Recent content by Skidoo

Sounds like a plan. I was pretty surprised by how hot is was getting under there after adding the plates. Lots for a 3rd party to balance in plate design between protection and cooling for widely modified rigs. Also thanks to 2001LC for his first few posts in this thread on what he has done...

Just FYI: I have 3 skidplates, front from Slee and 2 from Dissent. I found the plastic sheath had melted in a few places on the transmission wiring. So I cut some holes in the back two plates to let heat from the cats out better. Don't know if the Slee plates are better ventilated.

Thanks for the update, keep us posted. Should get better as you get to lower elevation. If you can get a tank of non-ethanol you can probably drive in the heat of the day. Check Pure-gas.org - ethanol-free gasoline in the U.S. and Canada - https://www.pure-gas.org/ for locations.

Should be good to get home. E10 gas, high temperature and high elevation are the things that most cause this. While at higher elevation if you can get non-ethanol gas and drive while cooler that will help a lot. As you get to lower elevations it should become less of an issue or even heal itself.

Here is what a new Toyota radiator for a 2000LC looks like

If the small gas station in the middle of Silverton still sells ethanol free, that is an easy solution that works for me and my friends. No issues even at the top of Imogene Pass.

Have had my Dissent front bumper for 7 years and still very happy with their powder coat. On the steel verses aluminum. For the rear bumper the steel has survived huge hits that would damage aluminum. Big ledges and 100s rear departure angle make for huge hits back there. My front skid plate...

Sounds good. I cut some holes in my Dissent middle and rear skidplates for cooling the transmission. Might want to think about where to put the hole to maintain strength.

SWR's that high usually mean something is broken. Have you gone through the steps in this guide? high-swr-troubleshooting-guide

I have done low range on my 100 and a friend's 80 and didn't like the look of a couple of bearings in each of them so replaced them. Also mine had some scoring of the oil pump so replaced it as well. How many miles you have, doing seals?

For rear shocks a flexhead ratchet wrench will make short work of it. Don't remember the size you need, but it will not be cheap.

Feel your pain, lot of damage there. Breaking a T-case is pretty rare on 100s. I haven't seen posts about them breaking.

What suprarx7nut says! Using LX bars makes me want to question the "high end shop" expertise. Could cause breakage of lower control arm as it will be bottoming out. The LCAs have a weakness usually only encountered in very hard wheeling, but the LX bars could cause the issue.

Whenever I look into mods that change the roll rate of our heavy Cruisers, these videos from the Mideast come to mind. They sure make it look easy to roll them up on two wheels.

You may also have current flow through the standard fuse, if the meter's resistance is high enough you would not see it. In general since you are not using the amp meter the way it is designed to be used, you really don't have good data, and other folks readings would be all over the map...