Worth saving the bacon?

[RockDoc]

Hi all,

Came across this pig in the local classifieds, and being the sucker I am, I'll likely go take a look at it. It's described as a '67 in non-running condition, and is about an hour away from me. I'm certainly not up to speed on the 55s, but the 2F under the hood and shifter on the floor lead me to believe it is a later truck....

Is there anything in these photos that makes you knowledgable souls scream run away? Looks like there is at least a generous skim coating of body filler, the rockers seam to be gone and the rear wheel well has some rust through.... Do these trucks remain pretty solid structurally despite a rough exterior, or do they rot out underneath?

Thanks,
Curtis.

 

[Lee777]

Its hard to tell how the body really is until you take a grinder to it. But the front clip has the usual rust along the inner apron but has a pretty good looking front grille. Looks like you have good windshield and cargo glass which is nice. I wonder if the tailgate is working, that "toyota" emblem is always nice. Dash, and guages looks pretty good. It hard to tell how much rust there is until you start taking her apart. Usual spots are the DS, PS body front body mounts. Definitely looks like a parts truck with all that bondo and that its "non running"

I wonder what he drive drain is like. Does it stop? Earlier models had Drum brakes. So be prepared to reman those.

Dual cylender brake cylender with brake booster is nice to have if you want to convert to front disc.

Take a good look under the front floor boards and rear seating area as well as the rear quarters. As well are the body mounts in tact or dissolved? This will give you and Idea of how much fabrication your up against. How are the roof drip channels? is there a lot of roof rust? will it require a new roof, or is it minimal so that it can be patched/repaired?

Good luck, look forward to a build thread!

Lee

 

[Deathoncall63]

The classy thing about it has got to be the drapes across the back windows. Quality aftermarket upgrade

 

[3_puppies]

my guess is someone posted as a 67 but should be a 77, as they didn't exist in 67.

how much $$? it does look like more of a parts rig tho.

 

[RockDoc]

Its hard to tell how the body really is until you take a grinder to it. But the front clip has the usual rust along the inner apron but has a pretty good looking front grille. Looks like you have good windshield and cargo glass which is nice. I wonder if the tailgate is working, that "toyota" emblem is always nice. Dash, and guages looks pretty good. It hard to tell how much rust there is until you start taking her apart. Usual spots are the DS, PS body front body mounts. Definitely looks like a parts truck with all that bondo and that its "non running"

I wonder what he drive drain is like. Does it stop? Earlier models had Drum brakes. So be prepared to reman those.

Dual cylender brake cylender with brake booster is nice to have if you want to convert to front disc.

Take a good look under the front floor boards and rear seating area as well as the rear quarters. As well are the body mounts in tact or dissolved? This will give you and Idea of how much fabrication your up against. How are the roof drip channels? is there a lot of roof rust? will it require a new roof, or is it minimal so that it can be patched/repaired?

Good luck, look forward to a build thread!

Lee

Thanks for the tips on where to look

my guess is someone posted as a 67 but should be a 77, as they didn't exist in 67.

how much $$? it does look like more of a parts rig tho.

More than I think it would be worth, and I'll bet more than they expect to get. I think the combo of 2F and early tail lights narrows it down to 74-77.... I wonder if they just got the 6 & 7 backwards for a 76.

Thinking more about it last night, I'm starting to think I should forget about it. I'd be looking at it as a future trail truck project and I've already got another 62 in the works to keep me busy. What can be seen of rust damage (rotted out wheel well, missing rockers and wheel arch lips, is that galvanized steel patching up under the filler?) doesn't look encouraging as far as structural integrity. Drivetrain I would be happy to take on, but brake conversion, power steering conversion and a ton of body/structural reworking don't really turn my crank. I'll see if the guy responds to my request for pics, and likely drop it if there isn't anything encouraging.

 

[Trollhole]

It's a 75

Early course hubs, 2f

 

[RockDoc]

Thanks Marshal.

I'll have to take a peak in the "best 2F" thread and see what that means for piston shape and 3FE head compatibility, as that's where I'd go with it if I got it.

edit domed pistons, no good for a quick and easy 2FE

 

[PabloCruise]

Keep us posted man - that is not too awful bad for a Pig.

 

[LC_Hamma]

At least it's really straight & no major visible rust, but who knows what's hiding in the usual places ;p I'd check the fame & underbody, especially around the low hanging rear sheetmetal & body mounts. You prolly know the rest of the typical problem areas. You don't want to piss him off by low-balling (like $200). See what he's asking for other vehicles you're familiar with so you can get a feel of what could be a *fair offer.