[flintknapper]

Bought this Warn 8274 new in 1983 and have been using it pretty hard the last 24 years.

Recently I decided to split the case, change the oil, and install fill and drain plugs (something I’ve been meaning to do for years).

As you can see…it was in dire need of some TLC, but it was still running strong, a testimony to the build quality of this winch and yet another reason why so many of us love this model.








Once I split the case, I decided to go ahead and "freshen" her up.


In the post below this, you will see the parts all cleaned up and ready to reassemble. The only new part(s) needed (on mine) were a #8680 lower housing kit, which is comprised of the drum bushings (both ends) and a thrust washer and seal (all related to the drum). Also, I replaced the motor shaft bearing.

See next post:

[flintknapper]

Parts cleaned up and ready to reassemble. If anyone would like to see a close up of a part or would like a pic of any assembly phase let me know. I will try to accommodate all requests.








There is a good write up on an 8274 rebuild at the link below, but he didn’t go as far into his winch as I did mine. Very good info though.

Warn 8274 rebuild


Maybe this will be of some help to others. There are a lot of older 8274’s out there that could easily be brought back to nearly new condition with just a little effort.

I will post pics of the finished product in the next week or so.

[D'Animal]

This looks like a great build/rebuild thread covering the 8274. I have to go through 2 of mine before next wheeling season.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by D'Animal

This looks like a great build/rebuild thread covering the 8274. I have to go through 2 of mine before next wheeling season.

Have you thought about moving it to Trails - Gear - Recovery section instead of the 80 series section?

Pretty sure the mods are going to do that. I didn't really know where to put it, but wanted it to get a little exposure in case anyone has questions.

I will be putting it back together some time in the coming week...so when thats done... it will be too late to take any additional pics if requested.

Just trying to help.

[Firedog]

I am in the process of doing the same thing to mine!
What are you using to set the depth on the drum bushing?

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Firedog

I am in the process of doing the same thing to mine!
What are you using to set the depth on the drum bushing?

The bushing (from the outside machined surface) needs to be set at a depth of .190

The bushing itself measures .8275 in depth.

The bushing bore (depth) is 1.000 even.

The .190 is necessary to accommodate the thickness of the drum "thrust washer and seal" which protrude into the bore and butt up against the bushing.

To answer your question, I have a set of digital calipers (with depth finder). So it is a simple matter to tap the bushing into the bore and measure the depth at 4 points 90 degs. apart.

You just need to have the bushing in the bore "squarely" and at approx. the proper depth.


The drum seal measures: .1365 thick
The Thrust-Washer lip is: .0685 thick

So overall the two are .2050 thick. This provides about .015 "crush" on the seal when assembled.

Looking at it....it is hard to imagine that this measurement is ultra critical. The entire set up is designed only to contain the oil in a case that is "splash" lubricating the parts. Nothing is under anything much outside of atmospheric pressure.

Too, Warn recommends that you add only 6 ozs. of 30 weight oil. That will hardly even reach the seal.

I am going to use a blend of Mobil 1 gear oil and Marvel Mystery oil for a thicker lubricant (I live in a warm climate).

So, in summary: If you have a means to measure the depth of the bushing, it needs to be .190 or pretty close. If you don't ....tap it in (its not tight) until the opposite lip protrudes just inside the case and stop. This will put you very close to the .190 needed toward the outside of the case.

[Atoyot1031]

I love the white table cloth look. Ring the bell, dinner could be served off of those parts!

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Atoyot1031

I love the white table cloth look. Ring the bell, dinner could be served off of those parts!

Yeah, sorry about that.

I have so many other projects scattered around my shop, I had to move this one outdoors to document it.

Bear with me.

[Cruiserdrew]

Great pics. Detail the reassembly.

My 1990 model looked like the same nasty mess inside when I got into it last year. I also just used plain gear oil 80w-90.

Did you end up doing the drain and fill plugs?

[Atoyot1031]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

Yeah, sorry about that.

I have so many other projects scattered around my shop, I had to move this one outdoors to document it.

Bear with me.

Seriously, I like it. My projects always have parts put into different boxes, and gnarly ziplock bags. However, I don't think the would appreciate me doing what you did...

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

I also just used plain gear oil 80w-90.

is the recomended oil for this winch .?

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Great pics. Detail the reassembly.

My 1990 model looked like the same nasty mess inside when I got into it last year. I also just used plain gear oil 80w-90.

Did you end up doing the drain and fill plugs?

Yup!

First order of business.

Fill plug I put on top, but in retrospect I would put it in the side of the upper housing if I were to do this again.

Drain plug is at bottom (side) of lower housing between two reinforcing webs. I didn't want it too close to any radius on the case for sake of strength.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Tapage

is the recomended oil for this winch .?

6 ozs. of 30 weight is called for by Warn. I am sure this is with consideration to the many climates/temperatures it would be called to serve under.

I will use a blend of syn. gear oil and MM oil, so the lube will "climb" the gears more readily. I live in a warm part of the country..so the higher viscosity shouldn't pose any problems.

[nodaksn3]

Good build-up, great pics. Wish I'd added the fill plug to mine. Ned

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by nodaksn3

Good build-up, great pics. Wish I'd added the fill plug to mine. Ned

I am surprised Warn didn't provide plugs from the factory. Even though an "oil change" is not often needed under normal use....it would have been a handy addition. I'm sure it had something to do with the damn "bean counters".

As it stands, you have no way of knowing how much oil you have in the case unless you split it.

At the very least....I would want a "drain" plug. Oil could be added by removing the screws holding the clutch mechanism in place and backing it out slightly.

I had at least 4 ozs. of water in my case along with the oil.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

6 ozs. of 30 weight is called for by Warn. I am sure this is with consideration to the many climates/temperatures it would be called to serve under.

I will use a blend of syn. gear oil and MM oil, so the lube will "climb" the gears more readily. I live in a warm part of the country..so the higher viscosity shouldn't pose any problems.

The same as me .. down here in Panamá mwe usually are in 28 - 32ºC range .. so higer viscosity it''s a must

[Blue77FJ40]

Flintknapper, any thoughts on adding a zerk to the drivers side plate and a bronze bushing there as well?
Ala aussie style?

If so, maybe you could share the part numbers, how to, etc.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Blue77FJ40

Flintknapper, any thoughts on adding a zerk to the drivers side plate and a bronze bushing there as well?
Ala aussie style?

If so, maybe you could share the part numbers, how to, etc.

Sorry to be so long getting back to you.

I had to put a new Hard Drive in my computer this afternoon and clone it. Thought it would take about 2 hours. Nope…..6 hours.

To answer your question, yes I put Zerk (grease) fittings in the drum end support.

I did not try to source a Bronze bushing because I believe the nylon filled bushing to be sufficient.

There was only .005 wear on my old bushing (most of that on the front).

I could have turned it 180 degs. and reused it if I had wanted to. Over the last 24 years…I have used this winch hundreds of hours.

But, I do think Zerk fittings are a good idea so I did install them when I replaced the bushing.

I did mine a little differently than others I have seen though. We will call this the “Flintknapper method” unless someone else can show me they did it first.



Rather than try to put a fitting somewhere in the circumference of the bore, I chose to replace the screws that hold the drum end cover on… with ¼-28 zerks.

I drilled and tapped the old holes in the end support to ½” depth (this is a blind hole).

Then I drilled out the screw holes in the plastic cover to ¼” dia. so the zerks would pass through.


Drilled 1/8” holes 180 degs. apart at an upward angle until they just broke through into the newly tapped holes. Do this with the new bushing in place so the holes will match up.






Put a small amount of silicone on the Zerk threads and tighten down lightly.

Done!



For best lubrication...you’ll want to spool the drum in or out a few revolutions while greasing the bushing. This will help spread the grease evenly.

[flintknapper]

O.K lets get started putting the lower end back together.

First we’ll want to reconnect the drum to the lower housing and main gear.

Before we do this, we will need to install the Thrust Washer and Seal (if previously removed).

It is important that the T-Washer be installed as shown below (with lip facing the housing). The Seal is symmetrical and can not be placed on incorrectly.



“Lightly” grease the Seal and Thrust Washer just prior to installing the drum.

[flintknapper]

The drum when inserted in the case…is held in place by a “lock-plate” (as is the main shaft). Here you can see the lock-plate and the groove that it fits into.

[flintknapper]

If you removed your main gear for any reason, it is important to note the correct orientation when reinstalling.

You may be tempted to place it back in the case so that it fits on the drum like in the photo below. This is INCORRECT. Note the difference in the height of bosses on the gear.



Below is the CORRECT position of the main gear. If you did not remove the gear upon disassembly/inspection then disregard and go on to the next step.

[flintknapper]

Place the housing on it’s side, orient the main gear so that it is roughly centered with the bushing bore.



As the drum is inserted… rotate it slightly until you can feel the splines of the drum mesh with the gear. Continue to push downward until the drum is fully seated in the case.

Now turn the assembly back upright and you should be able to see the lock-plate groove on the drum.

[flintknapper]

If you did not remove the intermediate gear and main-shaft, then simply push the lock-plate down into position, reinstall the drum support (after greasing the bushing) and you’re done with the lower end.










If you DID remove your intermediate gear and main-shaft I can post pics of how to reinstall it along with the bronze bushing and seal.

I have pics of the the upper housing, motor and clutch reassembly ready, but I’m too tired to post it all tonight. So be patient…and I’ll get them done soon.

[flintknapper]

O.K.,

Threw the top on her today and then bench tested.

I highly recommend you “bench test” your work before sealing up the case halves and reassembling the brake mechanism.

Here I just loosely fitted the solenoid pack and put the top on (without silicone) to test.



Everything went well….so I buttoned it up with sealant and installed the solenoid pack for good.



All I lack now is the brake mechanism (saved the fun part for last).

[flintknapper]

Just for fun, here is what the solenoid pack should look like (on older models).

From the front:



From the top:



From right:



From left:

[flintknapper]

Here’s a little trick to make accessing the solenoid pack easier.

“Slot” the three screw holes (2 on top, one on bottom) so you don’t have to fiddle with removing the screws.

Poor connections are the most common source of problems with this winch, clean them from time to time.

[flintknapper]

I probably won’t document the reassembly of the brake system… as it has been adequately covered by another gentlemen.

Warn 8274 rebuild

If anyone wants detailed pics. of the upper end, bushings, seals, gear relationships, etc… let me know.. and I will post here.

I have pics of nearly all of it. I have posted only what I thought would be the most beneficial to other folks.

I will post the finished product in a few days.

Hope this helps.

[D'Animal]

Did you beadblast or sand blast your housings and your ground straps on the solenoids? They look extremely clean.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by D'Animal

Did you beadblast or sand blast your housings and your ground straps on the solenoids? They look extremely clean.

Yup.

Far and away the easiest way to clean up electrical connections is to bead blast.

Every part (gears, case, screws, etc..) on the winch was cleaned in my parts cleaner and then bead blasted. The case parts were then treated to two coats of "Plasti-Kote #282" cast aluminum enamel. It's a high temp (500 deg.) rebuilders paint, very resistant to oil, etc...

I topped it with a single pass of matte clear coat. The finish (to me) looks better than the factory "raw" finish.

The clutch knob was sprayed with "Plasti-Dip", the motor was done in gloss black epoxy, the solenoid cover in semi-gloss plastic paint.

All of this for aesthetics of course. It serves NO purpose in terms of function.

I put 12 ozs. (not 6 as recommended by Warn) of synthetic gear lube in the case (75% GL and 25% MMO). That brought the level up to just about the bottom of the drum seal, maybe a little past. It hasn't leaked so far.

When I'm done, I'll take one final pic. in some "proper" light. Fluorescent is hard to work under.

[Blue77FJ40]

WOW. Incredible job, both on the rebuild and the detailed article. Thanks!

Any thoughts on drilling the mainshaft end to accept a bolt? There have been tales of the brake assembly flying off along with the ball bearings when the split ring lets go. Gigglepin sells a kit for this, already machined.