Recent content by Neuner

I probably just learned the hard way but want to make sure. On a whim, I grabbed the Sylvania H7 LED bulbs to put in our '99. I also put the rubber seal cup over the back. Probably not a surprise that one of them only lasted 9 months. It's summer in south central Texas with typical 3-digits...

Completed with a wooden dowel rod. Took my time and got the seal as flush with the inner lip edge as I could. Been a little over a week and no leaks so I'm happy. Hopefully it stays that way.

That looks like the passenger side? The driver side is wider and doesn't get set all the way in the recess.

It's our main vehicle and I need to get it back on the road again. The dealer took some time to get the seal but Autozone has their Duralast brand available. Is it crucial that this seal be OEM like the Axle?

Replaced my CV Axles and did the differential seals at the same time. Looks like I goofed on the driver's side as it's now leaking. The driver's side was much easier to insert than the passengers side which I thought was odd. In searching on what I did wrong, I came across this video where...

Everything with the repair of the CV Axle has gone well so far until it came time to insert the new CV into the Diff. Watched and read about various techniques but I can't seem to get the last 1/8" of the CV inserted. The C-ring at the end of the shaft I've tried in both the 12 and 6 o'clock...

Mines good. I have the new axle in place in the hub and partially in the diff. Is there a trick to getting the rest of the axle into the diff? Have it snap into place?

It doesn't appear you can replace just the upper ball joint, you have to buy the whole stupid arm. Anyway of getting just the joint and can it be replaced? I've seen videos of individuals removing them but it almost seems everything is destroyed in the process.

Gotcha. Dealership called back to confirm and used the opportunity to get the diff seal. I just saw that the drivers side is getting bad as well, along with the upper ball joint. Will see how bad this run is first.

Thanks for the quick replies. Sorry, I forgot to note that were the red circle is, there is a sizeable crack in the boot. I've been doing my homework as much as I can and ordered a new CV Axle assembly from the dealer. Price wasn't too surprising at $516+tax but more than I'd like. Now to...

1999 with 330k. The front passenger axle boot has cracked with large amounts of grease coming out. I don't know enough about these axle designs and setup but I'm assuming the Boot is suppose to be just a dust cover and not have grease in it? If that's true, then what should I start looking at...

After returning a leaking gauge set, got one that works really well, and took readings; AC full on, Fan on highest setting. RPMs held around 2k Ambient temperature 90* Low Side = 44 psi High Side = 340 psi The ratio is greater than what the service manual notes as posted above. In other AC...

Correct in that the readings are in PSI and I used cans. System was evacuated prior. Yes, I vacuumed the system. The gauges I used were a loaner so I'm not trusting the reading. I ordered my own Mastercool set and will take readings with it following the posted service manual guidelines. The...

Not sure what you mean by "whole system". With the compressor removed, I can spin both the clutch and the pulley independently without issue. If I spin them counter each other, there is a grinding and I can feel it want to bind up. It may not be the clutch but a bad bearing? We had an...

Just charged our '99 for the 1st time and it seems to be cooling the same as before but not sure. I put in the required amount of refrigerant but the Low side pressure was at 50 and the high was at 360m both of which seems high? I've searched but I can't find what it's suppose to be.