dizzy. Put #1 on top dead center of compression. Take the dizzy cap off and look at where the rotor is pointing - it should be pointing right spark plug #4. There is a pic in the manual.

Just because they are new parts doesn't mean they are good. With it warmed up and idling good shut it off. Unhook the fuel line at the carb and put in a coffee can, reach in an start it - watch the fuel flow , it should pulse nicely. If it has large gaps then maybe the fuel pump has a pin hole in the diaphragm or the fuel supply hose (loose fitting), a clog in the the tank outlet or the filter. If the paper element is wet with water its hard to get fuel threw. A bottle of fuel drier every so often will help. I take off the filter and leave it in the sun for a few days to dry out. Put on your spare filter in the mean time. When it acts up again, swap them.

You might try watching some pinhead vids for tuning the carb. Have you done a compression check both dry and wet?
 
Sometimes, some engines seem to prefer a little more timing advance than the 7*. I'll use a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold to help determine how much it likes.
 
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This is the new carb that was on when I bought it it also came with a Holley carb that looked nearly identical that was on it previously. I am going to set the timing more advanced tomorrow. Does anyone know anything about the small dial that sits on the shaft of the distributor?
 
The carb is a Chinese knockoff … they have been known to have shavings in passages and hence not work well … and who knows what idle jets are in it compared to what it had on previously

If you were to try and use that carb I would open it up… clean it out (make sure clean) and compare what’s in it (jets) and switch them out with previous carb if they are same … or use this carb and rebuild what was on previously

Plus as pighead said it could just need a higher timing set… especially with that carb …. Most webers like a higher timing set (mine is set at about 12^ right now )
 
You do know that the engine has solid lifters, not hydraulic, right? You should assume that they need to be adjusted. And if you want to embarrass yourself without doing so online, check the vacuum before AND AFTER the adjustment. The difference can be startling!
 
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