2000UZJ's big HID thread - what, where and how

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2000UZJ

2000UZJ

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Threads
214
Messages
9,207
Location
Atlanta
Recent HID projects:​


Land Cruiser 100 Headlight Upgrades:
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1) 100 Series Bi-Xenon Projector Retrofit: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/491657-how-hid-projector-retrofit-100-series.html (Replaces OEM 9006 Halogen Bulb with a Mini H1 Bi-xenon projector. Best alternative to PnP, easiest retro, best bang for your buck)
2) DDM Tuning Kit:One Year Update **Click**

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100 Series LX470 Headlight Upgrades/Modifications:
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1) LX470 Projector Lens Swap: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/543532-lx470-projector-tsx-r-lens-swap.html(Sharper cutoff, delete squirrel finders, reduce OEM hotspots
2) 3" FXR bi-xenon Retrofit into LX470: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/591290-solution-problem-should-never-have-existed.html (Removes OEM halogen projector, replaces with full 3" Bi-Xenon HID projector)


100 Series Retrofitted HID Output Pictures:
 3" FXR bi-xenon Projectors
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Low Beams:
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Specs: FX-R 3" Bi-Xenon Projector, 55W Morimoto D2S Ballasts, OEM Phillips 85122+ D2S Bulbs.

High Beams:
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Specs: Morimoto 55W Ballasts, 9006 4300K Bulb


HID Fog Lights:

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Specs: Morimoto Blazer HID Fog Lights. 35W Morimoto Ballasts, 3700K 880 HID Bulbs​


100 Series PnP Cutoff
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***** Original HID PnP Thread Below*****​
Finally.

APEXCONE 55W 5,000K kit. Very happy. Except for the 5 hours it took to cut, solder, and mount everything. We pretty much had to slice and dice the HID kit and build it the way it should of came. :meh:, I don't want this to become a legal or safety thread, I know the drawbacks and it's not one of those cool retro jobs, so don't bring it. The cutoff it actually pretty good, considering what I thought it was going to be. The 55W are a LOT brighter than 35W HID kits. The ballasts are very heavy duty and seem reliable. Having a lifetime warranty from DDM Tuning was a huge plus, even being 2500 miles away. I drove about 40 miles home, about halfway on highway and the other half on pitch black country roads with oncoming traffic and rolling hills. Nobody flashed me. I drove by a friend and he stated they are bright, but not blinding nor annoying. Here are some pictures.
:beer: (MUD won't let me upload right now, so they are going on photobucket, let me know if the links are incorrect). They look blue in the picture, they are a very bright pure white, I'm not sure why they look that blue. The camera doesn't quite capture the cutoff that well either, it magnifies the light scattered, which surpisinly isn't much. Maybe pman can tell us how bright they are, since we installed them together. Ill be happy to take pictures of anything tomorrow when there is some light out.
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it would look nice if all your lights were the same color on the kelvin scale.
 
Looks really good, can you post a link to the page that you bought it from?
 
2000UZJ said:
photo23.jpg
Click to expand...

It looks like your oil pressure is awfully high. I know it's a dummy gauge but you might wanna check that out. Nice job. I'm really getting tired of turning my high beams on and off constantly on smaller roads and even sometimes on the highway (lots of unlit stretches around here). Does your HID kit make it bright enough to pretty much avoid the use of high beams?
 
2000UZJ said:
That is planned. I hope to get HID in the IPF's as well. I would never do HID in high beams...
Click to expand...


Curious, why not the highs as hid's? I think it would be best, I only use highs when no ones around.

Goodluck with the HID's in the IPF's.... I'd like to see the write up on that!:clap:
 
cmfhsu said:
It looks like your oil pressure is awfully high. I know it's a dummy gauge but you might wanna check that out. Does your HID kit make it bright enough to pretty much avoid the use of high beams?
Click to expand...


haha, I was thinking the same thing when I saw that pressure gauge.

Most HID's make it bright enough to avoid having to use the HB's but there will always be more clarity with the HB's all on.
 
Bull Cruiser said:
Curious, why not the highs as hid's? I think it would be best, I only use highs when no ones around.
Click to expand...

High beams are used for flashing, and rapid on/off power to HID's will kill the ballasts. Remember that HID's have a warm up period, so they won't work for flashing since there is no instant on.
 
2000UZJ said:
APEXCONE 55W 5,000K kit. Very happy. Except for the 5 hours it took to cut, solder, and mount everything. We pretty much had to slice and dice the HID kit and build it the way it should of came.
Click to expand...

Do you have any details on the relay you guys used, pictures or part numbers? URL link?

After seeing your pics I'm definitely installing my kit. I have the exact same setup you have Apexcone 55w w/ 5k bulbs.
 
2000UZJ said:
APEXCONE 55W 5,000K kit. Very happy. Except for the 5 hours it took to cut, solder, and mount everything. We pretty much had to slice and dice the HID kit and build it the way it should of came.
Click to expand...

Can you expand on this more? It claims to be a plug and play system. What needed to be modified and why? Thanks!
 
I have a migraine and not going to read, but mine was plug and play, why not yours?

I stuffed my ballasts behind the turn signals.

Shane
 
Glad the hids worked out for you. I love both of my ddm hid kits. They work great and very reliable. Expecially for the price.
 
Using HID in high beams wouldn't work that well, unless you left them on for more than 30 seconds (great for country roads but not for city roads). Reason is the warm up period, they take a few seconds to really get bright and even then, the 55W still gets brighter. As they get older and "break in", they will warm up faster. Now it takes about 20-30 seconds depending on the temperature to fully warm up.

On to the plug n play thingy. They said you can plug it in and walah, you have light. Plug N' Play meaning you can plug the factory 9006 plug into the ballast, and then plug the ballast into the xenon bulb and your done, But the ballasts require around 7Amps at start up, the stock harness won't even produce half of that. So when I hooked it up and tried to turn on the lights, nothing happened. I thought for a second and a searched online. I found out some information but nothing that really helped. We ended up making a relay for the lights and cutting almost every single wire and re-routing it. Thus making the ballasts pull power from the battery, and using the factory harness as a trigger sensor. Think of it as a light switch.

For using the low beams only, I use to always drive with my fog lights on to fill that low lying space that the low beams never seamed to fill. I installed these and now find the fogs unnecessary for driving.

I'll snap some pictures of the ballasts, bulbs, and wiring setup, It's hard to explain, but if I sit down this week and get bored I will draw one up and post it.

Apexcone Raptor HID Kit (35w or 55w): DDM Tuning - HID Kits, DEPO Lights, BMW Bumpers & Lighting
 
Trunk Monkey said:
The place he got them from also sells a relay harness, pulls power straight from the battery. If you use the 35w kit then would shouldn't need a relay.

I think I found the HID conversion for my 240XGT's.
Click to expand...



They do, but I did not realize it until I installed them. I decided to build one, instead of buying one and paying 15$ for shipping. So I made one for about 13 dollars. Speaking on that, I need to go take pictures.
 
So, is it confirmed that the OEM wiring harness is sufficient to fire the 35w kit? If so, I will order a set.
 
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