Recent content by viperdriver69

Solved mine today! Air in the fuel system. I copied Land Cruiser Scotland by replacing the fuel filter to injector pump hose with a clear one to see what's going on, turns out there's tons of air getting in the system. I was able to loosen the hose, prime it until the bubbles were out, and...

Glad I found this thread - I just discovered the connector on mine is soaked with fuel. I'm working through a crank but no start condition right now, wondering if this could be the culprit. Never had any fault codes directly pointing to it, just working through the FSM steps. Were you able to...

Just wanted to see if you've made any progress, I'm having the same issue with mine. Have you started working through the FSM steps to test the EDU, injection pump, and ECU wiring? Those, plus visually inspecting for broken/chafed wires will help diagnose obvious electrical faults. I'm moving...

+1 same issues on a '98 JDM HDJ101. I also measure 5V instead of the 9-14V the FSM says. I wonder if that's a typo... why would you measure 9-14VDC on a circuit that's meant to put out 5V square waves? ATXLX, did you find a solution for yours?

If you go to Crutchfield.com and put in your car specs and add a head unit to the cart, it'll show you the adapter harness you need for install. My '98 JDM HDJ101 used this one, yours might be the same: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120708112/Metra-70-8112-Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html

I used a vacuum pump in the ATF dipstick line rather than the drain plug so I’m fairly sure. I was worried a full flush would more likely to cause issues vs just doing a little fresh fluid at a time

Hey folks, sad day. Just got my HDJ101 back to the States and she couldn’t make the drive home. Cruising on the highway, heard a clunk, cruise control clicked off and got the lights in the photo. The engine turned off a few seconds later and I coasted it off the road. With good temps, I’m...

Swapped a broken lower ball joint with a 555 - CruiserPatch's how-to video was awesome (I think removing the LCAs was far easier than trying to do the ball joints in place). However, the LCA bushing might as well have been welded into the arm. Thought I'd swap those while I had the arm out re...

Big week of little projects - Oil change (OEM filter / Rotella T4 15W40) - wish I'd done 10W30 for the cold weather but pressure's barely above half on the gauge Fog light bulb replacement Pin 7 mod (finally) Stanadyne Performance diesel additive Replaced leather steering wheel cover (Loncky)...

Thanks for that - not sure, I've been using EWD339U, but now that you point it out that does look like it's for the 2UZ. I'll go back and see what's different, but if the grounds aren't the same like you said it's back to square one. I'll see what ECUs cost and may just take your advice.

I've found 2 threads with same issue but neither had a resolution, appreciate any help! 1998 HDJ101K right hand drive (JDM) Rear wiper works like a charm if either rear door or rear hatch is open, so wondering if it's a problem at the common ground between those door courtesy switches and the...

Hi Mud, My rear wiper quit on me a few weeks ago - no movement in any switch position. Rear cleaner still works and delivers fluid. I disconnected the motor and tested 12V at the first plug into the motor. Then when I plugged the motor back in, it worked perfectly fine, until I cranked the...

Can pick up next week!

Yeah the pic is misleading, my bad. When you click on the parts listed for $50.21, the actual cost ends up being about $76. I think $50 is for an aftermarket, $76 is for that part number OEM. Oh sweet thanks! I just noticed there's a second schematic for AHC-equipped and it lists all the same...

Hi Mud, I found a few posts of people asking which part number to buy, but haven't seen this addressed... Replacing shocks on my 1998 HDJ101K and Amayama shows 3 different part numbers for the front all for the same years, but one is $199 and others around $76 . Anyone aware of a significant...