100 Series VVTi Fuel Pump (‘06-‘07)

[bentambling]

I'm a LandCruiser owner living in the People's Republic of California, and there is a low-level war on in the Strait of Hormuz. (Translation: I barely drive my LC100, 87AKI gasoline is *still* over $5.50/gal here). I have not been able to go anywhere hot, so I don't really know if my fix is complete.

Prior to the fix I went from 2019 to 2024 without a single instance due to never driving in over 104ºF conditions. I take some comfort in @2001LC assessment above^. As soon as I drive my truck in over 104º (40ºC) conditions I will post the result here.

P.S. I have personally seen the price for No.2 Diesel go to $7.999/gal and stay there for weeks. It is not an exaggeration, as our governor GavHands claims. This is at the gas station near my storage unit just off I-880, so it is not some out-of-the-way "special" station. I look forward to driving my LandCruiser again. Perhaps, if we are fortunate, we will get regime change *here*.

My vapor locks only happens when im in low gwar climbing up the mt. Im looking at the insane diesel oil cooler, im wondering if that will help, maybe add fuel cooler too?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

During summer/warmer seasons, fuel suppliers increase their ethanol percentage which is a contributing factor of a couple things:
- higher fuel temps.
- same volume in the tank but engines needing more volume to complete a combustion cycle.

Back in mid 2000s when production was still ongoing, USA’s fuel ethanol rating was consistently low that the design of the fuel pumps and charcoal canisters were architected from that fuel spec. It’s not a 100% a component (fuel pump) and/fuel delivery system engineering mistake, majority of the culprit lies in today’s fuel composition (reactor temps, RON, RVP, etc) and understanding basic chemistry.

The state of California unleaded and premium gas supply is imported from only 3 refineries in the world (Singapore, S. Korea and India) with a specific boutique formula hence the price/gallon is higher -emission related.

 

[usinglinux]

My vapor locks only happens when im in low gwar climbing up the mt. Im looking at the insane diesel oil cooler, im wondering if that will help, maybe add fuel cooler too?

Do they occur after you have been running the car for a while in high temperatures? Happened to me too rock crawling in Moab. I narrowed it down to the Charcoal Canister being oversaturated. Symptoms include stale gas smell toward rear of car and sound of boiling and vapors emitting from fill neck with gas cap off. Still waiting on parts so I cannot confirm it worked for me, but this thread is filled with similar experiences -
Dies When Hot - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dies-when-hot.1341537/

 

[2001LC]

Detail of symptoms is are best clues.

• 06-07 bad/defective fuel pump. Stall after RPM lowered, from being above ~3K for extended period. Must noted during hot weather.
• 03-07 saturated/flooded charcoal canister CC. One ore more symptoms may be present. Rough idle, even loss of power while driving. Fuel smells around rear end, and may have rancid fuel smell. Fuel vapors, from fuel cap area. Fuel cap area dirty/mucky. Can lead to a stall, but usually other contributing factors involved if stall. Such as, in need of a good tune-up & coolant system service. 98-02 the same, except less frequently found, since CC up in engine bay.
• 05-06 Hot Soak. Defective cam sensor. Crank no start after warm up, usually on hot sunny day. Let cool and starts up. Hot soak, TBS for 05-06.

 

[usinglinux]

Detail of symptoms is are best clues.

• 06-07 bad/defective fuel pump. Stall after RPM lowered, from being above ~3K for extended period. Must noted during hot weather.
• 03-07 saturated/flooded charcoal canister CC. One ore more symptoms may be present. Rough idle, even loss of power while driving. Fuel smells around rear end, and may have rancid fuel smell. Fuel vapors, from fuel cap area. Fuel cap area dirty/mucky. Can lead to a stall, but usually other contributing factors involved if stall. Such as, in need of a good tune-up & coolant system service. 98-02 the same, except less frequently found, since CC up in engine bay.
• 05-06 Hot Soak. Defective cam sensor. Crank no start after warm up, usually on hot sunny day. Let cool and starts up. Hot soak, TBS for 05-06.

Had my coolant changed in last ~7k miles and plan on cleaning radiator when I install new fuel pump and CC. Could you give bullet points on what you mean by a good tune up and coolant system service?

 

[vipergrhd]

I'm a LandCruiser owner living in the People's Republic of California, and there is a low-level war on in the Strait of Hormuz. (Translation: I barely drive my LC100, 87AKI gasoline is *still* over $5.50/gal here). I have not been able to go anywhere hot, so I don't really know if my fix is complete.

Prior to the fix I went from 2019 to 2024 without a single instance due to never driving in over 104ºF conditions. I take some comfort in @2001LC assessment above^. As soon as I drive my truck in over 104º (40ºC) conditions I will post the result here.

P.S. I have personally seen the price for No.2 Diesel go to $7.999/gal and stay there for weeks. It is not an exaggeration, as our governor GavHands claims. This is at the gas station near my storage unit just off I-880, so it is not some out-of-the-way "special" station. I look forward to driving my LandCruiser again. Perhaps, if we are fortunate, we will get regime change *here*.

It will be hot this week in DV. 10-Day Weather Forecast for Death Valley, Death Valley, California - The Weather Channel | weather.com - https://weather.com/weather/tenday/l/84af249c500745348a2ac1ac3164c799a59ee7bb46108fd55727a3ef4fa7d30a

 

[2001LC]

Had my coolant changed in last ~7k miles and plan on cleaning radiator when I install new fuel pump and CC. Could you give bullet points on what you mean by a good tune up and coolant system service?

• Spark plugs (purchase from distributor or Toyota/Lexus)
• Coil boots & seals.
• Re-torque head cover bolt
• PCV valve and hoses as needed
• Vacuum hose
• as needed
• Air filter
• MAF CLN or replace.
• Battery post & clamp CLN
• Engine oil flush, 2 cans BG EPR
• Oil & filter plus 2x BG MOA Don't over fill.
• Check for loose wire connectios, nuts & bolts.
• Check EVAP VSV.
• Check fuel pressure.

• Wash radaitor fins
• R&R fan belt and any pulleys as needed.
• Drain both block peacocks and radiator.
• R&R heater Tees (blow out heater cores)
• R&R thermostat OEM jiggle valve up
• R&R rad cap OEM
• Fill coolant system with toyota coolant year spec
• Check for air in coolant system each morning, before sun-up. Top a nd repeat until no air/coolant to top. After 8 hour engine cool down. Best front end higher then rear. Make radiator cap the high point

 

[jerryb]

It's not a vapor lock issue. It is weak fuel pressure/flow from fuel pump. Due to increased resistance (heat). The condition always reveals itself in the same way. Which replacing the factory fuel pump, always corrects.

Symptom of bad fuel pump, in 06-07 100 series:
After running engine in higher RPM. Like when ascending a pass or passing on the HWY. Almost but not always, on a hot day. As we let off the gas pedal, engine RPMs drop. At that moment, as ECM switch fuel pump to low speed. Via, pass current through fuel pump resistor. Which resistor, reduces volts/AMPs to fuel pump, to slow it's speed. Fuel pump fails to deliver adequate fuel pressure/flow.

you know what bothers me Paul, when you don't take into account fuel make up, specifically 2026 fuel make up compared to 2000 or 1995.
That you pair fuel pressure with flow rate. Stating that all vapor lock is due to flow rate/pressure, when it is not.
Do you have a block temp chart relative to return to tank fuel volume? The pressure is zero on return unless the fuel tank is pressed also.
Can you chart initial boiling point of current e10 make up, state dependent, vendor dependent, ambient dependent?
What happens if we load up with e15, is the 100 going to do fine with a radiator wash and a new fuel pump?

This implication is a cheap shot maybe, but you imply that e10 is fine, and same-same all years, and the 100s can handle it.
So when people fuel up with e15, what the answer going be then?

Do whatever it takes to keep rail, line, and tank temps below 165F, maintain rail pressure at 38 hot ambient and you'll be fine. Flow rate doesn't matter, The resistor is an inhibitor. (I'd write 38psig hot 42 psig cold but that's redundant) Brosche or Hitachi will tell you when the light come on. Then and only then will you realize, and be outside of the mechanical limits of correction to maintain Stoichiometric.

Saying flow rate doesn't matter is provided you don't get above or below a 25% threshold to trigger an hi/lo CEL.

 

[bentambling]

Do they occur after you have been running the car for a while in high temperatures? Happened to me too rock crawling in Moab. I narrowed it down to the Charcoal Canister being oversaturated. Symptoms include stale gas smell toward rear of car and sound of boiling and vapors emitting from fill neck with gas cap off. Still waiting on parts so I cannot confirm it worked for me, but this thread is filled with similar experiences -
Dies When Hot - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dies-when

Do they occur after you have been running the car for a while in high temperatures? Happened to me too rock crawling in Moab. I narrowed it down to the Charcoal Canister being oversaturated. Symptoms include stale gas smell toward rear of car and sound of boiling and vapors emitting from fill neck with gas cap off. Still waiting on parts so I cannot confirm it worked for me, but this thread is filled with similar experiences -
Dies When Hot - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dies-when-hot.1341537/

never had an issue when driving on the highway even on the summer. But once i go up the mountain and use low gear thats when it triggers the vapor lock. Happened in tuquorville falls last week of this may. It was even that hot then.