the DSRTRDR is getting some TLC . . .

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:o I guess so

when I finally broke my first birf on Golden Spike in 2011 after some 7 years of wheeling this thing :steer:, I was informed in no uncertain terms "we are not going to wrench on this POS coarse spline stuff again" - so, moving forward . . .
 
you have to give it to me, though - I have proved the point that one can wheel a manual truck at Moab for more than 7 years (9 separate wheeling trips to Moab) just about fine . . . :grinpimp:
 
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Will get the pix caught up someday, maybe, keep getting distracted, like by wheeling!:hillbilly:

Next up, steering box, FZJ80 type. No matter how long they are allowed to blead, are always a mess.
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Took a FJ60 box apart at the same time, so some comparisons. The '80 parts are upper/left and '60 parts are lower/right.

The bore/piston on the '80 is ~ 3.150", on the '60 ~2.75". The '80 will have significantly more assist.

The valve/input assembly differs. On the '60, it comes apart and the preload is set externally, makes for more places to leak. On the '80, Toyota lists the input as an assembly, no parts, not serviceable, no problem the aftermarket kits include the seals. With the adjuster inside there is only one place to leak, the input seal.

The sector shaft is ~1.25" on the '60, vs ~1.42" on the '80. Overall, in every way, the '80 box is beefier than the '60 box.
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:cool:
 
Toss the sector in the lathe and apply some shine, do this for two reasons: Where the sector shaft seal rides is the lowest part of the box, moisture collects there, often has rust pitting in this area. The shaft will be used as the SST to expand/shape the sector seal, as long as it is smooth, works great.

The input resealed, setting the preload, the SST is an old yoke with a 1/4"dr socket tacked to it.:hillbilly:
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I sure hope the alum bib stays... Just not the same without that... I have seen manual steering and stock lift go places I didn't think imaginable... ( BTW Junior I'm talking about you if you read this) :)

When it comes down to it ... Your as good at wheeling as your truck and your ability to control it... And Claudia you have a great truck and ability to wheel... My truck has been great... But the dents , bangs and broken stuff was ALL me LOL
 
Fun with balls! Put 33 in one pile and 11 in the other. The pile of 33 go into the piston, when done one should be even with the ledge on each side. Grease the split tube, stack the group of 11 in there, then assemble.

In the last pic, the "wave" is where the spring loaded, preload assist mechanism plunger contacts. It works to reduce steering wheel play when cruising in a straight line. Another advantage the '80 box has over the '60.
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Now the fun part, sector shaft seal. The o-ring does in first. Then deform the Teflon rig and put it inside the o-ring. Gently form it back as close as possible to shape without knocking it off of the o-ring. Now the spacer washer, held by the snap ring. Last the dust seal.

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Using the sector shaft, stretch/shape the Teflon into place. I first insert it from the bottom to get it started, then from the top.

Assemble, torque the rest of the parts, set the overall drag/preload and good to go!
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It looks like the 80 box has a very similar mount to the 60, no? This looks like a great option, why aren't more people doing the 80? Having said that I had a 60 box on my troopy for 15 years and a lot of miles and wheeling with no problems. Of course, I had a cooler and ran full synthetic atf, which probably helped.
 
The pump is a vane type from a 1988 FJ62, good pump.

Parts cleaned, everything looks great, so it's just a reseal job.

Not much to the kit, a snap ring, seal and a few o-rings.

Polish where the seal rides and put it together. The pulley make a nice stand.:hillbilly:

Good to go.
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