Recent content by Eyeorg

Thanks for these prints. I have printed both the radio bracket, as well as some door speaker grills. I took what you have for the rear speaker grill and stretched it a bit for my rear doors (i put 6.5 speakers in the rear doors instead of the rear cargo area). They are being painted now, so I...

Turns out this was not stripped or broken, its actually how its designed. Took it apart and rebuilt it, and put in a new drain plug. All working great so far. No oil leaking anymore.

Came here to say, I finally upgraded the front speakers. Found these Kickers on Amazon, and they fit perfect. OEM look, speaker fits behind door panel with enough room for window. I did end up 3d printing a spacer ring, just to give the connection to the door a little more flex and fit...

I just installed (last weekend) the exhaust from Man-a-fre. With zero knowlege and instructions, it came together fairly intuitively. Took about an hour and a half. Took longer than it should simply because I didnt understand how all the brackets worked, but once I figured it out it was...

i just bought the man a fre option, just arrived and now I am wondering if I need to weld it or not. No instructions and Im barely qualified to DIY

Came here looking to see how I can properly test my rear heater to make sure it works. I just removed it as the lines and tubes are just covered in dirt and oil (i am rebuilding the transfer case, and i am cleaning up all oil leaks). Anyhow, since i have the heater removed, I am actually now...

Thank you! The term Banjo bolt helped out a lot, as now I can find plenty of information on the topic. Would you replace the crush washers, or can they be reused?

I am replacing my oil pump, and the bolt that holds the hard line #84 in picture, has a hole in it. Assuming this allows oil to flow back down and into the pump. However when I tighten the bolt, the holes are not aligned with the line, they are perpendicular to the line. Is this expected? I...

Check out this pic, i am worried that its not just stripped, but the threads are broken off and thus a tap would not fix the problem as there in not any aluminum there to thread with a tap

Yeah I need this thing up and running before spring, or the heat gets too hot to work on it in my garage. If what I am doing fails, then I will hit you up, I am hoping a rebuild and a clean is "enough" for now.

Ahh.. thank you. I looked at the diagram wrong. Good call, I was not thinking of those, but they are essentially the same seals as the ones I mentioned above just on the other end of the drive shaft.

Just googled what a pinion seal was. The two seals on each side of the trans/tansfer case. I am hoping those are in the rebuild kit and in the picture. If they are not, thank you I will definitely want those. I think they are the ones leaking the most.

Taking it in to resurface today, thanks for the advice. I should have a new rear main seal in that picture, just took the old one out last night.

Thanks to my new found friends at Cruiser Outfitters, I have a ton of new things to do. Hoping I have it up and running again before spring! Parts I am hoping I can put in the truck: - T Case Rebuild Kit - Drain / Refill plugs - Oil Pan and gasket - clutch kit - oil pump - valve cover kit...

Thats what I was thinking....just replace it all with new. I figured I would buy the rebuild parts, and if all goes to hell, then Ill purchase new. This whole thing is supposed to be a learning journey for me, so I figured I would take the hard route first. Thanks for the advice.