100 Series General Tech and Classifieds

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Guys have a time sensitive question.

Changed brake pads last weekend. Early this week started to hear a squeal in the rear when driving. It's rotational, sounds like squealing brakes. When I apply the brakes, it goes away. It does not do it until the brakes warm up...mile or two of driving.

Checked everything yesterday, no luck. Replaced the brake pad retention clips, no luck. Mechanic that did the alignment today cannot find the issue.

I'm thinking all I know to do know is take 160 sandpaper and file down the rotors some.

Any other suggestions? Really don't want to worry about this in CO, so I'm open to try anything...

Double check and make sure the clips on the caliper bracket are not on the rotor. Not the spring thing that goes on one side of the pads but the actual clips on the bracket 4 per side. They can be installed wrong and the aftermarket ones can be slightly thicker and may require some modification. The flat ear goes towards the rotor.
 
@offr0adlim0 ...question.

When I was in the super duper heat in my 100 series, the engine was putting off a sweet gas smell. It only happened when it was really hot. The temp gauge never wavered but I smelled that.

Also, when I parked it once I head fluids boiling. No temp spikes. No warning lights but something was boiling.

I started just leaving it running to keep the fan going and the fluids flowing.

More than likely its excessive fuel vapor in the EVAP system due to high heat. System can't keep up so vapor finds a way out. Boiling fluid noise was probably coolant being forced into the over flow tank. My 80 does that after a hard trip in the heat.
 
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Double check and make sure the clips on the caliper bracket are not on the rotor. Not the spring thing that goes on one side of the pads but the actual clips on the bracket 4 per side. They can be installed wrong and the aftermarket ones can be slightly thicker and may require some modification. The flat ear goes towards the rotor.

Thx Rob. I was missing one of hose so I actually replaced all of them early this morning with Toyota oem parts thinking that had to be the problem (parts 47716-22060 and 47717-22050 in case anyone else needs them). But didn't make much, if any, difference. I'm gonna take it on a 100 mile road trip tomorrow with some strategic long slow braking periods see if that helps. If not gonna break out the sandpaper.
 
If you didn't squirt some $1 anti squeal on the pads, that's likely your problem
 
@offr0adlim0 ...question.

When I was in the super duper heat in my 100 series, the engine was putting off a sweet gas smell. It only happened when it was really hot. The temp gauge never wavered but I smelled that.

Also, when I parked it once I head fluids boiling. No temp spikes. No warning lights but something was boiling.

I started just leaving it running to keep the fan going and the fluids flowing.

Re the temp gauge - from what I've read, most modern temp gauges (starting with the 80 series for cruisers) have a buffered temp gauge. Meaning the needle stays glued to the middle of the gauge regardless of the temp until it gets super hot and headed toward the danger zone.
 
Torque app and scan guage send digital coolant and tranny temp from OBD2 plug. Best piece of mind around.

Dummy gauge is always too late
 
No way I wanted to know that in 120 degree weather. It would have been scary.

A/C was still cooling. When that goes south I start worrying.

I found back in my rock crawling/always overheating days it was best to rest the truck with it running to keep everything flowing past the fan
 
Can I talk one of you 100 Series RGANs into giving me the dimensions of the airbox & intake hose diameter?
 
Can I talk one of you 100 Series RGANs into giving me the dimensions of the airbox & intake hose diameter?
Intake to air box or manifold?

Or both?
 
Can I talk one of you 100 Series RGANs into giving me the dimensions of the airbox & intake hose diameter?

They are too small to fit the throttle body and MAF sensor on a Chevy engine, if that's what you are trying to do.
 
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I figured I could use a reducer. A lot of folks run the 80 series canisters, but I was looking for something a little more compact.

Intake to air box or manifold?

Or both?

The diameter leaving the box to the manifold.
 
I figured I could use a reducer. A lot of folks run the 80 series canisters, but I was looking for something a little more compact.



The diameter leaving the box to the manifold.

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Torque app and scan guage send digital coolant and tranny temp from OBD2 plug. Best piece of mind around.

Dummy gauge is always too late

Using this app myself. It has led me to do the blue clutch fan mod that has worked great. You can also set it up to upload to the website where you can see a graph of selected readings. Pretty cool.
 
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