Builds 100 Guy builds ANOTHER 60 Series (1 Viewer)

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So week or so ago we got a fresh battery in the rig checked all fluids and turned the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything was good. We checked for spark everything looked awesome in that department. New air filter, check.

So we poured a little gas down the carb, and touched over the key on a fresh battery… And we heard some knocking. Not terrible, and kind of hard to locate as it sounded the same from the top and the bottom. She wouldn’t fire on the old nasty gas.

So the boys and I drain the oil today, and we filtered it but didn’t see any metal flake of any kind so at least that was encouraging. We pulled all the bolts for the oil pan but it was glued on. Weather cut our day short so we decided to call it an afternoon. We’re hoping the weather clears after dinner so we can pull the pan and see what we can see.

I’ve read about 2F’s making knocking sounds from the cam bushing? I’m not sure what that means other than it sounds better than rod knock. The underside is an oily mess, like 1/4” of grime. I’ll get it up in the air and run the hotsie under there soon. I hate working on an oily rig. Side not the underside is RUST FREE! Nice to see.

Everything looks very stock, I love unmolested rigs. If we have serious engine issues, we’ll likely drop in a LS Gen 3 5.3 with a 5 speed. If that’s the case, I’ll dive into suspension and body work while the summer holds here in the frozen north and let our piggy bank swell up before tackling a new engine project. That or we will track down a used long block and swap it in.

I wanted a father son project… looks like we’re gonna get one! :bounce:
 
The boy wanted to mount up the 285-65/17’s… who am I to say no!?

Gives us about 4” more to work under so it’s a win for now.
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I imagine this is the new look for a while…
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carpet in the rear and on the back of the seat has faded to a greenish tint. Might look for a replacement after I attempt to clean it up.
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I power-washed filthy/oil-stained carpet in a first gen 4Runner. Didn’t get it “clean” enough…but it wasn’t worn…so I dyed it with RIT…worked great and looks like new.
 
for an experiment you can see if the old gas will actually burn, a small amount spilled on the ground and a match.

I may be able to help with the engine situation if you want to stay 2F power.
 
for an experiment you can see if the old gas will actually burn, a small amount spilled on the ground and a match.

I may be able to help with the engine situation if you want to stay 2F power.
Thanks Paul. If we get that far I’ll let you know. Hit me up before you let a running short block go.
 
Where does all the jack stuff go? The tire irons etc? Bottle jack seems to have some tie downs under the drivers seat… not sure on the rods.
There’s a panel in the very back on the driver’s side that opens up. You can strap and clamp the jack and tool bag in the compartment assuming the strap and clamp are still in place. You can also access the rear washer reservoir bag from that panel by opening the round plug.
 
We checked off a few more items in the to do list. We had one stubborn gas strut bolt that was rounding off and not backing out. Time to teach the young man about PB blaster, impact guns and cutting tools. Haha

Cardboard to protect the paint… first time with a cutting wheel for my son so a few precautions can’t hurt.
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Time to cut!
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He did awesome, no dings to the body or paint. Clean cut, A few hits from the impact gun and out it came. Clean and easy. Installed the new ball head for the gas strut.
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Gotta’ love an easy win. I assured my son they don’t always work out like this!
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Next up was some new keys. Our 60 came with a single copy of a copy of a copy of a key… and it was wearing down. I had a 100 key cut from the VIN and asked my local parts guy at Toyota about cutting a new 60 key. He mentioned there is a key code on the passenger side lock cylinder that gives him the code to cut. So we dove in…

Pulled the door panel to see an unmolested moisture barrier, pretty cool.
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Found a slightly past it’s prime speaker.
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We had to clean off the lock cylinder but right on top you can clearly see the “K0xxx” designation (red)… I blurred out the last digits of the code but you get the idea. $17 later I have 2 brand new fresh cut keys from Toyota that fit and work on every lock on the truck.

I’ll take the win.
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Time to teach the young man about PB blaster, impact guns and cutting tools.
Seafoam Deep Creep is my go-to when I need something to come apart nicely and nothing else seems to work. I've been using the same bottle for about 8 years. It smells like poison, so you know it's good.
 
Seafoam Deep Creep is my go-to when I need something to come apart nicely and nothing else seems to work. I've been using the same bottle for about 8 years. It smells like poison, so you know it's good.
I like Kroil. It’s expensive so you know it’s good. I used it to restore a Delta table saw from the 1930’s. Talk about stuck bolts…
 
It smells like poison, so you know it's good.
The difference between homeowner stuff and professional stuff right there.
 
That is really cool! Nice find! :beer::popcorn:
 
Finally had some time to pull the pan and see what we’re dealing with… should this stuff be in there!? :doh:

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Looks like #1 cylinder had a connecting rod bolt let go and this is the result… everything else looked pretty good. Shame on such a low mileage engine. 139k and smoked. Crank shaft looks chewed up pretty good. Looks like decision time. 2F or LS. I may have a line on a complete 3.4l Toyota v6 out of a Tacoma, budget will be the big factor.


This was why we saw when we dropped the pan. I let my son figure it out. He said shouldn’t there be a nut on that? Yes, son, it should. Haha
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Rest of the bottom end looks typical. Realy clean actually. Good cross hatch on the cylinder walls, cam looks clean smooth.
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And when we pulled the rod cap off we saw this… I’m not sure of this bearing can be reused? RIP.
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Dad is learning too. If we had scraped some of the oil caked goop off the oil pan we could have see the deformation of the oil pan and connecting rod cap making contact. Oh well, live and learn. It would only work on cylinders 1 & 2 but we could have seen it if we had looked.

Front of the oil pan.
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Front driver side made contact too
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Front on the underside of the pan, could have seen this is we looked hard enough.
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Draining all the engine glitter and Frosted Flakes from the bearing.
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I feel ya’ son. (Actually he couldn’t keep from laughing). He’s dreaming of a LS3 swap. My wallet is tearing up already.
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If anyone has a lead on a 2F shortblock or complete engine I’m all ears. I’m in Bozeman, MT. Willing to road trip for a good one.
 
If anyone has a lead on a 2F shortblock or complete engine I’m all ears. I’m in Bozeman, MT. Willing to road trip for a good one.


just north of you, I'll get to your PM
 

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