2F oil cooler bracket connections

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sggoat

sggoat

Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Threads
66
Messages
3,216
Location
Alva, Fl.
Had a leak on the oil cooler at the bracket connection(oil). Got a spare from a MUD member, and now trying to make sure I have all the pathways clean before installing the cleaned cooler. Anyone know what the bracket bolts are for in the pics?
oil cooler1.webp
oil cooler2.webp
oil cooler3.webp
 
There is also another one under the oil filter that I couldn't get a good pic of
 
They are good for cleaning out the filter base, the bottom one has a spring and check valve in it, so be careful not to loose the little 'check valve'. I took all of my plugs out and soaked the filter base in mineral spirits, after cleaning, I taped up all openings and blasted the base and painted it, then lubed the check valve and spring with motor oil and re-assembled. Good as new!,

Skip
 
Thank you! Since I'm redoing the cooler, think I will clean these out as well--thanks for the check valve tip--
BTW, for others, I found out from the local radiator guy some cleaning techniques--For the oil side--soak in mineral spirits first(from fj401978-thanks) then use purple superclean full strength-shake-shake-shake. drasin & flush clean. Then you can use denatured alcohol to help get the water out and dry.
For the water side---Cascade-~1.5 ozs. in a quart of hot water. pour it in and-shake-s-s)drain, flush a couple of times and let dry.
New "O" rings and copper gaskets are avail from SOR(thanks to fj401978 for that too)
 
Last edited:
sggoat said:
Cleaning techniques--For the oil side--soak in mineral spirits first(from fj401978-thanks) then use purple superclean full strength-shake-shake-shake. drasin & flush clean.
For the water side---Cascade-~1.5 ozs. in a quart of hot water. pour it in and-shake-s-s)drain, flush a couple of times and let dry.

New "O" rings and copper gaskets are avail from SOR
Click to expand...

Excellent cleaning tips.

New "O" rings and copper gaskets are available next day with no shipping charges from your local Toyota dealer.
 
thank you for that--my local dealer seems to have a prob. with my cruiser's VIN, so I usu. will default to Beno--

FJ40Jim said:
Excellent cleaning tips.

New "O" rings and copper gaskets are available next day with no shipping charges from your local Toyota dealer.
Click to expand...
 
thank you, sir!
 
Got the filter bracket off and cleaned. I can't imagine how this thing ever cooled anything-check valve completely plugged, as well as the lower passages. Got it all cleaned using the mineral spirits fill and shake, then the SuperClean internal wash. Used some long small diameter wire brushes from HF Tools-cut the loop off the end and chucked them into a drill--cleaned great. After a wash, blew all the passages out w/air. Decided to make sure all the metal was gone, so ran a small dia. magnet down each passage--got some wire debris out(don't ever use a brass brush for this-non-magnetic--)
Note: Check valve is turned 180 in pics--the spring end goes into the bolt recess.
oil filter bracket plugs1.webp
oil filter bracket2.webp
oil filter bracket3.webp
oil filter bracket assy w-gaskets.webp
oil filt bracket reinstalled1.webp
 
Not sure about that at all--that's the way the rig came to me. Just got the OEM fuel pump in from Beno, and it is the older style-the one you can rebuild(two connections). The truck currently has a Weber on it--no return line, so I'm going to have to fab a return relief for the new pump-planning on just adding a tee in the discharge line to the return line through a small globe valve-that way, at least I won't blow the diaphragm on the new pump. The 75 carb is done, so when it goes on, the issue goes away, since it does have the return- I prob should'nt bother and just wait a little and put the 75 carb on.
FJ40Jim said:
Curious: Why the points distributor (76-77) and the later (79-newer) fuel pump?
Click to expand...
 
New fabbed up heater pipe(rail)-copper. The oil cooler rail will be made of Brass tubing. hopefully, no more rust issues with this material--
IMG_1158.webp
IMG_1159.webp
 
sggoat said:
Just got the OEM fuel pump in from Beno, and it is the older style-the one you can rebuild(two connections). The truck currently has a Weber on it--no return line, so I'm going to have to fab a return relief for the new pump-planning on just adding a tee in the discharge line to the return line through a small globe valve-that way, at least I won't blow the diaphragm on the new pump.
Click to expand...

You're overthinking it. The same pump is used on E-73 trucks w/ no fuel return and they work fine (except for hot restarts). The pump doesn't blow up just because it is deadheaded. That's how mechanical pumps are designed to work.
 
Thread Revival and question:

When I reassembled my motor and components I removed all the bolts mentioned in the first part of thread and replaced with Copper crush washers available at Advanced Auto but now I’ve developed leaks.

I’ve attempted to lookup Toyota part numbers but not finding them. Jan 1981 FJ40 Van

1981 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER VAN(HARDTOP),WITH SWING OUT BACK DOOR OIL FILTER

Can anyone help with part numbers?
 
These are the parts for the 2 big banjo bolts. They don't break out the plug bolts & crushwashers on the iron cooler base.


90430-18012
GASKET, CRUSH WASHER

252450%2fMA9271_7_15710C_RL.png

Part Description Gasket(For Oil Pump Outlet Pipe)
Require Quantity 2
Package Quantity 1
Manufacturer Toyota. This genuine Toyota part is guaranteed by Toyota's factory warranty.
Your Price: $1.29
Retail Price: $1.75

90301-21176
RING, O

252450%2fMA9271_6_15710B_RL.png

Part Description Ring, O(For Oil Cooler)
Comment
(FOR OIL COOLER)
Require Quantity 2
Package Quantity 1
Manufacturer Toyota. This genuine Toyota part is guaranteed by Toyota's factory warranty.
Your Price: $3.89
Retail Price: $5.26
You Save: $1.37
 
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