Y-link VS true 3-link? (1 Viewer)

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The front end of the FJ80 in stock form just doesn't move freely enough. I like the way it wheels with the poor-man's 3-link (hitch-pin mod), just am not comfortable with the strength and on-road handling of that.

I'm starting to fear that a true 3-link MAY be a little too much flex (yes, it can be limited with shocks/chains/straps). Would well-built Y-link with high quality joints and long control arms make a difference?

What are some advantages of either that I might not have thought of yet? Down falls?
 
your stock suspension is essentially a Y link or radius arm setup. By removing the bolt you are creating a "wristed" arm setup.

If you lengthen the arms it will help. But a true 3 link would be better IMHO.
 
I thought you need to loose something in the way to get more flex .. ability. So mod your stock arms in a permanent way givo you more flex .. but less on road manners ...

The pin mod give you the chance to run on road complete stock .. and get better flex offroad. So An idea that comes to my mind it's make a 4 link, and get on off the uppers quick disconect .. ?
 
why dont you just cut off one side of the stock radius arm bracket and move it out 1/4" and reweld it in place. then add a 1/8" narrow diameter washer to both sides of the bushing and bolt it up. why more people havn't done this I do not know.

A radius arm set up like that on long arm jeeps is certainly more supple than the 80 series design because there is another joint where the "y" comes together to add a little more misalignment potential.

before i 3 linked my rig with 1Tons I considered doing a 3 link to the yota axles. I considered simply cutting off the oe arms right between the 2 axle side bushings. throw away the outer most bushing and leave the other bushing bolted to the axle bracket. now cut the front part of the axle bracket off for a better look.


now weld a low bracket above the pumpkin (you could keep it low because if you leave the oe axle brackets where they are you dont need the upper pumpkin link to be very high as the axle links are so low) and a second bracket on the frame rail. connect these 2 brackets with a link. done. before you weld the frame side link to the frame set up your pinion angle. instant 3-link. use a good stick welder so its easy to manuever and you could weld the link tower to the pumpkin with the axle still under the truck. you could build this 3 link before lunch on a saturday. no geometry to mess with or anything. you could probably use a spare rear lower link for the 3rd link if you get the pinion angle right the first time. but you could use castor correction bushings to adjust the pinion

i tried the pin mod but hated the banging noise made by the loose link
 
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