Recent content by zipdoa

Crushed this job on the side of I-15 near SLC. Truck died in 100F heat. Was lucky to have been carrying a spare 950-0210 with me. I can confirm the importance of the o-ring :)

combustion bowl is the biggest difference 060 051 Other could be ring lands/groove width/casting differences/coatings/metallurgy. The injectors for the late model 80's 1HDT matches the 02+ 100 series 1HDT Looks like they share the same PN# (1110117020) for the head as well. I'd be...

If you want to run NHK as bixenon, it will likely fire as a high beam when DRL is enabled/on. I disabled DRL in techstream and that solves the issue. To keep DRL and have bixenon you’ll need to wire up a harness that prevents the NHK from getting the DRL voltage but allows the NHK to get full...

I ran P0420/P0430 codes for 5 years/50miles. Decided to clean my cats this year in the oxalic/citric acid bath method. Replaced 4x o2 sensors and all gaskets. No more codes, techstream values show healthy (ish) cats. $200 for the clean instead of $2k plus for cats.

Nice part about VAG vehicles is the motors are designed to come out on the subframe. They're a nightmare to work on if you don't have the right tools, but the V10 comes out in under 4 hours with the SST:

You'll want a different tow rig for that much weight. A properly distributed load means 10-15% of the total weight will be tongue weight. that's 785lbs - 1175lbs. Don't know that I'd push the factory 650lbs hitch that far. Keep in mind, tongue weight subtracts from your GVWR (1,270lbs), so you...

Looks like 8HP conversions are getting a lot of traction. I'm keeping my eyes out for a late model 8HP from a x3/x4m: https://www.domi-works.com/products/toyota-1uz-2uz-3uz-8hp-70-75-n63-adapter-kit https://www.seemslegitgarage.com/product-page/toyota-1uz-3uz-8hp-adapter-kit...

AHC is the best. I've maintained mine and added load capacity with OEM non-ahc springs/torsions. Being able to drop into LO for parking garages is very handy.

Continuity errors on pricing could be the result of a few different things on the backend, but this thread is definitely the result of poor taste. I’d be embarrassed to have started this thread. Slinging s*** on the biggest cruiser forum in the world is pretty whack.

AHC lift is silly, but AHC is worth keeping. I would recommend calibrating back to factory ride height (which needs to be set with AHC off) and running OEM non-AHC torsions and springs. Anything above that (OME, Ironman etc) will provide too much ‘lift’ and you won’t be able to get into spec...

OEM 100 series (2UZ) non-ahc springs - You will exceed GVWR before you lose the ability to go into HI with these OEM 100 series (2uz) non-ahc torsions - perfect if you're running a heavy bumper + winch Anything that provides more load capacity than OEM non-ahc suspension will require you to...

That's just how they are brother. At least it was on both my 100's.

Interesting. I bought used non-ahc oem t-bars and springs from a 100 a couple years ago. The springs are stiff unloaded, but perfect for a full set of drawers/fridge/expo load + tongue weight. I've just added an ARB + Warn 16.5TI-s to the truck, and will be installing the non-ahc bars asap. If...

Just to recap - I took slightly different steps than OP: 1. Heat gun instead of oven 2. Reverse mounted the projector (vs orientation in steps above) 3. Used factory headlight cap, drilled 12mm hole for morimoto harness 4. Amazon'd 9005->9006 Y-splitter to get dual high beams/bi-xenon 5...

All LX470 headlights are the same, aside lenses changing from glass to plastic.