Removing steering rack

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I think he means the pinch nut on the steering shaft universal joint..

I haven’t done this job yet so can’t comment directly.
That should be fairly straightforward… should be able to get to that from underneath. Buuuut I’m typically working with the vehicle on a lift, so everything is a little easier…
 
I think he means the pinch nut on the steering shaft universal joint..

I haven’t done this job yet so can’t comment directly.
Yes I’m trying to get the bolt on the steering coupling u joint. Will try turning the steering wheel as @turbo8 suggested. That didn’t occur to me. There is another coupling up higher. I wonder if the whole thing could just be clocked 180° from where it is now. If it was, it would be easy to access.
 
Yes I’m trying to get the bolt on the steering coupling u joint. Will try turning the steering wheel as @turbo8 suggested. That didn’t occur to me. There is another coupling up higher. I wonder if the whole thing could just be clocked 180° from where it is now. If it was, it would be easy to access.
Make sure you secure the steering wheel before you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack. This is so the you dont break the clock spring and to keep the wheel centered in it's rotational travel.
 
Make sure you secure the steering wheel before you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack. This is so the you dont break the clock spring and to keep the wheel centered in it's rotational travel.
Yeah, I saw that somewhere. Is it correct to assume the clock spring is on its “neutral” position with the wheels straight? The point of securing the wheel is to make sure it doesn’t get turned past full lock when disconnected from the rack?
 
Is it correct to assume the clock spring is on its “neutral” position with the wheels straight? The point of securing the wheel is to make sure it doesn’t get turned past full lock when disconnected from the rack?
Yes. Go past full lock in either direction and you risk breaking the clock spring.

Securing the wheel can also be useful for keeping the wheel/VGRS/steering rack all lined up in the center.
 
It’s been five years but I loosened the fan shroud, unbolted the engine mounts and jacked up the motor as far as I could. I couldn’t get it out any other way.
 
I took Friday and the weekend off and back at it today. Got the rack all loose and just trying to figure out how to slide it out. I have not touched the engine mounting bolts yet. There is an oil cooler bracket that interferes, and the FSM says to remove it. I removed it and it’s super close to come out. The only thing hitting the engine are the hard hydraulic lines. I think I’m gonna just pull those lines off and see if I can snake it out without loosening the engine mounts. I still may loosen the engine mounts and jack the motor up a bit to get the new rack in. I’m not sure I really wanna take the hard lines off the new rack and put them back with the racking in situ.

IMG_2757.webp
 
This job is totally kicking my @$$. I just pulled off the passenger shock. The King 2.5 coil was preventing the rack from pivoting the whole way. I will can’t get it out and am currently stuck here:
IMG_2762.webp


I also tried pulling it out the Passinger side but steering coupler shaft and associated housing can’t be rotated enough to come out the hole. To recap I have:

1. Removed oil cooler bracket.
2. Removed oil filter
3. Lifted engine about 1”
4. Removed hydraulic tubing from rack
5. Removed passenger side shock

Waiting for a buddy to come over hoping a guy at each end will be able to rotate and position the rack to slide out. If not, the only thing I can think of is removing the entire oil cooler. I know @linuxgod said his shop did that but I’m not certain that is what is preventing it from coming out.
 
Could you unbolt the driver side sway bar mount at the frame and move it forward to sneak the rack out?
Yes, I’ve thought of that but so far it’s not the thing I hit. I think it’ll clear if I can get past the tie rod hole on the passenger side
 
Yes, I’ve thought of that but so far it’s not the thing I hit. I think it’ll clear if I can get past the tie rod hole on the passenger side
Did you try hitting it with your purse?

Can you just not see where it’s getting stuck? That oil cooler probably needs to come out entirely. I’ve only done one LC rack and I don’t remember much about that job other than “it wasn’t my favorite.”
 
Did you try hitting it with your purse?

Can you just not see where it’s getting stuck? That oil cooler probably needs to come out entirely. I’ve only done one LC rack and I don’t remember much about that job other than “it wasn’t my favorite.”
I’m beginning to wish aI had just paid a pro…

It’s very close to coming out it just. It’s hanging up in the tie rod whole. It’s hard to rotate it while lifting with it with my foot while on my back under the truck guiding it past the oil cooler. A buddy is coming over latter and we’ll see. I don’t want to take the oil cooler out if I don’t need to. If I do take it out do I need to drain the radiator first? The FSM says to drain both the coolant and the oil. I can see that radiator will probably drain when I disconnect the hoses but I’m not sure how much oil will really drain by removing the cooler.
 
I’m beginning to wish aI had just paid a pro…

It’s very close to coming out it just. It’s hanging up in the tie rod whole. It’s hard to rotate it while lifting with it with my foot while on my back under the truck guiding it past the oil cooler. A buddy is coming over latter and we’ll see. I don’t want to take the oil cooler out if I don’t need to. If I do take it out do I need to drain the radiator first? The FSM says to drain both the coolant and the oil. I can see that radiator will probably drain when I disconnect the hoses but I’m not sure how much oil will really drain by removing the cooler.
Clamp or plug the coolant lines to the cooler, then remove it.
 
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