Recent content by lymerock

this is sweet, nice work!

if anyone needs fuseable link in a pinch, o'reilleys carries 14ga and 16ga on the shelf. id guess the other box stores have it too.

I don't hate it from the outside. However, I agree with others that it probably has some hidden gremlins. and will most likely not be turn key.

800 for a long block? wish i was 3000 miles closer!

I am impressed you still have an original key. Matt cut me a few blanks to replace the garbage that came with my 40 and the fit is perfect.

highway driving... so you are probably running hot. weak radiator cap, poor coolant mixture/condition, over advanced timing are all possibilities as well. anyway, just trying to help, the ground strap build up is not ideal no matter how you look at it.

oil leaking past the guide seals normally makes the plugs look blackish, wet/fouled and very different from how yours look. If I were a gambling man I would put a dollar on the existence of a lean condition. poor fuel pressure, vac leak, clogged jets...

those plugs look like your engine has been running hot. the buildup on the ground strap is certainly interesting.

overland metric has a nice database that is helpful to determine the bolt size of a particular part number, https://www.overlandmetric.com/pages/toyota-hardware-database 91112-51340 is listed as a M13x40 HISIL (hex bolt indented head, silver zinc) looking at the FSM there is no torque listing...

the last inch or so before the dist is fully seated the gears will engage and spin the rotor counter clockwise a little bit. this is completely normal and the reason why you need to clock things correctly so when fully seated the rotor points to the right of cyl 4 when the motor runs, the...

your dist looks to be 180 degrees out remove, twist 180, reinstall. at tdc on cyl 1, the rotor should be pointing just to the right of the #4 plug. closer to 4 than 3

https://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_4851_3270_3290 not sure if this system stays inside the frame or goes outside like the later styles, but its one of the few places I have found with OEM style repops.

if it aint broke, dont fix it. but if it is broke, and oil is moving from the tcase to the trans, this is a lot easier to install than dropping the tcase. regardless of opinion, it will solve a specific problem.

mine has that bracket flipped 180 and I think you are missing a hold down clamp that attaches to the bolt where the fuel lines come up through the tub. mine has a clamp there that holds the lines close the floor on the driver side of the fuel grommet. just took a look at the clearance between...

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