100 Series LX470 8HP swap

[Papa Wickey]

On the wiring front I did see something like this after comparing the ebay listings for 2001 Lexus IS300 ECUs vs my 2000 LX ECU and this should work as a plugin to tap into

Would just need to confirm pinout for I/O and then run the lamik in parallel but it's cheaper than the boomslang offering at like $200 bucks vs almost $600 for the boomslang extension

 

[Papa Wickey]

Small update, got the PDI transfer torsen ordered and now have a DHL tracking number so with any luck I may be able to get the transfer case refreshed before I have to leave on a work trip again. Also trying to see about figuring out the manifold flange issue. Thinking maybe Vband could work to give clearance around the plate but shooting to have the mechanical side ready before October

 

[Papa Wickey]

Will have to dig into how this gives me a torsen center diff but, part arrived from Australia. Total cost was $674 shipped with another $74 to DHL for import fees, just in time for me to go back out on a work trip next week . I’ll probably take the halves of this apart before but won’t get to rebuild the case and put ZF+HF2A together until I get back most likely.

 

[Papa Wickey]

Slight update, can’t take it apart but I can spin it. Looks like a torsen LSD from me peering in the holes while moving it via the inner splines

 

[obe12]

Oh how sweet it is !

 

[Papa Wickey]

New video up on youtube. I haven't put any videos up in 5 months...

 

[AndrewCo]

Got mine in last weekend, can confirm it's a big improvement over the unresponsive slushbox 4 speed. Cruising around with shift cuts and blips from the 2uz is also a laugh. I ended up going the same domiworks hf2av adapter kit and pressing an 80 series gear onto the input shaft + adding the extra snap ring.

 

[ChroniclerCruiser]

Got mine in last weekend, can confirm it's a big improvement over the unresponsive slushbox 4 speed. Cruising around with shift cuts and blips from the 2uz is also a laugh. I ended up going the same domiworks hf2av adapter kit and pressing an 80 series gear onto the input shaft + adding the extra snap ring.

Oh sweet! I have a few questions for you:

1. What TCU did you end up going with? Is it piggybacking off of OEM ECU or is your LC ECU swapped as well?
2. What model of 8HP did you go with and out of what vehicle was it pulled?
3. Did the adapter & transmission housing combination you used give you any issues with limiting access to the starter bolts?
4. How did you set up the shifter on the center console?
5. I know it's only been a week, but have you seen any improvements on MPG? Or have any issues popped up?

 

[AndrewCo]

Oh sweet! I have a few questions for you:

1. What TCU did you end up going with? Is it piggybacking off of OEM ECU or is your LC ECU swapped as well?
2. What model of 8HP did you go with and out of what vehicle was it pulled?
3. Did the adapter & transmission housing combination you used give you any issues with limiting access to the starter bolts?
4. How did you set up the shifter on the center console?
5. I know it's only been a week, but have you seen any improvements on MPG? Or have any issues popped up?

Sure:
1. Cantcu + Link G4X XtremeX - I made a plug and play harness by de-soldering the ECU connector off the Toyota board and added a MAP sensor, still kept the factory MAF but only for intake air temps. The factory DBW throttle works well also - even the cable one is still DBW, the cable just pulls a position sensor and doesn't actually move the throttle in normal operation.
2. 8HP75Z from a xDRIVE30d N57- BMW small bellhousing.
3. I didn't notice any issues with the small bellhousing/adapter plate covering them anymore than the factory box would but I can have another look on the weekend and let you know 100%.
4. I made a 3D printed base out of PETG (RHD only) that picks up the factory mounting holes and an A90 Supra canbus shifter. Planning to use a leather boot to cover the gap but haven't test fitted that yet.
5. No numbers yet - I'm still working on the engine map whenever I have a free moment but it will definitely be better as it actually has a wideband O2 sensor now/can actually target lambda 1 on cruise. Mine had no O2 sensors at all from factory and the factory tune is fairly rich everywhere, cruise rpm is also a few hundred lower in 8th which should help.
I still need to finish making a bracket to mount the high/low range shifter to as that mounted to the box previously, I made something close last weekend but need to tweak it a bit still to get the shifter angle right.

 

[Papa Wickey]

Got mine in last weekend, can confirm it's a big improvement over the unresponsive slushbox 4 speed. Cruising around with shift cuts and blips from the 2uz is also a laugh. I ended up going the same domiworks hf2av adapter kit and pressing an 80 series gear onto the input shaft + adding the extra snap ring.

I wasn't sure if that would have any issues with the allegedly different idler

 

[Papa Wickey]

Sure:
1. Cantcu + Link G4X XtremeX - I made a plug and play harness by de-soldering the ECU connector off the Toyota board and added a MAP sensor, still kept the factory MAF but only for intake air temps. The factory DBW throttle works well also - even the cable one is still DBW, the cable just pulls a position sensor and doesn't actually move the throttle in normal operation.
2. 8HP75Z from a xDRIVE30d N57- BMW small bellhousing.
3. I didn't notice any issues with the small bellhousing/adapter plate covering them anymore than the factory box would but I can have another look on the weekend and let you know 100%.
4. I made a 3D printed base out of PETG (RHD only) that picks up the factory mounting holes and an A90 Supra canbus shifter. Planning to use a leather boot to cover the gap but haven't test fitted that yet.
5. No numbers yet - I'm still working on the engine map whenever I have a free moment but it will definitely be better as it actually has a wideband O2 sensor now/can actually target lambda 1 on cruise. Mine had no O2 sensors at all from factory and the factory tune is fairly rich everywhere, cruise rpm is also a few hundred lower in 8th which should help.
I still need to finish making a bracket to mount the high/low range shifter to as that mounted to the box previously, I made something close last weekend but need to tweak it a bit still to get the shifter angle right.

Good to know you can run CANTCU with a standalone though it makes sense once you have CAN hi/lo it shouldn't pose any issues. the N57 shouldn't have starter bolt issues based on the smaller packaging. RHD or LHD HDJ/UZJ? I should be able to scan my center console soon to design the shifter mount for my a90 shifter but still waiting on my recent order from serra toyota, was considering ASA but I have PETG as well.

Gearing & tire size?

 

[Papa Wickey]

More parts update

Ordered and received some of the rhino long tube LHD headers. Based off of @frawstme I picked up new engine and trans mounts as well as the A90 supra shifter and some FIPG for the transfer case but still waiting on serra toyota to ship. Ended up paying $243 for the engine mounts and new hardware, $70 for new trans mount, shifter at $130, and another $20 for FIPG.

Figured I would do the long tubes after @TrailBornRunner identified the issue with the driver side 3 bolt flange that wrapped around the head contacted on the N63 adapter and my headers are already ticking.

 

[TrailBornRunner]

More parts update
View attachment 4216974View attachment 4216975

Ordered and received some of the rhino long tube LHD headers. Based off of @frawstme I picked up new engine and trans mounts as well as the A90 supra shifter and some FIPG for the transfer case but still waiting on serra toyota to ship. Ended up paying $243 for the engine mounts and new hardware, $70 for new trans mount, shifter at $130, and another $20 for FIPG.

Figured I would do the long tubes after @TrailBornRunner identified the issue with the driver side 3 bolt flange that wrapped around the head contacted on the N63 adapter and my headers are already ticking.

Dang those are nice, I ended up buying some tundra headers and modified them to fit and bring the flanges away from the bellhousing. I also built a whole new exhaust system because the tcase is clocked a little and hit the passenger side off the cats. I "finished" mine a couple weeks ago but it currently only goes into drive and gets stuck in drive. It does move under its own power, but I'm not tech savvy enough for the maxxecu apparently, and there's not a whole lot of info on setting it up. Seems like I'm having a canbus error between the trans and the maxxecu, trying to find someone that could help.

 

[Papa Wickey]

Dang those are nice, I ended up buying some tundra headers and modified them to fit and bring the flanges away from the bellhousing. I also built a whole new exhaust system because the tcase is clocked a little and hit the passenger side off the cats. I "finished" mine a couple weeks ago but it currently only goes into drive and gets stuck in drive. It does move under its own power, but I'm not tech savvy enough for the maxxecu apparently, and there's not a whole lot of info on setting it up. Seems like I'm having a canbus error between the trans and the maxxecu, trying to find someone that could help.

What kind of harness did you use for the Maxx? I would try the ZF swap group on fb personally since there seem to be a lot of folks using that in there

 

[TrailBornRunner]

What kind of harness did you use for the Maxx? I would try the ZF swap group on fb personally since there seem to be a lot of folks using that in there

I got the one from Seems Legit Garage, I asked on the maxxecu group and got some replies and ideas. Currently on a 3 week overland trip and once I get back I'll try those suggestions, but if it doesn't work, I'll ask on the bigger 8hp groups

 

[AndrewCo]

Good to know you can run CANTCU with a standalone though it makes sense once you have CAN hi/lo it shouldn't pose any issues. the N57 shouldn't have starter bolt issues based on the smaller packaging. RHD or LHD HDJ/UZJ? I should be able to scan my center console soon to design the shifter mount for my a90 shifter but still waiting on my recent order from serra toyota, was considering ASA but I have PETG as well.

Gearing & tire size?

Mines a 2000 RHD UZJ100, stock diff gearing which I believe is 4.3 on stock tyres (31's?) The car came with some brand new half decent AT's so seemed like a waste to not use them - it will be getting some 33's when these wear out though.
I just put a new aftermarket 80 series gear on the domiworks shaft = bearings and required snap rings and put it in the 100 series tcase. The 100 series single piece gear+shaft did look slightly thicker overall so likely the 80 series idler might be thinner to match but they seem to mesh ok - that said it's only 80'100k's in of test driving/tuning so I'll see how it goes over the next 1000km or so, I couldn't really find any info about it and am no gear meshing expert.

 

[Papa Wickey]

Mines a 2000 RHD UZJ100, stock diff gearing which I believe is 4.3 on stock tyres (31's?) The car came with some brand new half decent AT's so seemed like a waste to not use them - it will be getting some 33's when these wear out though.
I just put a new aftermarket 80 series gear on the domiworks shaft = bearings and required snap rings and put it in the 100 series tcase. The 100 series single piece gear+shaft did look slightly thicker overall so likely the 80 series idler might be thinner to match but they seem to mesh ok - that said it's only 80'100k's in of test driving/tuning so I'll see how it goes over the next 1000km or so, I couldn't really find any info about it and am no gear meshing expert.

I had heard they changed the gear meshing between the 80 and 100 which is why I just went with the 80 case but I was able to pick one up for not a ton of money though I ended up “buying it twice” since the rebuild kit with bearings and seals was the same price. The one 100 series adapter I have seen was like 1900 usd converted from euro so that seemed like the simpler option. The CDL actuators are shared between the 2 generations so only real difference is the plug for the actuator

 

[Papa Wickey]

Dang those are nice, I ended up buying some tundra headers and modified them to fit and bring the flanges away from the bellhousing. I also built a whole new exhaust system because the tcase is clocked a little and hit the passenger side off the cats. I "finished" mine a couple weeks ago but it currently only goes into drive and gets stuck in drive. It does move under its own power, but I'm not tech savvy enough for the maxxecu apparently, and there's not a whole lot of info on setting it up. Seems like I'm having a canbus error between the trans and the maxxecu, trying to find someone that could help.

Were you right about the driveshafts? Granted you got the solid axle up front but any issues with the rear spline engagement?

 

[TrailBornRunner]

Were you right about the driveshafts? Granted you got the solid axle up front but any issues with the rear spline engagement?

The transfer case definitely moved back about 2 inches, and I already moved my motor back an inch or so. So I ended up moving the rear axle 2 inches to compensate, well that and the 42s didn't clear the rear doors. There may be a slim chance you might not have problems, I might say think about getting adjustable rear control arms where you can move the rear axle a half inch to an inch back.