100 Series General Tech and Classifieds

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FAN CLUTCH on Bessie (80) did this.
 
Replaced the fan clutch on Lou's and made no difference even though you could hold the fan with the engine running at idle. I found His radiator and condenser were blocked with brush causing less air flow across the radiator/condenser. I've also noticed that up until 2002 the 100 series had an electric condenser cooling fan. I'm thinking if the earlier condenser fan can be added to the later models it will make a huge difference. Will post up my results when I figure out a solution.
 
Anything I can check or look at to ensure proper operation? Zero experience here...
Make sure radiator fins are clean and the air filters are clean.
 
Very cool post... thought I would share.

Rob- you just finished a rebuild. thoughts?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/just-a-few-notes-on-the-4-7-engine-im-impressed.865465/

I completely agree. The only killer of a 2uz is running it hot. I torn down 2 one with 219k and one with 208k and they still had the cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. Only thing odd I saw was on the 219k that had blown heads, was mixing its water with oil, was bad cylinder wall scuffing on #4 and #6. The 208k cylinder walls looked great. The heads on the other hand are a different story. When they are run hot they warp bad. In fact the MLS head gasket never actually fails the heads just warp to the point that they no longer seal. The best out of the 4 heads was 16 thousandths off and the worst was 28 thousandths off. Here is where the issue arises, due to its overhead cam design if the head warps the cam in no longer sitting true in the journals. This causes the cam to rock. A good machine shop can fix a badly warped head by heating it up and bolting it to a 4" steel plate and letting it cool. Then line boring the cam journals and decking the head. This kind of repair is expensive $900+. Toyota does not give any specs for head flatness and considers them to be non serviceable. I went with a new set of heads. All in all I did not spend as much as I thought I would. After seeing the condition of the 208k short block I left it alone. I did however install a new Aisin oil pump.

Lou's is A/C not cooling at idle not truck temps, right?

Correct. AC is hot at idle not truck.
 
DNP holla when you are ready to part with that one. Right year right options right colors. Winner
Bomar, I forgot to post a photo.

Basically stock. Running boards and rear mud flaps removed. T-bars cranked ~3/4". The '06-'07 style headlights I bought to replace the broken ones in my 2000 I decided to put in here instead.

Gotta go see CT at some point about some KO2s, TGs, etc. Prolly not going to do a lot more to it, since I need at least one mode of transportation that I can haul clients around in reasonable comfort
3.webp
 
Gotta go see CT at some point about some KO2s, TGs, etc. Prolly not going to do a lot more to it, since I need at least one mode of transportation that I can haul clients around in reasonable comfort View attachment 1097834

Gonna go ahead and start doubling up on my Prozac script. Ain't nuthin harder than selling a Jew that use to drive a Ferrari a set of tires...

Holla when you ready dNp.
 
I completely agree. The only killer of a 2uz is running it hot. QUOTE]

Any idea what temp is the threshold for damage?
230, 240 etc..
 
Actual temp reading I have no idea. Heater hose blew on I55 and it was driven roughly 15 miles to the next exit. Toyota should do like some of the higher end cars do, engine running hot or loses oil pressure it shuts the car off. This one was killed by ignorance. Otherwise a $9 heater hose T and some coolant and it would have been back on the road.
 
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